SaltLife's Beach Build

TheUnforgiven · Mar 11, 2013

I sure do hope that you kept those pushrods/lifters in order. With a non roller engine you gotta put them back in the same place.

Saltlife · Mar 11, 2013

speedyweasel said:
So that was just decking and pressure testing? Looks like you got a fair amount of work done on the engine, though. Who's doing the bottom end -- or are you just doing the heads?

I'm just doing the Heads. The whole motor was rebuilt 80k miles ago. Everything is in great shape. I just think the PO did not torque anything down just hand tight. Every gasket seems to have been leaking.

thin blue line · Mar 12, 2013

UNFORGIVEN i hope he did to or its going to be bye bye cam shaft. i will try to check with him in the morning

TheUnforgiven · Mar 12, 2013

He said he didn't remove the lifters in his other thread, so he's fine.

Saltlife · Mar 19, 2013

Got outside with the bronco today to do the TRE flip.

I followed Landshark's write-up: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174477

The start:

Took the cotter pin's and castle nuts out and could not get the TREs out with any hammer. I started with a rubber mallet, moved to claw hammer, then a slug hammer PB Blasting in between. Nothing budged.

since they where messed up anyways with dirt and water all in them I took a torch and heated up the knuckles and got them out:

Sleeve I ordered from BG:

Reamer Kingfish999 mailed to me to borrow:

I took the tires off and got started. Little by little I kept checking the sleeve in the knuckle as I reamed it out:

Both done:

I did mess up the TREs more with the torch so I am ordering a new set and will install when they come in.

TheUnforgiven · Mar 20, 2013

I'm surprised you didn't mess up the threads hitting them without nuts on them!

Oh, also, with tie rods you want to hit the knuckle if they are being tough to get out. The vibration from the side will help break the tension holding them in.

Saltlife · Mar 20, 2013

TheUnforgiven said:
I'm surprised you didn't mess up the threads hitting them without nuts on them!

Oh, also, with tie rods you want to hit the knuckle if they are being tough to get out. The vibration from the side will help break the tension holding them in.

Where were you at yesterday when I needed that info! Did hit them a few times. Oh well I ordered a complete new set of tire rods and hardware from Advance last night. I will be picking everything up today and finishing the flip today.

BakerBaker · Mar 20, 2013

I suppose it wont be long before you service the ball joints too. Like unforgiven mentioned, put the nut on, but Flip the nut upside down before you hammer it.

TheUnforgiven · Mar 20, 2013

I feel you could have easily reused the original tie rods. It's REALLY difficult to trash the threads with the nut on there flush with the stud. You said "one was seized". not always, just because it doesn't move easily doesn't mean it's seized and junk. It HAS to move, because the steering turns. That means it's not seized

20sNaRanger · Mar 20, 2013

glad to see you're using the torch

great progress josh

Saltlife · Mar 20, 2013

20sNaRanger said:
glad to see you're using the torch great progress josh

:thumbup Thanks man

Saltlife · Mar 20, 2013

Finished the TRE Flip

Went ahead and bought everything at Advance

Come to find out if you buy Driveworks tie rods from Advance the necks where you screw the castle nuts on are thicker/bigger than stock tie rods.

So I didn’t need these:

But now there is a hair line play on the bottom of the knuckle. I will get my alignment guy to look at it and he will fix it.

All installed:

Once it is down on the tires and the weight of the motor is back in they should be completely straight or maybe a slight higher. When I installed my 4" lift I installed a 6" drop-pitman arm to bring down the tie rods down more.

Lastly I greased them:

deathmobile2 · Mar 20, 2013

Should be zero play - make sure you have the right stuff!

Kingfish999 · Mar 20, 2013

glad it worked for ya. hope the reamed did good, its getting worn out.

did you use stock tierods or did you use thicker ones? how much did all them cost ya?

Saltlife · Mar 20, 2013

deathmobile2 said:
Should be zero play - make sure you have the right stuff!

I have the right stuff and double checked. Remember I reamed the knuckle out for the sleeve so the it's offset. Alignment guy is going to make a sleeve for me.

Kingfish999 said:
glad it worked for ya. hope the reamed did good, its getting worn out.

did you use stock tierods or did you use thicker ones? how much did all them cost ya?

It worked perfect man. Thanks :rockon I will have it out in the mail tomorrow.

I used all Driveworks parts from advance with %15 online discount i paid $106

goldennavy · Mar 20, 2013

Nice work salt, how long did the whole evolution take you? looks pretty simple

Saltlife · Mar 20, 2013

goldennavy said:
Nice work salt, how long did the whole evolution take you? looks pretty simple

If you are able to use your stock tie rods then this should not take much longer than 1 1/2 hours.

norfolkff05 · Mar 21, 2013

strong work bro!

one word of advice....keep your old TREs for spares. you never know when you will need them, especially when up in the mountains!

Kingfish999 · Mar 21, 2013

o I see. for like 40$ more you could have went with stronger http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214134

Saltlife · Mar 21, 2013

norfolkff05 said:
strong work bro!

one word of advice....keep your old TREs for spares. you never know when you will need them, especially when up in the mountains!

Thanks man.

I have them boxed up and bringing to the round-up this year. :thumbup

Kingfish999 said:
o I see. for like 40$ more you could have went with stronger http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214134

I checked on Moog before buying these. From Advance with %15 off it cost $361.14 for everything. :shocked

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