[JKossarides]

I have added them to my archives for life Brother, it was just one of those unfortunate things and timing for me but in the end it came out better. Giving up the tilt was no big deal I didn't even notice it today on the way to work, I might try to save it? This way now if the actuator goes out it's an easier fix.

Thanks, now on to my vacuum leak AGGGHHHHHH

 

[JKossarides]

I just took the wheel off and have it apart right now, I'm still stumped as to where the retaining clip is shown in the diagram. If anyone knows please let me know because the only place I think it could be is under the the turn signal cam? So I'm not sure if the collar housing comes off or not, I think it does because the rod and what part of the actuator I can see is just underneath it but I can't see how it's hooked. The last time I got that far I wasn't sure what I was doing or looking for.

However I did manage to figure out how to align the gear and cylinder lock so it functions in all 3 spots, Run, Off and Aux, somehow the last time I must have put it in offset and the key wasn't working this way. First when you put the little brass gear back in put a bit of grease on all of it or it will bind. It goes in with the single tooth bottom down to match the slot inside the collar housing, same for that washer keeping in mind that the rod is in the RUN position. The retaining pin underside of the key which releases the cylinder has to be pushed back in to slide the cylinder back in the track and once it seats then you can turn to Off and Aux and back to Off to make sure it's not binding. With cylinder in hand, if you turn the key you'll see the retaing pin move in & out but don't turn it too far but flat so you can slide it back in and it will lock in place.

I marked all 3 positions with chaulk on the column top and rod as reference so not to get confused. To remove the elbow block I used 1/4 socket and the block slide out but I couldn't get the spring loaded plunger out and this is where I stopped.

Also, the steering wheel and shaft have 2 types of alingment marks, a cut straight line on the shaft and steering wheel and a flat spot, left side of theshaft threading and steering wheel so you really can't screw that up when you putting the wheel back on.

I'll ckeck in 20 minutes if anyone has an answer OK?

Thanks ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

I went ahead and took the turn signal cam off and I don't see a small retaining clip inside the collar housing, the only retaining C clip I see is on the column shaft and those 3 screws. Last time I took all those off but the collar felt like it was locked on there, however on the left inside there is a a funny looking bar like thing, almost handle bar looking but verticle but it's associated with the chrome turn signal shaft the screws into the collar so to speak.

Other then that I can't see anything else.

Thanks ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

FYI,

Part OEM E-9TZ-3E715-B is correct for both TILT & NON-TILT steering columns up to 1996 along with part # 83280 (Dorman Mfg) available in the "Help" section of most auto parts stores each run around $10.00....

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

How's that working now Bro, call me......................lol lol

:banghead

 

[JKossarides]

Take off the black plastic cosmetic "column shroud" which usually has just one Phillips head screw underneath, now you can carefully spread, turn and rotate the shroud and it will come off exposing the ignition rod on top, OR drop the column by unbolting the alumnimum column support with the 6 bolts to remove the shroud.......either way, becarefull not to let the column drop or it will break the white cable for the PRNDDL selector needle in the dash dispaly.

Turn the key to "RUN" and with pliers drive the "rod" forward/downward and it will start the vehicle, the rod is attached to the actuator at the top and ignition switch located lower on the column......

You can also jump start buy using the "starter relay" over on the right inside fender by turning the key to "RUN" and then laying a screwdriver across the studs and it should start....this approach is very harsh on the starter relay IMO......avoid it......

Tell tale signs the "upper Ignition actuator" about to break or is broken.....if it becomes harder to turn the key where you have to rotate the key all the way over with almost nothing left to start, it's about to break but if you turn the key to "RUN" and the fuel ppms come on and nothing happens then it's already broken leavingyou with the above choices.

"Igntion Actuator Replacement on an '85 w/tilt" is the thread you need for DIY replacement, "search" for it and you'll find both the OEM and "Help" section part numbers which runs around $10.00 it's made of cheap pot metal....

