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At Cold start, rough idle and stall in 84 5.8L carb

16K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  OhNoBronco85  
#1 ·
#3 ·
If you're 85 Jasper 351 is carbed that's where I'd start, when was it new or rebuilt it may be time, power valve inside comes to mind...Carb's rough idle could also be the electric choke not functioning or fast and standing idle, needle and seat needs to be adjusted and look for potential vaccum/gasket leaks.

Can you tell if it's running rich or lean, pull a few plugs and see what condtion they're in for an indication.

Put a clear fuel filter after the fuel pump but before the Carb, you'll be amazed at the debris in tha gasoline...but it spares the carb....

Get a Haynes Repair Manual if you don't have one, like it or not it's a good source of wrenching inforamtion.


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
#5 ·
Sounds like the carb is having issues, or with the miles of vacuum lines on that model year they are breaking and failing. Cold temps bring lean conditions more into play.


you have some digging to do.
 
#6 · (Edited)
If it has the factory Holley 4 barrel that's the problem -- there crap ..

My '86 with the 351 and factory holley has the stall when cool also and I'm sure not running right because of the carb . I have my 86 for sale but if it don't sell I will be replacing it with a edelbrock . My has been smog deleted also .

About all I can help ya with . Is carb most likely .. And could be a vacuum line also I have some not capped on my . From who ever done the smog delete . But I have all the vacuum lines fixed . Just needs a carb now to be 100% .

And the factory Holley is not worth rebuilding says my carb rebuild guy that's been rebuilding them since the '50's ..
He said he has had these factory carbs come to him for work strait from the lot back then .


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#7 ·
My 84 has been stripped down. No smog, no A/C, nada. All vacuum lines have been terminated that can be.

Question about the carb diagnosis is what might be the origin of the clunking sound after the initial, relatively, successful ignition?

I agree that the carb likely needs to be rebuilt/replaced, but surely I can get her running again with $400+ dollars in carb expenditures; only to have to replace the fuel pump anyway.

I guess I will start wight the fuel pump first, then move on to the carb.

Here's the next question, what the best way to work in the street when it's cold, rainy and windy?

I JUST WANNA DRIVE!!!!!


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#8 ·
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai...re=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2Flike%2F310762532674%3Flpid%3D82&adtype=pla

It's threaded into the metering block and a simple back fire can take it out.....if you don't know how old or when the last time it was rebuilt then I suggest a full rebuild, kits are available and not expensive....I'm sure You Tube has plenty of How To videos for reference..

(Googled) The easiest way to explain the PVS is that it functions like a vacuum actuated set of jets built inside the metering block. What this means is that when the power valve is activated ("on") it will allow fuel to flow through the PVCRs into each main well (one for each main jet), on it's way to the boosters, thus making the fuel mixture "richer". This system is one of the reasons Holley carburetors are so tuneable. It allows the carb to be jetted for maximum economy / driveability, while at the same time making it possible to tune for full throttle performance without having to rely soley on the secondaries.

The easiest way to explain the PVS is that it functions like a vacuum actuated set of jets built inside the metering block. What this means is that when the power valve is activated ("on") it will allow fuel to flow through the PVCRs into each main well (one for each main jet), on it's way to the boosters, thus making the fuel mixture "richer". This system is one of the reasons Holley carburetors are so tuneable. It allows the carb to be jetted for maximum economy / driveability, while at the same time making it possible to tune for full throttle performance without having to rely soley on the secondaries.

The easiest way to explain the PVS is that it functions like a vacuum actuated set of jets built inside the metering block. What this means is that when the power valve is activated ("on") it will allow fuel to flow through the PVCRs into each main well (one for each main jet), on it's way to the boosters, thus making the fuel mixture "richer". This system is one of the reasons Holley carburetors are so tuneable. It allows the carb to be jetted for maximum economy / driveability, while at the same time making it possible to tune for full throttle performance without having to rely soley on the secondaries.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
#10 ·
UPDATE:

Went out to replace the fuel pump. Decided to give it one more try... fired right up. Rough idle and unknown metallic grinding/,clunking sound of unknown location and origin that cleared up once the engine warmed. Drove it around the block a few times and it seemed fine, which worries me more than a faulty part that is clearly malfunctioning and is replaced.

I'm looking for that "eureka" moment on this one if you have any insight. Thanks!!


