I'm not sure due to the unique mounting design and specific fitment of the calipers you might be stuck with calipers from a 86-93 bronco, E150, F150 & that's it without serious fabrication. Though perhaps at that stage a solid axle swap might be easier relatively speaking.

 

Consider upgrading your hydraulic boost instead of your calipers.

 

Flush out the brake fluid as well, If you have old fluid it can absorb air over time and give other issues like a weak brake pedal.

 

Brakefluid is hydroscopic. Which means it has the ability to absorb water, not air. But what happens is, as the fluid gets older, it absorbs enough water that when the fluid gets hot, the water will actually boil off because water has a lower boiling point than brake fluid. Once the water boils off to a gas it become's traped in the system giving you a spongy pedal. You should flush your brake system every 2 years to prevent this.

 

I know all about brake fluid and systems I just wanted a better caliper like a dual piston. WHat about these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRE-33701/

 

I'm trying to figure out what other fords I can swap calipers with that have(duh) better calipers. I was thinking Ranger calipers, they have dual piston calipers and when I drive it everytime I stop it's like hitting a guardrail. My Bronco is an 88

Okay, what exactly does that mean? Are they locking up? Pulling to one side? Pedal too hard? Pulsing Pedal? I've never hit a guard rail so I suppose I don't have the proper frame of reference.:shrug

I'm not saying that there isn't a direct replacement caliper for the TTB, but if there is I've never heard of it. I think you're just going to have to correct whatevers wrong with the brakes you already have. I'd start with pulling the calipers and inspecting the pistons to make sure they're stroking smoothly, no torn boot, and when you reinstall them grease those retention pins. While they're off inspect the rotor to make sure that it's still flat, not scored, and it's not worn too thin. Inspect the pads to make sure that they are not glazed over or excessively cracked and they have enough friction material left. Uneven wear of the pads between the front and back of a rotor can be a sign of trouble also. When you put it all back together go ahead and bleed the brakes. Bleed the rear brakes first, then the ABS valve, and then the front calipers last. I'm not saying that will definitely fix your problem, but it is good maintenance to do and it should allow you to find the problem if you do indeed have an issue with your calipers. If you do all of that and still have an issue, it's on to the master cylinder/booster/pedal assembly, or the rear brakes. Or the ABS valve....

 

First off, get some good pads in there. the cheap oreilly lifetime warranty shit doesn't cut it.

Also, piston number means NOTHING. It is piston surface area that means everything. The 78 Thunderbird caliper is a single piston unit that fits out trucks (with some work) and has more potential power than the dual piston calipers in the F350s

 

TBird calipers work great but if you calipers use the triangle shape with rubber in them for mounting it may not me doable for you. Check the Tbird thread in the tech articles. I used banjo fitting style hoses and still had to grnd on my knuckles.

 

you can try upgrading to an f350 brake booster and master cyl. along with f350 rear wheel cyl. this has been done numerous times on FSB