If it wont do anything check the fuseable link on your passanger inner fender. It will be a black or gray heavey wire that will splint into 3 wires IIRC. Just feel it and see if it feels holow, if so first just splice it to see if it will start and if so replace it. Use a meter to see if you are getting power to the starter relay (do you hear it click?) if so its getting power. Check all connections and grounds, take them off, clean them, battery also. If everything checks out see if the starter is getting power with a meter while someone trys to turn it over. If it is then its a bad starter. This is the quick version. For a better detailed trouble shooting search, its all here. Good Luck.

 

heat soak?
i had it on mine. had to go with a PMGR and heat shields.

 

could the new starters heat soak in a matter of seconds/ hours? It makes sense for the one that it came with, but not the new ones.

Do I need a shim?

Sometimes it would start like their was an almost dead battery I 've searched and searched these posts . if anyone can point me to a particular thread I missed . I would be thankful

 

so what does the starter do once its "fried"? does it make a noise? not turn over at all? act like its kicking out?

 

Does the starter turn the engine over then stop working? Does it not work at all? Need a little better description of what it's doing.

 

I dont think it will heat soak in a day mine is doing it right now but i have a busted exhaust manifold and my ignition switch doesnt disengague unless i make it. but as far as shims if the original had no shims use no shims if it had 2 use to, thats what i have always been told. I have also bought two bad starters in one day but you got yours tested so that takes care of that theory. you can check all your cables and make sure theyre not burnt or cracked and grounding.

 

starter does nothing but spark - thats all ive seen today are sparks
my bro thinks he heard a slight click noise inside the starter when battery was hooked directly to starter and grounded to starter. But he only heard the noise once . It just sparks. Been reading for hours thought it was a bad cell in battery but my neighbor's jeep w/ our jumper cables just produced sparks when connected to battery - bypassed at relay and direct to starter. Is it my jumper cables arent big enough. theyre not the best but they're not cheap either.

I read about trying 2 sets of cables. Gonna try that and then.........

yeah no shims here- dont think thats it

 

starter does nothing but spark - thats all ive seen today are sparks

Something that obvious could easily be a wiring problem resulting in a dead short somewhere.

Statistically, it's not very likely that you got two bad starters in a row. It's more likely that a wiring issue in the BKO fried two good starters.

Occam's Razor and all that...
http://science.howstuffworks.com/innovation/occams-razor.htm

 

no, heat soak takes a while.. week at a minimum, IMO.

sparks. not good. sounds like an electircal problem to me. i'd start with relooking at all of the wiring / grounds.

 

is yor battery dead
?

 

tried 3 batteries, bro is out getting new + leads and have napa test starter again

 

if your putting jumper cables on and its throwing sparks, youve got something crossed.

 

you can also bench test a starter easily by using a battery and jumper cables (or a battery charger) connect the ground (black) to the mounting flange (where the bolts go) and then touch the positive (red) to the post where the positive cable bolts to it.
it shouldnt spark much at all unless the starter is bad.
it should engage the motor and push the gear out to engage a flywheel/ring gear

 

ok UPDATE - replaced all pos. leads and starter relay - now it cranked over slow like battery was low - but didnt quite start. Bro says that starter is drawing power even with the keys in his pocket. I have read some posts about the starter engaging all the time. Something with the ignition rod. My head hurts bad, but I am making progress thanks to yáll

 

pull the cover under the steering column 2 screws...then 2 bolts to undo the column ...the wheel will rest on the seat ..there you will find the ignition switch rod and wiring ithat module is adjustable with 2 nuts its on the top side of the column ...

 

After doing more research and remembering past incidents i.e. weak spring in key cylinder, I will just do the easier ignition cylinder replacement before the actuator arms. I have a new turn signal switch also ( not installed) because sometimes turn signals wont work, but if you put the hazards on then off the turn signals will work fine the rest of the trip. Cylinder does not always want to go back to run from start on it's own.

got rid of crappy clamp down type battery cables So I'm in better shape. and a new cable to starter

Starter is trying to go with keys in pocket , But now I am in much better shape than yesterday. thanks guys! Keep the hits comin! I'm gonna tear this bitch apart come spring but until then I need it daily.

ps Are all ignition cylinders created equal?

 

The FIRST thing you need to do is find out how/what is makeing power go to the starter at all times!!! Get a meter and check that starter relay on the fender to see if it has a blead! How many volts is going to the starter at all times (not while starting)?

 

gonna check the relay voltage w/o the ignition in the loop in the A.M. Just about there. Anybody recommend ignition cylinders?

EDIT : I figured out my starter issue I tested all the components many different ways. It turns out that my hot lead cable from the relay to the starter was bad even though there was 0 voltage drop and tested 0.2 Ohms. Everything was in specs, nothing made sense. For all those out there who swear by Ohms Law, well I have learned that things are not always as they seem. I am certain that changing the hot lead cable from the starter side of the relay to the starter was the fix to that problem.

 

i hope you have found your problem, but my money is still on Ohm's law opc1:

 

Checking resistance in a circuit(ohms law) isn't the best way to test its continuity. You can have one strand left and still get a low resistance reading.

Do a voltage drop test(like you said you did), but with the circuit in use and see what you get.

 

:stupid

New Cable Parts

 

sounds like solonoid......

 

I figured out the problem with the constant starter draw. It was not the ignition cylinder, but the relay. It was brand new from Napa. I came to this conclusion by removing the ignition wire from the starter relay; the starter was still drawing power. A couple whacks with the handle of a P2 Phillips to the relay corrected this problem, but now my battery is dead :\

 

I also have found that one of the commonly best solutions to so many problems, for some reason, seems to be a hammer, or at least a striking implement of some kind.

TV's, radios, computers, marriages... works every time.

 

napa relays are junk

 

nice store. cables make a huge difference that was my main issue. especially the negative cable. i work at Advance auto now and do a lot of battery testing and that is a very common problem and people don't wanna hear it

 

Was this Zombie thread resurrected just to dis NAPA parts, or to prop Advance Auto? - the problem was fixed months ago

 

went through my threads and realized I never posted the resolution

 

I had this issue once, turned out the cable coming from the starter relay down to the starter, had grounded out against my frame.