Newbie here and I am looking for advice. My '95 XLT 5.8 began to running choppy and was stalling. I downloaded codes 332/334, so I then replaced the EGR valve, and the EGR position sensor on the top of the valve. The nut on the old EGR was a PIA to get off, and I ended up heating with a torch and persuading it off with a 1 1/16" wrench. I thought I had not twisted the tube, but I noticed that it was broken by the "bellows". Tried to get the wrench down on the nut on the other end but absolutely no room to try to move it. I have vacuum, but am still pulling 332/334 with it running bad. Do I try to replace the EGR tube? Can I just install a hose over the break? Does a EGR Delete kit help me? Can I just get by with capping off the green vacuum line? I've read all kinds of threads on this but it seems to be all over the place.
SteveG123
id check vacuum lines, and id you clean the port while you had it off?
that tube is a pita. and ive bought some from ebay that were too short.
that tube is a pita. and ive bought some from ebay that were too short.
Yo Steve,
Welcome to our Big Bronco DIY Community!
See EGR Tube replacement in a 96 by member Chris Czaja @ 1996 5.8 Code 401 ‘D’oh’
Excerpts;
"New EGR tube came in and I got it swapped out yesterday. In total I spent around 2 hours messing around with it, mostly with the torch trying to apply enough heat...
...pulled the battery out and put the alternator off to the side to access the tube. If I were to do it again I’d also pull the vacuum reservoir out for more range with the wrench, but managed fine regardless.
... The old tube was falling apart so I first cut it at the bend to give me more space and get the wrench on easier. Even red hot I was not able to budge the nut so I ended up using an oscillating tool with a metal cutting blade for a relief cut. What worked best was carefully cutting the flared end of the EGR tube on the top and bottom to break the seal. I was then able to pull it off with the 1 1/4” wrench.
and in goes the new one, much quicker than it came out:"
●
EGR Tube is available @ HOME | pollutioncontrol2
●
ASAP, find out if speed control recall work, if equipped was completed. If you still have concerns about Recalls, please contact the Ford Customer Relationship Center:
US: 800-392-3673 | CA: 800-565-3673
Note: 3673 spells "FORD" on phone keys
For the hearing- or speech-impaired: Please contact the Telecommunication Relay Service by dialing 71
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
1995 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ 1995 Ford Bronco
1995 Bronco Drivetrain, Powertrain Service Manual - Google Drive
The eight Groups found in this manual are:
00 - Service Information
02 - Engine and Transmission Mounting
03 - Engine
05 - Driveline
07 - Transmission
08 - Clutch
09 - Exhaust System
10 - Fuel System
Each Section covers a component or system. The second set of numbers on each page
indicates the Section.
If the vehicle has more than one type of component, such as two types of engines or power
steering systems, alphabetical suffixes are used.
&
1995 Bronco Chassis, Service Manual - Google Drive
To switch between folder list & grid views, click the button to the right of the "DOWNLOAD ALL" button in the upper right corner of the window) by HawkDriver
The twelve Groups found in this manual are:
00 - Service Information
01 - Body
02 - Frame and Mounting (Body)
04 - Suspension
06 - Brake System
11 - Steering System
12 - Climate Control System
13 - Instrumentation and Warning Systems
14 - Battery and Charging System
15 - Audio Systems
17 - Lighting
18 - Electrical Distribution
Each Section covers a component or system. The second set of numbers on each page
indicates the section.
If the vehicle has more than one type of component, such as two types of engines or power
steering systems, alphabetical suffixes are used.
Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via BroncMom!
For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (50 non-padded posts required to participate, due to scammers who preyed on our members).
Our Forum FAQs includes for example, How to:
Post images
Save (Bookmark) Threads Or Posts
Search The Site
What is the Difference Between the Showcase and Gallery
How To Find Subscribed Thread and more tips
See How to add your 95s Signature @ Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum by BigBlue 94
➡ Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)
... Includes such as, How do I fix my back window?
Take time to participate in our Full-Size of the Month & later in the new year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing.
