Step Eight:
Mount assembly to stock bumper mounts leaving hardware finger tight. Make sure to center the assembly between the frame rails as best as you can. Visually equal gaps at each end is sufficient.

Step Nine:
Mount the stock bumper to the new bumper brackets. You can set it to rest on the top edge of the brackets and then go underneath. A second set of hands would be safer and preferred. Ignore the cutouts in the images as this will be covered later.

Once you have all four bolts installed and barely snug. Come out from under the truck and center the bumper side to side. You can take measurements from fenders to bumper at consistent locations per side until you are content. Once centered, fully tighten all four bolts. I also marked these bolt locations with a sharpie to be able to repeat this position later when removing the shell.

Step Ten (if using longer lower brackets):
If using the extra support lower brackets that mount to the stock sway bar, bend them down and out of the way of the sway bar.

Step Eleven:
Place a jack and some sort of spacer underneath the center of the winch plate and jack up until the gap between the lower grill valence and the stock bumper is where you are happy. If need be, you can jump to the next step and tighten one side then reposition the jack to get the other side even.

Step Twelve:
Fully tighten all four bumper mounting bolts. I had no issues tightening all four nuts without putting a wrench on the bolt head. This is a benefit of using the flanged head bolts. Using a 3" extension will help with access.

 

Step Thirteen.:
Use the jack and the spacer to jack up the ends up the bumper until you are happy. This is why the lower bracket has slotted holes and was kept somewhat loose. Once happy, tighten the rear two mounting holes to lock it in place. Repeat on the other side.

Step Fourteen (if using longer mount plates):
Using the jack and spacer again, jack up the rear of the longer brackets to the sway bar mount brackets. This will bend along the two cut bend lines. While in place, use a sharpie to transfer the stock mounting holes to this longer plate. Then using a welder, heavily tack weld each bend.

Step Fifteen:
Using a sharpie and the fairlead mounting holes, transfer the hole locations to the inside of the bumper shell. Then remove the bumper shell.

Step Sixteen (if using longer mount plates):
Remove the lower mount brackets (I marked the slotted holes beforehand) to fully weld the seams and drill out the mounting holes. I drilled them to 9/16" because I intended to use 1/2" hardware. (my welder was acting up on these so excuse the awful welds)

Step Seventeen:
Remount the the lower brackets to the winch plate and sway bar mounts. because I used larger than stock hardware, I match drilled them to 1/2"

Step Eighteen:
Drill the marked holes into the bumper shell. The fairlead mounts with M12 hardware. Using the fairlead and the hardware to locate, trace the fairlead perimeter and cut out the profile. This will likely need minor trimming during final assembly.

You could cut out the passthrough with some clearance built in and mount the fairlead directly to the bumper shell. This is not advised as the bumper is not designed for those kinds of loads.

Step Nineteen:
Mount the winch with the control box removed and mounting wires attached to the winch plate. Depending on where you mount the controls box, you may need to make custom longer wires. I used 0 gauge wire and opened up the wire passthrough slots as that is what I had on hand. I ran the wires through this opening to the left of the radiator. I plan to put something around the wires to prevent rub through.

 

Step Twenty:
Place the bumper roughly onto the mounts. Using a sharpie mark out the extents that the free spool lever will need to turn with about 1/2" of extra room. Also mark where the wiring cover is with again about 1/2" extra on each end. The wiring cover does not need to be cut all the way to the top of the bumper. I have images with a tape measure if you would rather match my dimensions. Cut the bumper based on your marks and test fit on the truck until everything fits and has clearance as desired.

 

Step Twenty One:
Reinstall the bumper shell one last time.

Step Twenty Two:
Install the fairlead through the cutout. Make sure you can easily see the nuts that were welded onto the winch plate. Visually inspect around the fairlead for collisions is the holes are not lining up and trim as necessary.

Step Twenty Three:
Mount your controls box where you have room and wire up the winch. I plan to mount mine where the stock charcoal canister and vacuum reservoir were as they have been deleted and this gives me close access to the battery.

Step Twenty Four:
You're done! Congrats on getting a stock bumper to fit over a 12K winch! Happy Winching!

 

If you want to purchase the files, hold off. I will be changing them from Etsy and significantly lowering the price.

 

Pretty sweet.

 

Just checking to see where you're at with reposting the CAD files.

colnago

 

Just checking to see where you're at with reposting the CAD files.

colnago

I wanted to post them on DIYoffroad but the team there have stopped responding to me so for now I just lowered the priced on Etsy instead. If you have any questions feel free to message me on Etsy as I will likely respond there quicker. If anyone wants both file sets I would sell the pair for $15 but I will need to make a custom listing for you so message me there for that as well.

 

You can now get them here 92-96 Ford Hidden Winch Bumper Brackets

 

Awesome skills man!