Manual Hub Swap

JD_Bronco · May 13, 2007

http://www.4x4preservation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1889#post1889

NOTE this is only for the 5 Bolt hubs, not the 3 bolts found in 92-96?
Install Warn manual hubs
Introduction
The problem started when I found my "new" full size 1989 Bronco's four wheel drive
was only 2 wheel drive! No power was being delivered to the front wheels. It was mentioned
at fullsizebronco.com that if one of the auto hubs was bad and there was an open diff
in the front, which 99% of the time its open from the factory, then one wheel (most likely
the one with the bad hub) will have the axle shaft free spin inside of the hub

Tools List
Torx bits - Allen wrenches - #2 flat blade screw driver - claw hammer - Crow Bar
Black rubber tie-down strap with hooks - Needle nose pliers

Auto hub cover removed

First, removed the metal clip (not pictured, already removed) and with needle nose
pliers, squeeze the tabs of the locking ring together. Gently pull and the auto hub
assembly will easily come out. If the lockout is "froze"in the drum, gently tap
around the outside to free it up. It may also be helpful to re-insert some of the
cap screws to pull the assembly out with.

Factory auto hub on its way out

Factory auto locking hub assembly removed

With the auto locking assembly removed, inspect for a gruve that holds a C-Clip
in place. Remove the C-Clip and then the spacer/washer.

Next, your ready to install the manual hub. As you can see in this picture, the
snap ring gruve is not visible, and thus cannot be accessed. The snap ring must be installed.

As I was doing this project "Lone Ranger" style, I needed to apply outward pressure
on the axle shaft u-joint. The only way I could quickly resolve this was to place a
standard crow bar behind the u-joint and using a black rubber tie-down strap to
pull tension on the crow bar. I simply hooked the other end to the Pittman arm

very easy to fit in place.

Install the cap and tighten down the 6 Warn provided cap screws with your Allen wrench. Finished, move to the next wheel!

Time for the road test! Although, you don’t actually want to do a road test on
the road! Running 4X4 on dry pavement has a nasty habit of creating drive line
windup, which results in excessive tension place on all drive line components.
The only way for this stress to relieve its self is to break the weakest part. Most
likely, your new hubs or a U-Joint will pop leaving you a bad feeling in the tummy.

Keep your vehicle in 2X4, put your truck in the mud and hammer down. Observe only the
rear tires spin. Lock in your hubs and switch to 4X4. You should notice a great difference.
Given the right circumstances (Slick enough mud, hard enough gas) you should be able
to visually observe a front tire spin such as I did. Proof positive, your front tires are engaged!

Chemfrk · May 13, 2007

Great write up,

I just referred someone here yesterday for this exact thing...

Chem

JD_Bronco · May 13, 2007

thanks, it is a popular question so hopefully it'll help

Joes93Bronco · May 13, 2007

You need to edit this:

JD_Bronco said:
Install Warn manual hubs
Introduction
The problem started when I found my "new" full size 1989 Bronco's four wheel drive
was only 2 wheel drive! No power was being delivered to the front wheels. It was mentioned
at fullsizebronco.com that if one of the auto hubs was bad and there was an open diff
in the front, which 99% of the time its open from the factory, then one wheel (most likely
the one with the bad hub) will have the axle shaft free spin inside of the

.................................. where's the rest? Did you write this or cut and paste from somewhere else? The rest of that paragraph is missing.

Also if you can it is easier to do this with the wheel off. Much easier to get that bar in there when you are by yourself when the tire/wheel is out of the way.