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

On the igniton switch you'll notice it has 2 elongated "slots" and mounts on the lower column, (2~7/16" nuts) so it can be adjusted/timed up/down to match the timing WITH the upper ignition actuator, lower actuator and key cylinder "gear" so when you turn the key to "RUN" everything rotates at the same time to ultimately trigger the ignition switch to "START".......

Key cylinder "timing" is mentioned in the Haynes Manaul as well as www.broncolinks.com and you can see the "gear" already timed in that "Ignition Actuator Replacement w/1985 tilt thread" ....

Jump starting using the "starter relay" can be very HARSH IMO so be carefull not to burn it up, they're cheaply made you know.......

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

The gear inside the key cylinder slot has to be "timed" so you have all key functions ie: "RUN/START", "OFF/LOCK", "AUX".......

When you had it all apart and the "metal column collar" off you would have noticed that the "gear" mates with a "lower actuator" in it's own slot next to key cylinder which has a specific shape/design on it's end and will only fit into the center of the "gear/washer" one way.....the lower actuator has a loop and hooks on to the upper ignition actuator which has a little nipple...

Remember the key should be in the "RUN" position in order to remove the key cylinder and time it....

Now if you have the key cylinder out you'll notice inside the "metal column collar" there are tracks top and bottom for the key cylinder to slide into, I use a flat screwdriver head cocked in the center hole for placing the gear into position. With the snap ring off, washer and gear out, REPLACE the gear back in with the 3rd gear tooth on top counting in from right to left so that 3rd tooth lines up directly in the center of the top track....replace the washer, snap ring and put the key cylinder back in and all function should work....so when you rotate the key to "RUN/START" everything rotates forward to trigger the ignition switch......which is adjustable on the lower part of the column, also part of the "rod" timing/travel......as I mention before....


Go back and look at the first few pictures of the initial "1985 w/tilt" thread and you'll see when the key cylinder, snap ring and washer are out, the gear is "timed " correctly in the "RUN" position because it hadn't been removed yet, look where the 3rd tooth is positioned in relation to the top track ..:doh0715:

As for grinding off any cast imperfections on the new actuator that's ok but becarefull not to take too much off or you'll thin out the pot metal where it might break again, use grease to lubricate the gear, both actuators and the tracks etc. etc.....

Additional tech sources:
Haynes Manual
www.broncolinks.com
FSB member ~ Steve83

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

OK if you have all 3 key functions, RUN/START, OFF/LOCK, AUX then I would check the "ignition switch" lower on the column.

If you look at it you'll notice it has slightly elongated SLOTS allowing you to adjust it upwards or downwards to better time the "ignition rod travel" so you have correct key functions and that might help shut off the display otherwise you'll run the battery down......

That ignition rod has to be straight so it travels the correct distance and function properly with the ignition switch......it's a suttle, delicate balance and takes patience and practice to get the timing right for both aspects......I had the same problem myself when I did mine and it took me numerous times to get it perfect, trial and error.......PITA

Sometimes I still have to wiggle the column shifter a bit to get the display to come on and have AUX power for the windows when the ignition is off....PITA so I need to go back and revisit mine as well......:banghead

If this doesn't work, more then likely you'll have to "time" the gear again until it works right because there's no other way....

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

Keep in mind that the overall condition of the steering column itself comes in to play too, the older it gets the sloppier they tend to become inside from everyday use, unless you willing to pull it out and have it totally rebuilt you know...$$$....PATIENCE........lol lol

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

If you're in the process of replacing the "upper ignition actuator" the ignition key needs to be in the "RUN" position FIRST when you start and if the colunm shifter won't move, one reason could be that the broken piece of the actuator has slipped down a bit hanging up shifting ability so you'll need to get it out. Before I tore my column down for repair, I was driving along and apparently the broken piece moved forward and I couldn't turn the steering wheel all of a sudden.....YEE HAAA lots of fun...lol.lol so I had to reach around and push it back and then I ran a piece of wire in there temporarily to keep it from doing that again.

Once you replace the "upper ignition actuator" inside, check the Haynes Manual or www.broncolinks.com for a procedure to "syncronize" the column shift linkage with the transmission.