Prizes are awarded to the winner!; a full spread in Bronco Driver Magazine is the top prize, in addition to a years subscription, once the article is submitted; and a years worth of premium FSB membership.
Al
Welcome to our Big Bronco DIY Community!
See EGR Tube replacement in a 96 by member Chris Czaja @ 1996 5.8 Code 401 ‘D’oh’
Excerpts;
"New EGR tube came in and I got it swapped out yesterday. In total I spent around 2 hours messing around with it, mostly with the torch trying to apply enough heat...
...pulled the battery out and put the alternator off to the side to access the tube. If I were to do it again I’d also pull the vacuum reservoir out for more range with the wrench, but managed fine regardless.
... The old tube was falling apart so I first cut it at the bend to give me more space and get the wrench on easier. Even red hot I was not able to budge the nut so I ended up using an oscillating tool with a metal cutting blade for a relief cut. What worked best was carefully cutting the flared end of the EGR tube on the top and bottom to break the seal. I was then able to pull it off with the 1 1/4” wrench.
and in goes the new one, much quicker than it came out:"
●
EGR Tube is available @ HOME | pollutioncontrol2
●
ASAP, find out if speed control recall work, if equipped was completed. If you still have concerns about Recalls, please contact the Ford Customer Relationship Center:
US: 800-392-3673 | CA: 800-565-3673
Note: 3673 spells "FORD" on phone keys
For the hearing- or speech-impaired: Please contact the Telecommunication Relay Service by dialing 71
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
1995 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ 1995 Ford Bronco
1995 Bronco Drivetrain, Powertrain Service Manual - Google Drive
The eight Groups found in this manual are:
00 - Service Information
02 - Engine and Transmission Mounting
03 - Engine
05 - Driveline
07 - Transmission
08 - Clutch
09 - Exhaust System
10 - Fuel System
Each Section covers a component or system. The second set of numbers on each page
indicates the Section.
If the vehicle has more than one type of component, such as two types of engines or power
steering systems, alphabetical suffixes are used.
&
1995 Bronco Chassis, Service Manual - Google Drive
To switch between folder list & grid views, click the button to the right of the "DOWNLOAD ALL" button in the upper right corner of the window) by HawkDriver
The twelve Groups found in this manual are:
00 - Service Information
01 - Body
02 - Frame and Mounting (Body)
04 - Suspension
06 - Brake System
11 - Steering System
12 - Climate Control System
13 - Instrumentation and Warning Systems
14 - Battery and Charging System
15 - Audio Systems
17 - Lighting
18 - Electrical Distribution
Each Section covers a component or system. The second set of numbers on each page
indicates the section.
If the vehicle has more than one type of component, such as two types of engines or power
steering systems, alphabetical suffixes are used.
Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via BroncMom!
For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (50 non-padded posts required to participate, due to scammers who preyed on our members).
Our Forum FAQs includes for example, How to:
Post images
Save (Bookmark) Threads Or Posts
Search The Site
What is the Difference Between the Showcase and Gallery
How To Find Subscribed Thread and more tips
See How to add your 95s Signature @ Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum by BigBlue 94
➡ Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)
... Includes such as, How do I fix my back window?
Take time to participate in our Full-Size of the Month & later in the new year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing.
Prizes are awarded to the winner!; a full spread in Bronco Driver Magazine is the top prize, in addition to a years subscription, once the article is submitted; and a years worth of premium FSB membership.
Al
Yo Chris,
A vac leak could cause DTC 332 - Insufficient EGR flow detected
Listen for a hiss; check hose from EVP back to EVR
See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl some jowens126 HVAC Control Panel pics/info @ Help with dtc codes and idle
Excerpts: One way to do a quick check is to grab a vacuum gauge. Some parts stores will loan you a gauge with refundable deposit.
The vacuum gauge should read between 15 and 22 in-Hg depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed. SUBTRACT ONE INCH FROM THE SPECIFIED READING FOR EVERY 1,000 FEET OF ELEVATION ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
The reading should be quite steady. .
When engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to zero) reading. When throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.
When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost.
Possible Causes; "...EGR valve sticking closed
EGR valve diaphragm leaks
EVR solenoid sticking closed
Loss of vacuum to or from EVR
Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits
Continuous Memory DTC 332 indicates the EGR valve did not open with the engine stabilized and the EVR solenoid duty cycle present sometime during vehicle operation.
Possible causes: "...Obstructed or cracked hose to EGR valve,Icing, Damaged EGR valve, Damaged EVR solenoid harness..."
Source: by Ford via SigEpBlue (Steve)
DTC 332 "...Insufficient EGR flow detected. Atop the EGR valve there is a sensor called the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor. It detects movement of the pintle iside the EGR valve. You can apply vacuum to the vacuum barb on the EGR valve and observe through the holes in the casting whether the valve is moving or not. It may just be dirty which requires some careful scrubbing and NO SOLVENTS. Otherwise, if the EGR valve is functioning and moving when vacuum is applied, the EVP sensor is suspect and the electrical connections to it should be checked first. (Computer needs to know the EGR valve position for emissions control)..."
Source: by greystreak92 (Joe B)
DTC 332 & Possible Causes; "...EGR valve sticking closed EGR valve diaphragm leaks EVR solenoid sticking closed Loss of vacuum to or from EVR Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits ..."
Source: by latechsho at Super High Output
Testing; "...There shouldn't be any vacuum at the EGR valve at idle or any time your ass is under the hood fiddling with it, to put it plainly, except for perhaps a very light residual vacuum from the EVR. Check ALL of your vacuum lines FIRST, and the vacuum reservoir for leaks..."
Source: by SigEpBlue
EVR TESTING; "....check the filter on the solenoid. If this is clogged it will inhibit the venting of the solenoid; "...EVR Solenoids should be 20 to 70 ohms (100 to 135 ohms for 7.5L engines). A functional test can be performed on most applications by using a Scan Tool. Enter the Output State check and cycle the accelerator pedal. This will turn all the solenoids on and off. Using a DVOM monitor the voltage at the EGR solenoid(s). They should toggle from a high voltage to a low voltage. Typically this is stated in the manuals and scan tools as above 10.5 volts to below 2 volts. If the voltage does not toggle make sure that you have system voltage on the power side of the connector. If system voltage is present and the voltage does not cycle to the low side check the connector and wiring to the PCM. If the wiring and connector are okay the problem may be in the pin at the PCM or the driver in the computer itself..." by Tomco.
======
EVP Testing & Replacement @
EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor Testing & Replacement by Seattle FSB
●
DTC 334 EGR (EVP) in either KOEO = Key On Engine Off, or CM = Continues Memory, or KOER = Key On Engine Running indicates a closed valve voltage higher than expected; "...Failed sensor, & as rla2005 (Randy) wrote; carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the flange side of the EGR by mouth. the egr is not closing properly which can cause detonation. remove the egr and clean off any carbon built up on it with carb cleaner and a brush if necessary. The EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor used exclusively by Ford, can be the cause of driveability problems without ever setting any trouble codes. The relationship between the EVP sensor and the EGR valve is important to understand. Either one being out of spec can cause similar symptoms. Understanding this relationship will help you to diagnose uncoded driveability problems like stumbles, hesitations, rough idles and stalling..."
Source: by rla2005 (Randy) at FSB
Testing; "...There shouldn't be any vacuum at the EGR valve at idle or any time your ass is under the hood fiddling with it, to put it plainly, except for perhaps a very light residual vacuum from the EVR. Check ALL of your vacuum lines FIRST, and the vacuum reservoir for leaks..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
A vac leak could cause DTC 332 - Insufficient EGR flow detected
Listen for a hiss; check hose from EVP back to EVR
See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl some jowens126 HVAC Control Panel pics/info @ Help with dtc codes and idle
Excerpts: One way to do a quick check is to grab a vacuum gauge. Some parts stores will loan you a gauge with refundable deposit.