JD_Bronco · May 13, 2007

my bad, should be hub

the pics aren't mine, they are from an old write-up on here that I saved, but the pics are no longer available due to supermotors

JD_Bronco · May 13, 2007

i messed it up when i copied it from 4x4 preservation site

mudguppy · May 14, 2007

you did not mention anything about 3bolt and 5 bolt hubs...not everyone knows it but 5 bolt hubs require hub replacement ONLY and 3 bolt hubs will require new spindle nuts..id hate to see someone tear thiEr stuff apart that has 3 bolt hubs and then realize they need a spindle nut set....i just installed warn premiums in place of my 5 bolt auto hubs

drkhrs925 · May 15, 2007

I should mention in here that you can do this with junk yard hubs off almost any dana 44. If I remember correctly the only thing you need to change on a 3 bolt is the keyed washer inbetween the spindle nuts. That is simple enough to grab from the junk yard from a 5 bolt. Or if your smart pull a set of f250 locking hubs, spindle nuts and washers. Keep the ford stuff for trail spares.

save yourself some coin if you are thinking about the warn economy. The ford units seem to be just as good if not exactaly the same. I have seen several references that all the ford units are ford badged warn hubs anyways. I have had warn premiums and stock ford in my hands at the same time and they look almost identicle. they will not however bolt together becuase the bolt circle for the cap is slightly different.

bdb93 · May 27, 2007

Newbie ? When you say "5 bolt hubs" are you talking about the allen screws on the outside of the hub? cause my 93 Bronco has 5 of them and its auto.

JD_Bronco · May 27, 2007

yes, when saying 5 or 3 bolt it refers to the number of allen screws on the cover.

If you follow the link at the top of the thread and scroll down a little, there is a write-up for the 3 bolt hubs

EDIT: wait so your 93 has 5 screws?
does it already have manual hubs?

miesk5 · Nov 12, 2010

yo Andrew
Good info way4off

I use dental pick type tools.. avail @ Wally Mart

Also
Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS, NOT Factory Auto Hubs; Ford Pickups and Bronco; "...Using a lockout spanner (Ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.).." Thanks to 90beater (Topher, Chris)!!!!

Wheel Bearing Locknut Socket pic; "...The L spanner is stronger & less likely to slip off a nut, but it won't work on a self-locking nut..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/701808

epsgunner · Jan 27, 2013

I know this OLD.. In picture #7 showing the RED highlighted spacer washer must be removed.. does this mean I do not need to remove any of the BEARING nuts on this??

JBfab · Jan 29, 2013

Correct just the spacer right before the first keyed nut.

dan.jones · Feb 20, 2013

I've about gone nuts searching for this but can't seem to find it anywhere. I just put Warn Premiums on my bronco to replace the old manual ones. the instructions said the hub body should have some in and out play, and mine does, but I was expecting it to be more. There was probly a few thousandths front to back, or barely enough to see it moving, but I was expecting maybe 1/32" or so. My first thought was to check the spindle nuts, but I have the old style spanner, and as far as I can tell the bronco has the self locking adjusting nut? I should probly jus go buy the right spanner, but if the play in the Warn's is actually correct, then I don't really need it right now. Can anyone tell me how much front to back play the lockout body should Have?

Steve83 · Feb 21, 2013

dan.jones said:
the instructions said the hub body should have some in and out play, and mine does, but I was expecting it to be more. There was probly a few thousandths front to back, or barely enough to see it moving, but I was expecting maybe 1/32" or so. ... Can anyone tell me how much front to back play the lockout body should Have?

Exactly what the mfr.'s instructions said: "SOME". :thumbup That means the outer snap ring is fully engaged in its groove. If there's NONE, it COULD mean you left that spacer in there, and the snap ring is barely hanging, and it could pop out while you're driving. If there's SOME, it means the lock body went in far enough to allow the ring to drop in fully, and you have nothing to worry about.

...OTHER THAN the regular maintenance that you obviously skipped from the day you installed those at the beginning of this thread until the Warns you put in yesterday. :smilie_slap ALL hub locks & wheel bearings require maintenance more often than every 6 years :twak, unless you just enjoy destroying part$, buying new one$, & doing the work of installing them.

BakerBaker · Feb 20, 2013

you need that hub tool anyway to check and repack your bearings as part of a routine maintenance schedule. But I dont think you need it for what your doing. The warn locking hubs will have play. Mmmm about an 1/8 inch?? What holds the hub in place is the snap ring and the outter metal ring that is a biach to get out.

I talked to a guy a few weeks ago that said he replaced the hubs on a 4x4 one time for a buddy and by the time his friend got to where he was going the hubs were gone. He must have left the two rings out.

