Is that brake/clutch pedal assembly for your year truck? If not it wont work.

 

well that answers that question. they're from swats bronco which if i remember right is a 90. i've got a 93.

 

I can't tell...you do have a 92-96 pedal setup, right?

EDIT: Guess I type too slow...

 

nope...the pedal assembly came from a 90 bronco. i need a 92-96 pedal assembly. anyone got one? well i'm going to be scouring the junkyards here. there's a few open tomorrow. swat said he'd check out the ones in denver as well..thanks swat. if anyone has the pedal assembly i need and wants to get rid of it let me know. until then i'm going to put my truck back together and keep looking.

 

Get the right pedals and it will be easy. If you find a truck with the pedals grab the master cylinder too. I'm not sure the older ones match. Order the stainless hydraulic clutch line from Bcbroncos.com while it is apart you will thank us later.

 

thanks. i'll keep the line in mind. im looking for the pedals this weekend. so question...the big aluminum bracket...that stays in right?

 

so question...the big aluminum bracket...that stays in right?

Correct :thumbup

 

well worst case scenario lmc trucks sells the clutch/brake pedal assembly for $180...ouch....

 

ok cool. i'll put that back in today.

 

What is the differance in the two flywheel and clutches? I am in need of a set if your willing to part with one.

 

one's a centerforce and the clutch is a little bigger and the flywheel surface matches. the other one is stock size. the centerforce has a little more wear on it.

 

updates....got the correct pedals..installed them....and put the interior of my truch back together. it works again. haha. here's today's progress.....

-these are the correct pedals for the 92-96 bronco's for a manual swap....pulled these off a 93 f-150 at the junkyard.

and comparison of why you cant use the 87-91's...

obviously you can see they're two different types...that big aluminum bracket is in the way when you try and install the 87-91 on a 92-96.

something i liked that ford did on the 92-96's is include the clutch slave cylinder bracket into the clutch/brake pedal assembly. the 87-91 bracket is on the left. you may be able to use the slave cylinders from 87-91 on a 92-96 but you WILL have to redrill holes. something im glad i did while i was at the junkyard was pull the correct slave cylinder off the donor truck as well.

87-91 on top 92-96 on bottom.

all mounted up....

and getting put back together..

yes you will have to pull you steering column to swap the pedals. you'll also have to pull the big aluminum bracket as well. right now i have three pedals an auto tranny...if you run this set up like i am for the time being, you wont be able to shift into 1st gear on the auto. i'll be looking for a steering column from a manual but for now this will work. i'll post more as i complete more.

 

right now i have three pedals an auto tranny...if you run this set up like i am for the time being, you wont be able to shift into 1st gear on the auto. i'll be looking for a steering column from a manual but for now this will work. i'll post more as i complete more.

Sorry to keep hijacking...

What I did was just remove the column shifter and put a new "shroud" (donno the technical name)...the piece of plastic on the top of the column. It was like $20 for a manual trans one.

middle of the picture is the column shifter

 

ok zf is 4" shorter than e4od. 87-91 crossmember fits but will have to be redrilled to allow for bolts from radius arm brackets to poke through. holes for crossmember are in top of frame....problem is bolts are too long to fit between body and frame.....hmmm...lift body up an inch or two? or go without "extra" crossmember support...decisions decisions....rear driveshaft will have to be lengthened..or in my case since i have an old stock length one that's 3 1/2" longer i can use that...front drive shaft might still work...its still stock length even though i'm running 9" of lift....still need to buy a tranny jack....depending on how things go over the next few weeks this may happen really quickly.

 

Its only a hijack if its irrelevant information I can't use. In this case I can so its not. Its good advice. Thanks. Ill probably do that. The conversion has begun. Got a tranny jack. Unbolted the crossmember. Its still locked in on the frame rails. Disconnected the front and rear driveshafts and unbolted the housing cover in the cab. Oh yea...got one tranny bolt out too. Im calling it a night tonight cause its storming and my lil shop light isnt cutting it for brightness. Hopefully tomorrow will at least see the zf mounted in place.

i have somehow defied the laws of physics...fitting a 7'3" bronco in a 7' tall garage without breaking anything.....

and yes, i just moved in.

 

Sounds like you are making good progres on it, keep posting pics so I will know what I am in for. I have searched this several times and most of the threads on it didn't have a lot of pics.

 

i'll make sure to take plenty of pics tomorrow. i figured we all know what removed driveshafts look like but tomorrow i'll get pics of the floor pan, tranny removal, etc. i've been searching this for the past year just about. i found one really good thread that had lots of pics but didnt save it to my favorites....like an idiot. everyone else's seems to just show the tranny or the shifters so i'm trying to be as picture oriented as i can for anyone else who wants to do this or for when i need help.

 

Thats what I meant, there aren't very many detailed threads on the swap unlike doing a SAS where there are hundreds to look through. I found one or two but like you didn't save them either.

 

I'm in the middle of the same swap for a 1990...I have had a bear of a time getting the Trans installed. It just was not my day for this thing to get aligned. Probably doesn't help that I'm doing this the cheap skate way. motorcycle jack and blocks of wood...ha ha ...Well hopefully Ill have better luck in the morning.