The vacuum gauge should read between 15 and 22 in-Hg depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed. SUBTRACT ONE INCH FROM THE SPECIFIED READING FOR EVERY 1,000 FEET OF ELEVATION ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
The reading should be quite steady. .
When engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to zero) reading. When throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.
When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost.
Possible Causes; "...EGR valve sticking closed
EGR valve diaphragm leaks
EVR solenoid sticking closed
Loss of vacuum to or from EVR
Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits
Continuous Memory DTC 332 indicates the EGR valve did not open with the engine stabilized and the EVR solenoid duty cycle present sometime during vehicle operation.
Possible causes: "...Obstructed or cracked hose to EGR valve,Icing, Damaged EGR valve, Damaged EVR solenoid harness..."
Source: by Ford via SigEpBlue (Steve)
DTC 332 "...Insufficient EGR flow detected. Atop the EGR valve there is a sensor called the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor. It detects movement of the pintle iside the EGR valve. You can apply vacuum to the vacuum barb on the EGR valve and observe through the holes in the casting whether the valve is moving or not. It may just be dirty which requires some careful scrubbing and NO SOLVENTS. Otherwise, if the EGR valve is functioning and moving when vacuum is applied, the EVP sensor is suspect and the electrical connections to it should be checked first. (Computer needs to know the EGR valve position for emissions control)..."
Source: by greystreak92 (Joe B)
DTC 332 & Possible Causes; "...EGR valve sticking closed EGR valve diaphragm leaks EVR solenoid sticking closed Loss of vacuum to or from EVR Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits ..."
Source: by latechsho at Super High Output
Testing; "...There shouldn't be any vacuum at the EGR valve at idle or any time your ass is under the hood fiddling with it, to put it plainly, except for perhaps a very light residual vacuum from the EVR. Check ALL of your vacuum lines FIRST, and the vacuum reservoir for leaks..."
Source: by SigEpBlue
EVR TESTING; "....check the filter on the solenoid. If this is clogged it will inhibit the venting of the solenoid; "...EVR Solenoids should be 20 to 70 ohms (100 to 135 ohms for 7.5L engines). A functional test can be performed on most applications by using a Scan Tool. Enter the Output State check and cycle the accelerator pedal. This will turn all the solenoids on and off. Using a DVOM monitor the voltage at the EGR solenoid(s). They should toggle from a high voltage to a low voltage. Typically this is stated in the manuals and scan tools as above 10.5 volts to below 2 volts. If the voltage does not toggle make sure that you have system voltage on the power side of the connector. If system voltage is present and the voltage does not cycle to the low side check the connector and wiring to the PCM. If the wiring and connector are okay the problem may be in the pin at the PCM or the driver in the computer itself..." by Tomco.
======
EVP Testing & Replacement @
EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor Testing & Replacement by Seattle FSB
●
DTC 334 EGR (EVP) in either KOEO = Key On Engine Off, or CM = Continues Memory, or KOER = Key On Engine Running indicates a closed valve voltage higher than expected; "...Failed sensor, & as rla2005 (Randy) wrote; carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the flange side of the EGR by mouth. the egr is not closing properly which can cause detonation. remove the egr and clean off any carbon built up on it with carb cleaner and a brush if necessary. The EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor used exclusively by Ford, can be the cause of driveability problems without ever setting any trouble codes. The relationship between the EVP sensor and the EGR valve is important to understand. Either one being out of spec can cause similar symptoms. Understanding this relationship will help you to diagnose uncoded driveability problems like stumbles, hesitations, rough idles and stalling..."
