[xombiechow]

i took it back off and made sure it was mounted correctly...tangs engaged as close to the bolt pattern as possible and then a slight turn CW. Put it back on and same issue. I'm bummed...not sure where a vaccum leak might be coming from. any suggestions?

 

[Teotwaki]

In addition to good tech info on the TPS this site covers all of the sensors

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/

 

[BigDonte]

I like to think that our lord Jesus himself gave us this site, full of wisdom and thorough write ups that only a heavenly being can produce...


Or, maybe it's just a site filled with kick-ass people :rockon

Did this today in under two hours (took a 15 minute time out to help wife with the baby). And for the record, I am below a novice in engine work. Again, another awesome write up. For anyone thinking they can save $1.59 and not buy the Throttle Body Gasket, it's a must. When I pulled the last bolt this is what crumbled out of the Body:

 

[ensmejon]

Bad TPS

Great Thread...

My Bronco 351W was bogging down towing my restored 1978 Sea Ray. It would not get above 3200 rpms with the petal to the floor? New Distributor, wires and plugs made no difference. I After reading this post I discovered the TPS was bad.

Last weekend I swapped out the TPS and immediately my acceleration was back and the rpms climbed back up to 4500. Looking forward to next weekend to get back out boating.

 

[Kiddles19]

Do i need to put a new TB gasket?

 

[Kiddles19]

srry didnt see BigDonte's post.

 

[jermil01]

Code 122 TPS below min voltage

I replaced my TPS a couple of weeks ago and thought my idle problems had been solved, what happened was went from an overly high idle to a low idle and now my rig acts like it wants to stall when going in reverse. Then today it threw a code 122.

Anyway, I decided to go through the steps on the thread and backprobed from before the connector to the sensor to check the voltage with the throttle closed and the key on..I expected to get something, but I didn't. No voltage at all. I tested the ohms on the TPS and they check out ok. I'm assuming the TPS itself is fine. Now I'm thinking I either have a bad wire somewhere or I didn't test it correctly. To backprobe, I used a push pin in the grey/white wire hooked to the positive on my volt meter then I put another push pin in the black wire and connected to the negative. I really don't want to have to tear into the harness. Any ideas?

 

[andysjunkymusic]

Okay, forgive me in advance if someone has answered this already and I missed it but, it's getting late and I've been reading TPS stuff for a few hours now.

I've got a '96 XLT. No starting or idle issues. It does seem sluggish on steep hills...like pedal to the floor and just making 55mph. Also, when speeding up from a dead stop it will occasionally stutter and when slowing down it will do the same thing (again only occasionally)...almost feels like the tranny but, everything I've checked says a bad TPS is most likely to blame.

Now, I've hooked up my code scanner but I'm not getting any alert codes and my check engine light is not on. As far as my scanner is concerned, everything's fine. I'll probably test my TPS tomorrow to be sure but have a couple questions.

My question are:

1) Is it possible to have a bad TPS and not get a code that would lead me to check it?

2) After replacing the TPS, when I go to replace the TB gasket do I need to do anything to it? Anything I need to put on the gasket or the TB?

3) Should I just replace the IAC and play it safe or can it be tested and/or cleaned?

4) Can you recommend brands/places to buy a new TPS and IAC?

I wouldn't say this is beyond my abilities but, I have a tendency to psych myself out about stuff like this so again please for give me lol.

Thanks in advance guys, you've been insanely helpful so far!

 

[TheUnforgiven]

1.) yes it is.
2.) just make sure the mating surfaces are nice and clean and free of any old gasket.
3.) you can replace it if you want. might not be a bad idea.
4.) ford would be best obviously, but you are going to spending big $$$.

also, the stuttering and lack of power, when was the last time it had a FULL time-up? plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, and air filter? and check the ignition timing.

 

[andysjunkymusic]

also, the stuttering and lack of power, when was the last time it had a FULL time-up? plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, and air filter? and check the ignition timing.

Honestly, I'm not sure. I bought the truck almost a month ago and am just about due for my first oil change. I figured a tune-up wouldn't be a bad idea too...just not sure of where to take it to have it done, or if I'm confident enough to do it myself...the only thing that would worry me is checking/adjusting the ignition timing.