My 86 AOD has a very simple adjustment, with the key in RUN, column shifter in the D position so it can't move, loosening the linkage bolt and clicking the tranny TAB back/stop, then 2 clicks forward, place in P and key off.....done.

Some BKO's with different transmissions i.e. E4OD, C series etc. may have the same/similar adjustment or a solenoid below that can be checked etc. I'm not familiar so check, the end result will be the PRNDL is in sync with the tranny when you run thru the gears....over time and use things get loose and sloppy and this can be over looked...

In many cases this will eliminate a fault code: 67 - A/C or *NSS which many times is thought to be the culprit with starting issues...

I finally figured this out when I turned the key to RUN while in Park, my reverse lights would be on but if I jiggled the column shifter pushing up, sometimes for starting too they would go out..so the adjustment corrected both problems..

Make sure when you replace the actuator you "lube" the track it slides in AND there's one item in the "85" thread that isn't shown in any pictures, the" lower ignition actuator" this little guy slides into it's own little compartment in that metal column collar so in order to get it out the collar needs to be off, it has a loop on one end that goes to a tiny little nipple on the "upper ignition actuator" and mates with the brass "drive gear" where the key cylinder goes into so make sure you lube it and the drive gear as well.

The idea being when you turn the key to RUN/START ALL parts involved "ROTATE" forward simulataneously so the long metal ROD travels down and triggers the ignition switch lower down on the column....NOT one of Fords best designs IMO.....lol lol..

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

There should be an exploded view on www.broncolinks.com and the upper ignition actuator is used for both Tilt and Non-Tilt steering wheels so if an F150 is similar it should be ok but check for sure on broncolinks...

The part is available in the "Help" section for around $10.00, still made of crappy pot metal...lol lol....but what can you do...?

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

Many times when that actuator piece breaks inside it's loose with a tendancy to slide out forward and block the column shifter (PRNDL) and steering wheel to the point when you're driving you can't turn the wheel or move the column shifter...I had to run a piece of wire thru the front of the column collar (facing the dash) to keep it from moving forward until I could take the truck down and fix it...

Trying to shift with that blockage, the broken piece can get beat up, bent out of shape perhaps making it difficult to remove so I recommend using a "dental pick" used for teeth cleaning which I have to help skillfully remove it...if not then a drill may be needed to get a grip etc.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup


I guess I got in there late.....glad you go it sorted out Brother!

 

[JKossarides]

tyneet:

If you read thru this thread entirely it would have answered that question for you....the information is all here....:doh0715:


If indeed your "upper ignition actuator", OEM part # E9TZ 3E715 B is broken this part is used for BOTH Tilt and Non-Tilt (fixed) steering wheels....OK....:rofl:

However the only thing that's not shown in any of the pictures is the "lower ignition actuator" which is located inside the first metal column collar in it's own compartment and mates with the drive gear for key cylinder, it has a loop that attaches to the upper ignition actuator if you can believe that AND it only slides out from the front when that collar is off.

The idea of this system is that every part involved needs to "rotate" forward simultaneously when you turn the ignition key so the "rod" travels the correct distance downward to trigger the ignition switch lower down on the column at "START"...

Not the best OEM Ford design....IMO

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

This has probably been mentioned before BUT if you have a code: 67 - AC or NSS it might just be the column shift linkage is out of sync with the transmission. If you have starting issues, lifting the column shifter to start, reverse lights on in P there's a simple adjustment procedure regarding the column shift linkage BOLT and transmisison TAB you can perform and eliminate the starting issuse and fault code.

This only takes a few minutes to complete..

Check www.broncolinks.com under transmission section and Haynes Repair Manual and see what procedure applies to YOUR YEAR Bronco, some transmissions have "solenoids" controling shifting that may need to be replaced.


Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

I went from a Tilt to Non-Tilt steering column and IIRC I have a thread : Bronco Woes....BUT this thread will get you thru because the only real difference are the spring loaded "kunckles", the Tilt knuckle is larger then the Non-tilt knuckle because of the "release" mechanism where you push the turn signal lever foward for Tilt adjustment....however the "upper ignition actuator" part (E9TZ 3E715 B -$10.00, Help section or dealership)) is used in BOTH Tilt and Non-Tile steering columns.....at the top where the long "ignition rod" is attached to the actuator by a 3/32 x3/8" "roll pin" which costs around $.012 each so becarefull when trying to seperate it, it doesn't wind up flying across the room somewhere and you can't find it....lol lol....