Source: by rla2005 (Randy) at FSB
Testing; "...There shouldn't be any vacuum at the EGR valve at idle or any time your ass is under the hood fiddling with it, to put it plainly, except for perhaps a very light residual vacuum from the EVR. Check ALL of your vacuum lines FIRST, and the vacuum reservoir for leaks..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB
Yo Steve,
"Remove the EGR for a cleaner look and cooler intake air. The EGR system adds heat and carbon deposits to the intake manifold. EGR Valve Position Sensor Eliminators send a 0.50volt CLOSED EGR signal to the computer. The computer then knows the EGR is permanently closed. Keeps the annoying CHECK ENGINE light OFF, and more importantly keeps the engine running smoothly. Guaranteed to work on any 1986-93 5.0L Mustang! Also works on most 1986-95 Ford that uses the Light Gray EGR valve position sensor; which has a closed reading of 0.24 – 0.67 volts. Without this the computer will assume the EGR is stuck open when removed, causing a rough running engine. We can't guarantee these will work on every 1986-95 Ford, but the only other option is a custom chip for the computer, which typically costs $350 or more. While the only option for 1996 and newer Fords is a custom tuned chip for the computer."
Disconnect EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP), and inspect the harness connector. Make
sure it’s free of corrosion and still has dielectric grease on the terminals.
Plug the Eliminator into the EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP) harness connector.
Zip tie the eliminator to the engine to protect it from vibration.
This product only eliminates the EGR electrically. Please take the time to remove and cap off
vacuum lines. If you are leaving the EGR valve on the intake confirm that it is fully closed. A
leaky EGR will cause more engine problems. It’s best to remove the EGR spacer, or put a
block off plate over the opening.
When performing computer Self-Test after installing this kit it is normal to get code:
33 / 332 EGR valve opening not detected.
The computer is acknowledging that the EGR is permanently closed. This is your desired
result. However if you get the following codes:
31 / 327 - EVP circuit failed below the closed EGR limit of 0.24 volts
32 / 328 - EVP circuit failed below the closed EGR limit of 0.24 volts
34 / 334 - EVP circuit failed above the closed EGR limit of 0.67 volts
35 / 337 - EVP circuit failed above the open EGR limit of 4.81 volts
Check your connection again; make sure there is no resistance in the harness.
NOTE: This device is not intended for pollution controlled vehicles. Local, State, and Federal
laws may prohibit the removal or disabling any emission control device on any emission
applicable vehicle. in Eliminator Installation Manual
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) Wayback Machine
Let's try this for 558; lot of Ford's PCED/EVTM pin-point testing revolves around the Break-Out Box settings, so, as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the break-out box, go to the EEC connector pin instead; Substitute EEC connector pin Number for breakout box number.
![Image]()
EEC IV Connector Pin LEGEND Bronco & Ford Truck & Van: 4.9, 460, 5.0, 5.8;
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection
"...DTC 558: indicates a failure in the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid circuit/Damaged EVR solenoid; Open harness, Shorted harness, Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM). ;
Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 at the breakout box and EVR circuit at the EVR solenoid vehicle harness connector. Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
No - SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components.RERUN Quick Test.
Yes - GO to DN13.
DN13 CHECK EVR CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER OR GROUND. Key off. EVR solenoid disconnected.
Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pins 37 and 57 at the breakout box. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pin 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
No - SERVICE short circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. If DTC is repeated, REPLACE EVR solenoid.
Yes -REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT EVR solenoid. RERUN Quick Test.."
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at FSB
as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the breakout box, go to the EEC pin instead; for instance - Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pin 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box. Substiture EEC for :breakout box"
EEC Connector Pin Diagram & Overview by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Wayback Machine
EEC Connector Pin LEGEND, Bronco & Ford Truck & Van: 4.9, 460, 5.0, 5.8;
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection
****
In front of the TAB/ TAD Solenoids is the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR); also called EGR Vacuum Solenoid
It is a "normally closed" solenoid, which means that when it is de-energized, the position of the disc allows for maximum venting to the atmosphere (resulting in negligible vacuum flow to the EGR valve)
![Image]()
Location pic by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB)
The most common problem with the EVR is for its vacuum line to crack. Simply slip rubber vacuum line over the breakey
Static Resistance Values:
TAB/TAD: 50-100 ohms
EVR: 30-70 ohms
...