 

[andysjunkymusic]

TheUnforgiven, since it's still cold here and I don't have a garage to work in I'll most likely end up taking it somewhere to have a full tune-up done. Is checking the TPS something I could have them do as well? Never had a tune-up on a car before...never really had a car I cared enough about to get them until the bronco!

 

[Iolaus]

TheUnforgiven, since it's still cold here and I don't have a garage to work in I'll most likely end up taking it somewhere to have a full tune-up done. Is checking the TPS something I could have them do as well? Never had a tune-up on a car before...never really had a car I cared enough about to get them until the bronco!

I had never done serious work on a car (beyond replacing body parts after an accident) before getting the Bronco either. Except for the problem of just getting at some of the spark plugs, the full tune-up is probably the easiest work you can do. Just have some complete directions, and it's pretty straightforward. :thumbup

...and with all due respect, unless you knew for sure when the last oil change was, and with what, you probably should have changed the oil as soon as you got possession of the vehicle.

 

[andysjunkymusic]

...and with all due respect, unless you knew for sure when the last oil change was, and with what, you probably should have changed the oil as soon as you got possession of the vehicle.

The guy worked at a dealership here and had them change his oil so there is a sticker on the windshield and he showed me their record of the oil change...otherwise it would've been my first stop after paying him!

 

[andysjunkymusic]

Okay, did a little pricing on parts for a complete tune-up. Let me know what you guys think of these and if you'd suggest something different!

K&N Fuel Filter

K&N Panel Type Cotton Gauze Air Filter

Fram Racing High-Performance Oil Filter

Accel Super Stock Ignition Wire

MSD Ignition Distributor Cap and Rotor Kit

Bosch Platinum+2 Spark Plug

With all that I'm at $202.37 plus the cost of oil.

Now outside of all that I'll still need to test my TPS to make sure it's still good. If it tests fine though hopefully the full tune-up and oil change with solve my problem.

Anything I missed? Any tips for me?

 

[Iolaus]

Okay, did a little pricing on parts for a complete tune-up. Let me know what you guys think of these and if you'd suggest something different!

K&N Fuel Filter

K&N Panel Type Cotton Gauze Air Filter

Fram Racing High-Performance Oil Filter

Accel Super Stock Ignition Wire

MSD Ignition Distributor Cap and Rotor Kit

Bosch Platinum+2 Spark Plug

With all that I'm at $202.37 plus the cost of oil.

Now outside of all that I'll still need to test my TPS to make sure it's still good. If it tests fine though hopefully the full tune-up and oil change with solve my problem.

Anything I missed? Any tips for me?

The word is that for spark plugs, the fancy stuff just causes problems. The cheapest Autolites or Motorcraft plugs are the most common recommendations.

If your going to do it yourself, you might want to take a look at this thread: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63592

It's gotten insanely long over the years, but there's some good recommendations and discussions in it.

 

[andysjunkymusic]

The word is that for spark plugs, the fancy stuff just causes problems. The cheapest Autolites or Motorcraft plugs are the most common recommendations.

If your going to do it yourself, you might want to take a look at this thread: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63592

It's gotten insanely long over the years, but there's some good recommendations and discussions in it.

Good call Xris. I've actually been checking that thread out for the last few minutes. Did some re-thinking of my "cart contents" and got the price down about $30-40! Now if I could just catch a break in the weather!

 

[SmokeBlower]

The truck with the chuggin problems:
1994 F350XLT 4DR 4x4 Dually 351W (HO cam, 1.7 RRs, LongTubes, True Duals, GT 40s P&P 1.9int/1.64exh

Action Items Completed:
Cracked long tube header: pulled and welded and re-installed.
Still chuggin.
Replaced the TFI module, swapped in a used IAC, new TPS installed (without removing the TB), replaced the coil, seperated all spark plug wires with seperators, plugs are new motorcraft plugs, new beldon 8 or 9mm plug wires, new cap and rotor, swapped out the fuel regulator, changed the fuel filter, checked the fuel pressure (excellent), checked spark on each plug at the plug (excellent), new air filter, new vacuum lines, disconnected and blocked off the thermatic air system........

Last Night:
I checked the 02 sensor. The 02 sensor was so loose that it was only halfway threaded in. I pulled out and cleaned with carb cleaner and re-installed it. It ran better but still had the issue.