I think your fine, maybe over thinking it a little?

dan.jones · Feb 20, 2013

well the problem is I'm not sure if they have Enough play. Like you said I was expexting it to be more like an 1/8" but mine's just BARELy movin. I got the lock ring and snap ring in fine an put it all together an they work fine, but I'm worried there should be more clearance there. But again like you said I'm gonna just pick up the right wrench and re-pack my bearings at least and be sure. I'm pretty sure my spindle bearing needs attention too.
Thanks

BakerBaker · Feb 21, 2013

use a tire iron, etc.. to push from the u-joint on the other side. Push the stub axle out and It will give you more clearance

dan.jones · Feb 21, 2013

Thanks Steve.. THAT's what I needed to know :thumbup The lockring went in fine, and I never had any doubt it was seated right.

Just for the record though... I didn't install the previous hubs, just the Warns. The others were on there when I bought the rig...not hardly six years ago lol. The bearings are still good and tight and the old lockouts still turned easy so I assumed they were fine till the driver's side died, but I do know what happens when I assume anything
Thanks

Steve83 · Feb 21, 2013

I just realized that this isn't your thread. :brownbag I confused myself by jumping around between threads - sorry.

dweb4 · Mar 3, 2014

Thanks a lot for the write up I changed to manual hubs this weekend. The warn hubs work perfect, your pics and help was on the money! I got 4 wheel drive again!!

bocajoe · Mar 4, 2014

Nice write up, thanks!

Fords4Life · Mar 11, 2015

I bought the mile marker set from bronco graveyard. Looks like my installation should be the same yet I can't get the outer snap ring into the groove in the hub. Is add if the mile marker unit won't sit back far enough to allow the ring to drop into place. Any suggestions.

Dman94X · Mar 12, 2015

Sorry for the newb question, but I have a '96 F150 with manual hubs, and I just bought a Bronco which still has the factory auto hubs. What exactly are the benefits to switching over to the manual hubs?

In my experience with the truck, it seems like the hubs are more of a pain. It sure would be nice to have the convenience of auto hubs on cold snowy days where I can use 4x4 until I get out to the highway and then just switch it off on the dash once I hit clean roads instead of having to stop, get out, walk around the truck, and then proceed.

Steve83 · Mar 12, 2015

Dman94X said:
What exactly are the benefits to switching over to the manual hubs?

Most people THINK that manuals are stronger & require less maintenance. NEITHER is true. Manuals are simply more-tolerant to neglect, but the recommended maintenance is the same.

So there's no real advantage unless you consider neglect to be desirable.

Dman94X said:
In my experience with the truck, it seems like the hubs are more of a pain. It sure would be nice to have the convenience of auto hubs on cold snowy days where I can use 4x4 until I get out to the highway and then just switch it off on the dash once I hit clean roads instead of having to stop, get out, walk around the truck, and then proceed.

The dash button has no direct effect on the hub locks. That's a transfer case control (ESOF). But the auto hub locks RESPOND to front d'shaft movement, which is initiated by the t-case.

With either type of hub lock, they MUST still be unlocked before going above 55MPH on dry pavement. Read the owner's manual, the sticker on the driver's sun visor (if present), and the 4-Wheeling With Ford brochure.

Dman94X · Mar 13, 2015

Hey thank you for the great reply, Steve. Based on that information I see no reason to switch out the auto hubs on my Bronco.

If and when the factory auto hubs go out, are there any aftermarket auto hub options?

TheUnforgiven · Mar 13, 2015

Steve83 · Mar 13, 2015

The "factory" auto hub locks are "aftermarket". Ford doesn't actually build any vehicle parts; it buys parts that it sources from subcontractors. Dana/Spicer supplied the front axle. But they quit making their own hub locks in the 70s, so all the hub locks they installed in '80-96 TTBs (auto & manual) were bought from Warn (the aftermarket parts company). And AFAIK, Warn never sold autos over-the-counter; only to axle mfrs. as OE parts. But MANY vehicle mfrs. used Dana front axles with Warn hub locks (auto & manual) identical to ours, so there are a lot of them out there in the JYs.

Manual Hub Swap

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