"Remove the EGR for a cleaner look and cooler intake air. The EGR system adds heat and carbon deposits to the intake manifold. EGR Valve Position Sensor Eliminators send a 0.50volt CLOSED EGR signal to the computer. The computer then knows the EGR is permanently closed. Keeps the annoying CHECK ENGINE light OFF, and more importantly keeps the engine running smoothly. Guaranteed to work on any 1986-93 5.0L Mustang! Also works on most 1986-95 Ford that uses the Light Gray EGR valve position sensor; which has a closed reading of 0.24 – 0.67 volts. Without this the computer will assume the EGR is stuck open when removed, causing a rough running engine. We can't guarantee these will work on every 1986-95 Ford, but the only other option is a custom chip for the computer, which typically costs $350 or more. While the only option for 1996 and newer Fords is a custom tuned chip for the computer."
Disconnect EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP), and inspect the harness connector. Make
sure it’s free of corrosion and still has dielectric grease on the terminals.
Plug the Eliminator into the EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP) harness connector.
Zip tie the eliminator to the engine to protect it from vibration.
This product only eliminates the EGR electrically. Please take the time to remove and cap off
vacuum lines. If you are leaving the EGR valve on the intake confirm that it is fully closed. A
leaky EGR will cause more engine problems. It’s best to remove the EGR spacer, or put a
block off plate over the opening.
When performing computer Self-Test after installing this kit it is normal to get code:
33 / 332 EGR valve opening not detected.
The computer is acknowledging that the EGR is permanently closed. This is your desired
result. However if you get the following codes:
31 / 327 - EVP circuit failed below the closed EGR limit of 0.24 volts
32 / 328 - EVP circuit failed below the closed EGR limit of 0.24 volts
34 / 334 - EVP circuit failed above the closed EGR limit of 0.67 volts
35 / 337 - EVP circuit failed above the open EGR limit of 4.81 volts
Check your connection again; make sure there is no resistance in the harness.
NOTE: This device is not intended for pollution controlled vehicles. Local, State, and Federal
laws may prohibit the removal or disabling any emission control device on any emission
applicable vehicle. in Eliminator Installation Manual
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) Wayback Machine
Let's try this for 558; lot of Ford's PCED/EVTM pin-point testing revolves around the Break-Out Box settings, so, as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the break-out box, go to the EEC connector pin instead; Substitute EEC connector pin Number for breakout box number.
EEC IV Connector Pin LEGEND Bronco & Ford Truck & Van: 4.9, 460, 5.0, 5.8;
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection
"...DTC 558: indicates a failure in the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid circuit/Damaged EVR solenoid; Open harness, Shorted harness, Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM). ;
Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 at the breakout box and EVR circuit at the EVR solenoid vehicle harness connector. Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
No - SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components.RERUN Quick Test.
Yes - GO to DN13.
DN13 CHECK EVR CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER OR GROUND. Key off. EVR solenoid disconnected.
Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pins 37 and 57 at the breakout box. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pin 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
No - SERVICE short circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. If DTC is repeated, REPLACE EVR solenoid.
Yes -REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT EVR solenoid. RERUN Quick Test.."
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at FSB
as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the breakout box, go to the EEC pin instead; for instance - Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pin 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box. Substiture EEC for :breakout box"
EEC Connector Pin Diagram & Overview by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Wayback Machine
EEC Connector Pin LEGEND, Bronco & Ford Truck & Van: 4.9, 460, 5.0, 5.8;
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection
****
In front of the TAB/ TAD Solenoids is the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR); also called EGR Vacuum Solenoid
It is a "normally closed" solenoid, which means that when it is de-energized, the position of the disc allows for maximum venting to the atmosphere (resulting in negligible vacuum flow to the EGR valve)
Location pic by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB)
The most common problem with the EVR is for its vacuum line to crack. Simply slip rubber vacuum line over the breakey
Static Resistance Values:
TAB/TAD: 50-100 ohms
EVR: 30-70 ohms
...
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