I re-replaced the IAC with a brand new autozone special. Now the idle problem is completely gone, even if it is warm or cold or in gear or in neutral. Purrs like a kitten. The problem still exists when going down the road. When pressing the gas it CHUGS (JERKS) hard. Slowly press on the gas it runs fine. Until she gets up to 2k on the tach, then it jumps back and forth between 2k and 1.5k rpms. It continues to jump 500 rpms through the powerband. (example 3k to 2.5k, 3.5k to 3k, 4k to 4.5k) WOT it still chugs and I mean it jerks hard enough to give you whip lash.:toothless
So I ran the OBD 1 scanner with key on engine off and key on engine running. Here are the codes:
Tester said it is an 8 cylinder (yay)
33 - EGR Valve position error - it is not opening or closing properly
44 - Problem with smog system (its disconnected right now)
11 - system pass
53 - TPS- signal voltage is too high (indicating wide open throttle condition)
85 - canister purge solenoid circuit failure or transaxle problem or electronic control assembly (ECA) status: adaptive lean limit reached in fuel control program.
36 - I cannot find a code 36 definition
63 - TPS- Throttle Position Sensor signal voltage is too low.


Looks like the new tps is not working.
Another new TPS has been purchased and will be installed today. My truck has the adjustable holes (ovals not circles).
__________________
94 F350XLT 4DR 4x4 Dually 351W (HO cam, 1.7 RRs, LongTubes, True Duals, GT 40s P&P 1.9int/1.64exh
03 Expedition XLT- Family Mobeel
02 Mustang GT (BBK CAI, LongTubes, Pro5.0, Tokicos, BBK springs, 18in Saleens, x pipe and dumps)
94 F150 4x4 - Mud Truck Project -460,C6,44solid, Ford9in,4.56s, lockers, nitrous

 

[JKossarides]

For a 94 BKO it seems odd that it would have an adjustable TPS if I'm reading your thread correctly, most stores today only sell the "plug & play" style where the voltage setting is automatic once re-connected so no physical adjustment required.

In either case make sure that when installing a TPS, you manually open/close the TB blade or WOT = wide open throttle so it's shut then "engage the tangs" or little plastic bumps inside the spring loaded ring in the center of the TPS on the "end" of the throttle body shaft by simply placing the TPS in the palm of your hand and with slight CCW turn placing it on the TB shaft end then turning CW until the holes line up and you should feel some tension indicating you have engaged the tangs etc.

Failure to complete the installation this way renders the TPS basically useless, like being in neutral due to improper "blade angle".....still CLOSED at this point as the TPS can't move the TB shaft etc.

In the 7 years now that I've owned my BKO I've never actually seen an "adjustable" TPS using a multimeter for voltage setting......?

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[BroncoAZ]

Okay, did a little pricing on parts for a complete tune-up. Let me know what you guys think of these and if you'd suggest something different!

K&N Fuel Filter

K&N Panel Type Cotton Gauze Air Filter

Fram Racing High-Performance Oil Filter

Accel Super Stock Ignition Wire

MSD Ignition Distributor Cap and Rotor Kit

Bosch Platinum+2 Spark Plug

With all that I'm at $202.37 plus the cost of oil.

Now outside of all that I'll still need to test my TPS to make sure it's still good. If it tests fine though hopefully the full tune-up and oil change with solve my problem.

Anything I missed? Any tips for me?

In my experience the K&N oiled filters and mass air sensors don't get along well. When you put enough oil on the filter to make sure it will do the job it gets sucked onto the mass air sensor wire and causes a miss. Keep a good paper filter or find something with the Donaldson Powercore media.

Since going to diesel as my daily driver I've realized just how crappy the oiled filters are. The diesel will suck the oil off the filter, clogging the turbo, and the filters result in a higher silicon numner in the oil analysis.

Reading your post about the sluggish performance made me remember when my cat converter clogged up. It ran worse and worse until I couldn't go over 50 mph on the flat. After replacing the cat it ran great again.

 

[Chase24]

Thanks to everyone who contributed in this thread (and the Sea Foam thread). My Bronco runs sooooo much better now. I can actually get to high way speeds in less than a minute now!