Good luck to you bud

 

Probably doesn't help that I'm doing this the cheap skate way. motorcycle jack and blocks of wood...ha ha ...
Good luck to you bud

ive discovered..very painfully sometimes...that way doesn't usually work to well. i found a $200 tranny jack on craigslist for $100. the guy still had the instructions for it too. good luck to you. hopefully tomorrow things go better for you. with any luck tomorrow hopefully i'll have the zf resting in the truck.

 

Damn! :doh0715: I didn't think about a change in brackets. I bet you can sell them if you are willing to ship them. Good luck completing it, you are going to love granny!

 

thanks. yea, i'll ship the brackets to who ever wants them. i'm just going to love have a tranny i can rely on...granny is a plus!!! i figured out my crawl ratio with the zf....5.72x2.62x4.88=73:1!!! woohoo!! right about where i wanted to be.

 

opc1:

 

ok so today was rather productive even though i got a late start....my daughter fell and looked like she may have broken her leg...so off to the ER we went...and we know how that goes...5 hrs later we left there with a diagnosis of no break thankfully. what aggrivates me is this: i'm a special forces medic. part of my job is not only taking but reading xrays and developing a diagnosis. the hospital staff at here at ft carson are pretty familiar with our scope of practice (i know because my second medical rotation i did here, thats when i first started looking at houses). so you'd think after hours of sitting in a waiting room, when that hospital staff is approached by someone who says "i'm an sf medic, i can read her xrays, can i take a look? if its broke we'll stay, if not we'll go and i'll accept the liability." you'd think they'd say "ok" if for no other reason than to get someone out of there a little bit quicker...but nope...what do i get "you have to wait like everyone else, we're backed up, you have to deal with it" etc etc. when i asked if they could at least check and make sure her paperwork is in the right spot (when my son broke his hand we sat around for 3 hrs while they lost his paperwork. we had to go back through triage all over again, finally got out of there at 1am on a school night...i was pissed) they looked at me like i had a d*ck coming out of my forehead! then proceded to watch tv while they attempted to "reassure" me that her paperwork was. they finally got up and checked when i told them to get off their butts and go check or i'd go to NCOIC. it was and they came back with smug little smirks. assholes. ok...on to the bronco....i didn't get as many pics as i wanted to today because it was a very aggrivating process. thanks to my neighbor we got the transfer case and tranny out today.

 

i will start off by saying, when removing the tranny you MUST remove either the exhaust or the transfer case first. i tried to get the tranny and transfer case out as a unit but the muffler was in the way and i couldn't get it far enough over or the tcase/tranny far enough the opposite direction to clear. there are 6 bolts that hold the tcase to the adapter between it and the tranny. there's another 6 the hold the adapter to the tranny. i chose to remove the ones holding the adapter to the tcase because they were easier to get at. there are two bolts at the top of the tcase. the one on the driver side is pretty easy to get a socket and ratchet on. the one on the passenger side is a bigger PITA. i tried all different angles, floppy heads, 12" extensions etc. in the end a 1/2 socket, floppy head and 3" extension is all i needed to get the bolt out.

and here's a view of the tcase from through the floor pan that i removed.
that's the bolt in the previous pics.

oh yea, remember to disconnect the the linkage if you have a manual tcase and the wiring harness if you have an electric tcase like i do.
the bolt underneath the top on the passenger side i tried using an air ratchet and floppy head but the socket kept popping off. then i tried a regular ratchet and the same thing. finally i used a 1/2" box wrench and a strap to get a little more leverage and it broke it loose. instead of testing my luck i just used the open end of the wrench and took my time removing the bolt. talk about an uncomfortable position. i was on my side, holding myself up on an elbow with my other arm wrapped around the exhaust to tcase trying to remove the damn bolt. finally got it out after what seemed like forever. ok, after you have all the bolts out get a pry bar and a buddy. the tcase is a good 80 or so pounds and kinda awkward. start prying it off slowly....rotate it as necessary and it'll come off. just remember if you try to hold it by the yokes, they'll spin....that almost caused a little accident today....but we caught it.
sorry i dont have many pics today but thats why i'm trying to be as detailed as a i can in the write up.
ok, tranny time. if you haven't pulled the floor pan yet do so now. you'll need to. save yourself some time and disconnect the filler tube, there's one bolt that holds it to something (not sure what...mine wasn't there) and pull the tube out. now, remember how i said the bolt wasnt there on mine...still didnt stop the tube from getting hung up and squished...so i cut it with a sawzall when we discovered why the tranny was stuck.

also, do yourself a few favors here...drain ALL the fluid....from not only the tranny but the torque converter and the lines...i drained it all from the tranny and the lines....but not the tc....needless to say i had a gallon of tranny fluid to clean up.
the tranny has 3 connectors for the wiring harness...one on the top and one on each side. the harness has a bit of play in it so you can remove them now or later. i removed the one on the driver side and top. the one on the passenger side has a heat shield in front of it so i got that after the tranny came out.
dont forget to remove the starter and the flywheel cover. now you should be ready to remove the tranny. there's 6 nolts that hold it to the engine. the haynes i have says to remove the 4 torque converter bolts first but it doesn't say how. you'll notice the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel. the nuts on the front of the flywheel are removeable. i ended up pulling the tranny and did this part last. if it messes up the trans doing it this way and you want to reuse the tranny then take the time and turn the engine and remove the bolts. here's a pic of them.

