You've seen mine, right?

From Crazed's superford page...

 

built mine out of 2x4x.25 " rectangular tubing and 45'd the ends to assist with approach angle and welded it to the frame with 2x2x.25 boxed tubing

 

Mine are excatly like David's and I mounted my cage to them

2x2 main tube that is .250 wall and 1 3/4" x.120 wall outer tube

 

Basically David's design, like Crazed but lighter material for the "slide" portion and 1.5" instead of 2" thick so a bit less loss of clearance, same .120 tube outer:

 

anybody got measurments for the legs?

 

Mine are excatly like David's and I mounted my cage to them

pics of tie in to cage please

 

built mine out of 2x4x.25 " rectangular tubing and 45'd the ends to assist with approach angle and welded it to the frame with 2x2x.25 boxed tubing

pics?

 

Front cage to slider mount(now welded up)

Rear cage mount to slider

 

mine

I kinda change up the material depending on how they will get used on a particular rig. I use 2x2 box .120 wall up to .250wall and .120 wall outer 1.5"round tube. Mine have taken all the abuse I can throw at them and have held up great

I might add cage mounts to mine too but not sure on that yet.

 

Front cage to slider mount(now welded up)

how are the sliders tied into the frame? will those mounts hold in a rollowver?

 

how are the sliders tied into the frame? will those mounts hold in a rollowver?

The slider is welded to the frame and then welde to the cage mounts that are bolted throught the body. I have a 12 pt cage all together to the frame and I think it is definitely strong enough for what I do

 

My frame mounts grade 8 1/2" bolts...fine thread.

 

I have rectangular tubing bolted up under the door sill

Along with these bolted to the frame and welded to the rectangular tubing

Now they are yellow though :music0715

 

Dustin, how thick are your mounting plates? Also, did you use stainless tubing for the sliders on your truck? (So shiny and nice!)

 

Similar to Damagers: 3" tubing under the doors and bolted through the thickest part of the door frame, angle iron to the frame, and 1 1/2" square slider. These have held-up to several hard side hits and landings. Bottom view:

I siliconed 1/4 thick rubber on top which doubles as spash guard and step traction.

 

sliders, .120 wall, 1.5" tube, 2" square tube.

on the bronco

welded to frame and body

another picture showing the 2 leg support design. As well as showing the only dent I have gotten in the 1.5 year of wheeling on them.

 

No one has really said anything about this yet. From the research I've been doing, especially in Toyota forums, the hot mounting tip is to position the slider so the main rub rail sits about 1/8" to 3/16" below the body so it doesn't rumble when you're driving and the cab is moving around. That distance will still allow the rail to contact the body when you hit a rock without stressing the mounting pads and frame. Haven't done it yet, but that's how my sliders will be going in.

 

another picture showing the 2 leg support design. As well as showing the only dent I have gotten in the 1.5 year of wheeling on them.

Are these just butt welded to the frame or do you have a plate on there, too?

 

no plates.

 

the hot mounting tip is to position the slider so the main rub rail sits about 1/8" to 3/16" below the body so it doesn't rumble when you're driving and the cab is moving around.

Yeah, i tried to consider this when mounting mine. not sure how much my cab actually flexes with the frame mounted cage, but I know it does move some.

 

I have david built sliders..not mounted yet

i sprayed mine black then wrapped anti-skid from a C-130 around the round tube part (i swear the stuff is made with concreate)...need to redo the anti-skid though, didnt like how i origionally did it.

 

Ok, mostly finished mine up today. Still a few things I want to do, but no time before the next trip and have more important things to do before leaving.

I made these "Andy Skaar" sliders a long time ago. They are simply 2x3x.25 square tube, with end caps welded on. They get pushed up under the door sill, and three holes drilled from the top down. then tap the tube and whola, you have pretty good sliders that have gotten me through a lot of wheeling.

This is the best pic I could find.

and the top





The new sliders are made from 2x2x.25 square, round bent by dustin which is 1.5x.120, and the tie ins are a beefy 1.5x.188.

Tied into the cage frame mounts and one to the radius arm brackets. I plan to gusset where the cage/tie ins meet with some triangular gussets, and will also gusset where the spring hanger is. I dont like how much force can be applied to the spring hanger in the back,and welndmn swears these things can rip off the frame. So I think a simple mitered tube gusset should work fine.

My upside down welding definately leaves something to be desired.

 

My upside down welding definately leaves something to be desired.

could be the wire you are using, i know when i was welding my cage and sliders (flux cored) it was actually easier to weld upside down (minus the slag dripping thru my t shirt)

mine

cage tie in (front hoop)

 

Dustin, how thick are your mounting plates? Also, did you use stainless tubing for the sliders on your truck? (So shiny and nice!)

mounting plates are 3/16, nope thats just regular HREW tube that is really clean.

 

Yeah, i tried to consider this when mounting mine. not sure how much my cab actually flexes with the frame mounted cage, but I know it does move some.

A nudder option here is to do the opposite....since Plug had the andy scarr style (so did I before these), I put those holes in the body to good use....

My first trip out with my new sliders worked great. The area that pushed my door in without them, not the same story with the sliders on. They do their job in pushing you off stuff. However, I didn't count on having a root sticking out of the embankment actually push my sliders down away from the body (actually bent the mounting plates at the frame).

So, I reworked them by using the 3 holes in the body I previously had already from the andy scarr's. 2 bolts front and back have 7/16ths bolts going through and attaching to the slider body, and the center bolt has a rubber bumpstop cut to proper size. They now sit right against the bottom of the body and make no noise, and it would be difficult to pry them down again.

 

do you have pics of this?

 

How come Andy gets these named after him?

I used 3x3 on mine. Burned two holes through the bottom and drilled through the top of the tube so I could bolt them up tight. I used two half inch bolts bolted through.