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#13 ·
RecarbCo Carburetors - Pittsburg, CA
www.recarbco.com

Champion Carburetor (bought Pony Carburetor)
Late Model Holley 4150 Carburetor, (4v), Remanufactured
Electric Choke
$299.99
Supply your carburetor to be professionally rebuilt. This listing is only for R & R (Restoration & Return). We currently don't have any cores of this model to exchange. You must send in your carburetor to get remanufactured. When we process your order we will email you the address for you to send your carburetor for remanufacturing.

Notes: All remanufactured carburetors carry a 30-day warranty. Remanufactured carburetors cannot be returned. All sales are final

4180-C 4V Review (part ad); "...The 4180 has become one of our special products for the '83 through '85 Mustang 302 V8's. From the factory they had several engineering problems relating to rough idle, hesitation and flat spots on acceleration, and hard starting when hot. We correct all of these items during the restoration. When completed they will run much better than they ever did the day they left the factory..."
Source: by ponycarburetors.com

4160 Tuning in an 83 351W
Source: by dan50 at FSB http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123312

4160 Rebuild in an 83 351 by dan50 & many others at FSB http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122860

4160 Installation, Ford & other makes
Source: by holley.com
 
#14 ·
Update: reman carb installed. Unknown part bolted to rear of carb spacer. When left uninstalled it would not idle at all. Bolted shitty worn out piece back on and idle is achievable. Perhaps EGR valve? Can spacer block be deleted and EGR too with new intake/carb suds installed into intake? Park idle and curb idle is still not ideal. Will timing advance to factory specs help? Carb adjust?

Kind of a babe in the woods when it comes to the functioning and tuning of fuel intake/delivery so any and all help is super appreciated.


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#17 ·
If you're gonna delete spacer then use a mechanical carb, buy diff intake, dist and coil. Also, don't expect to pass emissions. Actually you could maybe pass emissions with a properly tuned carb. If your doing the work yourself you're probably looking at about a thousand in parts. Maybe cheaper of you pull from a junk yard. If you're going to buy parts and have a mechanic do it, then it'll probably be 2500 to 3000
 
#19 ·
Years ago I had a 87 f150 with that motor,I found that the heat riser,flapper in the air cleaner and all the other stuff had to be working for it to run good when cold. Even with all that stuff working I still had issues with the carb icing up and crappy idle until the motor was completely warmed up and figured it was normal for a carbed smog motor,I think the EPA caused the last of the carbed motors to be extremely lean and I do not remember any running as good as the older non smog motors. I sold it and if we did not have emisson testing at the time I would have taken all that stuff off and had me a non OEM Holley on it along with a better intake and tuned to run good.
 
#20 ·
OhNoBronco85, on the back of the spacer, there should be a threaded hole about 3/8" that needs to be plugged, the plug should have come with the spacer if bought new. Also make sure the brake booster line is hooked up?? Listen for a vacuum leak, i think you have an easy fix here, just some investigation work to do.
Check your plugs and plug wires, an easy way to do this is to get vehicle warmed up to running temp. Pull the wire from the spark plug (Use a pair of gloves, and don't ground yourself to the vehicle or you'll be in for a shock, and the exhaust will be hot, so be careful) listen for a hesitation in the motor, you'll definetly be able to tell if it's gettiing good contact, by the hesitation. If it hesitates the wire, and plug are good. Put the wire back on and move to the next plug/wire. If it doesn't make any difference, your plug is probably bad. This is an easy way to trouble shoot some of your electrical system, without buying a bunch of stuff you don't need. If you have a garage, or acess to one, you can pull in there with vehicle running, turn off all the lights, so it's real dark, open the hood and look for sparks "flying around" you could have an open wire some where causing a misfire/short. These are just some suggestions, and thing I have done personally that have helped me find issues. I hope this helps, keep us posted, there are more suggestions to come if needed. Good Luck. "Rock On"
 
#21 ·
Installed a reman from guaranteedcarburetors.com. Having a hell of a time with cold starts now. Plugged multiple vacuum leaks including the egr valve thing on the carb spacer. Maybe it has been so damn cold and the poor guy sits outside. I'm trying to wheel in the morning and I can't get it to start. It just goes from not starting to flooded. I haven't driven I in a few days. Prime carb? How do I do it? Other ideas? It was driving fine and starting ok until I let it sit in subfreezing temps for a few days without starting up.


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