Correct about the "key cylinder" having to come out BUT remember to turn the key to the "RUN" position in order to get it out, push up with a sharp tool in that little 'release" slot just below....

Tilt or Non-tilt the job is about the same degree of difficulty because the smaller spring loaded knuckle is equally as un-cooperative..lol lol...so an extra pair of hands may come in handy.

I think the hardest part is timing the "drive gear" inside so have all key functions i.e. RUN/START, OFF/LOCK and AUX....look at the first few pictures where the key cylinder is out and you'll see the brass "drive gear" is timed correctly because it hasn't been removed yet....*so counting from right to left, the 3rd tooth of the drive gear is postioned directly in the "middle" of the top key cylinder "track"....so when you go to put it all together that's where it needs to be positioned, then the washer and snap ring....it may take a few tries to get it right but the entire job usually doen't take more then 2 hours...but first attempts...lol lol.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

kingjason:

If you could post pictures here or on super motors that would be great, I didn't have an opportunity to make a video and post it on my "bronco woes" thread of the Non-Tilt "knuckle" so I'm sure it would be much appreciated AND take a picture of the "lower actuator" that's inside the 1st metal column collar which slides out from the front once it's off because it's not shown in this thread.....it sits behind the key cylinder and mates with the brass drive grear.

Thanks ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

I read here some FSB members had them made out of brass which is probably stronger but someone has to machine it and what does that cost.....?

I've only done mine once so far in 8 years, helped RickyB do his but what a PITA job...lol lol..it makes no sense to me that Ford would make such an integral part out of cheap pot metal for $10.00, dealership labor intensive I guess.....lol lol.

FYI: post #112 picture #5 at 2 o'clock you'll see that little silver block with the hole in it, this is where the spring loaded "lower actuator" is BUT in order to get it out you need to remove the first metal column collar and it slides out of the front from it's little compartment. The lower actuator mates inside with the "brass drive grear" and the end of the key cylinder, the washer and drive gear have that special shape in the middle.

The reason I point this out is that the no where in the begining original pictures does it show the "lower actuator" and it's important to know because this little guy is the spring tension when you turn the key to RUN/START so when the upper ignition actuator is about to break you'll find the ignition key gets harder to turn where you have to "rotate the key" all the way over with little or nothing left to turn in order to START.

Every upper ignition actuator breaks off in the exact same spot...lol lol ..and looking at post #112, last picture you'll see the tiny holes where the long rod attaches to the actuator, that hole is for a 3/32 x 3/8" roll pin which costs of all about $0.33 each at decent hardware store and it's a BIATCH to get out or back in....lol lol....I have one MIA somewhere around on the garage floor when I replaced mine some time ago.

However, once you do this actuator replacement you won't ever forget how to it again....:thumbup


Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

Well at that moment you could have just turned the key to RUN, lifted the hood and jumped the "starter relay" on the 2 studs with a screw driver and it would have fired up. But that being said, you need to very becarefull driving when the upper actuator breaks inside that the broken piece doesn't move/slide forward a bit and hang up the steering wheel while driving where you can't turn the wheel...lol lol....nearly gave me a heart attack back then....lol lol..so I ran a piece of wire thru that area to keep it in place until I had time to tear it all down and replace it....

The other option for starting in that condition is to remove the black plastic cosmetic column shroud exposing the long "rod" on top, turn the key to RUN and with a set of pliers drive the rod forward/downward and it will fire up that way, it's less harsh on the starter relay which can easily burn up from jumping the studs.

In either case you still have key functions i.g. RUN/BUT NO START, OFF/LOCK and AUX.


Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

Yeah I know it's can be a real BIATCH, better just to tear it down right away and fix it you know...


Good Luck ~ :thumbup