there is enough room between the flywheel and the exhaust to get a ratchet and socket on these. i'm not reusing my tranny and it's shot anyways so i didnt care if it yanking it with the torque converter still attached to the flywheel messes up the tranny or not. after you remove these you got 6 bolts left. get yourself an impact, 2 12" extensions a 5/8" socket (i believe) and a floppy head for an impact. the two bolts on top you'll have to access through the floor pan. use the floppy head for the impact and 1 12" extension. they'll come right out. next you have the middle two bolts (the 6 bolts are in a semi circle with the arch going up. divide it in half going top to bottom, 3 on each side...top, middle and bottom) will need both the extensions and the floppy head. they pop right out as well. the bottom one on the driver side is easy to see and get to. the bottom on the passenger side i had to go in through the wheel well. for me it's not that big of a deal cause i dont have much of one left. but there's a bracket that was used to support the inner fender..i cut that off and it made the necessary room to access the bolt. if you haven't cut your inner fenders like i have then you'll have to be more creative considering you have both exhaust pipes, both cats and an AIR tube in the way.

 

ok, thanks to my computer i lost the entire last post i was doing...so lets see how much i remember about what i wrote....
once all the bolts are out make sure its supported well on a tranny jack. the e4od has a nice rectangular bottom so getting a jack on it was easy. also ratchet straps make removal easier....i used one to secure the tranny to the jack and the other to pull it by securing it to my receiver shackle.

remember how i said before my tranny got stuck...thats cause the e4's have these little ears that stick out....the dipstick got locked in on the AIR tube and the ear on the driver's side got stuck on the body. the fix...a sawzall to the filler tube and a pry bar to the ear to assist it past the body...here's a pic of the pesky ear...like my pointer? haha..

so once these two were fixed the tranny slid right out....ok in reality the jack lost pressure and it dropped 6" rather suddenly causing my neighbor and i to move faster than either of have in a while. afterwards we laughed about it. at this time i removed the third and final wiring harness connector.

heres what you're left with if you did it my way....

now remember that the engine (and therefore the torque converter) rotates clockwise when viewed from the front. you'll want to minimize the counter clockwise rotation as much as possible. making sure to rotate to TC in the correct direction i was able to get all the TC bolts off the flywheel. be ready..the TC weighs about 35lbs. you have 6 bolts left on the flywheel now....i used my impact and they popped right out...one thing i like about autos....the flywheel weighs about 5lbs....haha. very nice when you consider the weight you've just removed....
now you have access to the rear main...if yours is leaking like mine now is the perfect time to swap it...be careful not to gouge the crank....

tomorrow i'll buy a quart of oil and use a little to lube the new rear main and install it then. as for tonight that's all the progress i've made....hopefully tomorrow i'll have it running again....i have to report in tuesday afternoon and start in processing wednesday so my goal is to be done by then. we shall see.

 

ok so the haynes says the neutral saftey switch is the purple and orange wire.....well on the e4od wiring harness there are two purple and orange wires..each going to a different connector....do i need to run a wire one of those pins to the other? heres a pic....

here you can see the two wires....

and here you can see them going to seperate connectors...

 

ok heres where i'm at and here's what i've tried.....
clutch....still have no pedal.....when you push it down with your hand it easily goes to the floor with only a little resistance felt as it hits the bottom of the stroke. removed the rubber grommet on the bottom of the tranny and can see the slave cylinder pushing against the pressure plate but slave only moves about an 1/8". cant tell if i have any leaks due to, like a dumbass, i just cracked the bleeder valve as i was originally bleeding it and have residual brake fluild all over the tranny. tried to clean as best i could be haven't found my shop rags yet. since, i have hooked up an actual bleeding line and cup and bled it according to haynes (push pedal down and hold a few seconds release fully and quickly, repeat 10x on last stroke hold and bleed....repeat process 5x. still no luck. clutch master is for a 93 bronco with a manual, slave is for a 93 bronco manual.

starting-trying to bypass the neutral safety switch...haynes says it the purple and orange wires and black and pink. ok....so i did this...with the original wiring harness from the donor vehicle....

original harness spliced into left over speaker wire...black and pink are the black... and purple and orange are the red....spliced into original e4od wiring harness...black wire to black and pink and red to purple and orange....nothing....
then i tried this....cutting above mention wires on the wiring harness and looping them together like so.....

and still nothing.....i'm out of ideas..today is my last day of leave and i kinda need the bronco to run....how do i fix this?

oh yea..i promise i have a bunch more pics of my install....50 total on my photobucket account. once i get these issues fixed i'll post them.....

 

I found I had to hammer the clutch pedal to the floor several times to get it to bleed successfully. It's a two person job.