So if recall those wheel bearing should be changed about every 60,000 miles. Don't know the history of your truck, but I'd change out both front bearings and switch over to manual locking hubs while you're at it.

Oh, and please update your signature. It'll make things easier in the future.

 

Thanks @Siggy89 for the reply. I updated my sig .

So you think it's the wheel bearings? I'm pretty sure when I bought the vehicle there was little to no work done on any of the suspension components.
I've so far replaced springs, shocks, pads, pivot bushings, tie rods, sway bushings.

Why manual hubs?
I may be one of the rare few that likes the convenience of the 4x4 push button lol. I replaced the transfer case motor a few months ago, the 4x4 seems to be working fine.

 

Thanks Siggy for the reply. I updated my sig .

So you think it's the wheel bearings? I'm pretty sure when I bought the vehicle there was little to no work done on any of the suspension components.
I've so far replaced springs, shocks, pads, pivot bushings, tie rods, sway bushings.

Why manual hubs?
I may be one of the rare few that likes the convenience of the 4x4 push button lol. I replaced the transfer case motor a few months ago, the 4x4 seems to be working fine.

They prefer the manual hubs because they say they're more reliable than the auto locking. I have auto locking in my 82 and for me it was actually a selling point. My 89 had manual and imo they were a p.i.t.a... But I'm also a delicate flower who doesn't wanna get out in the crud and the yuck to lock or unlock my hubs 😏

But... I'd also be looking at bearings and hubs for your hum... Hopefully @miesk5 see this and comes in with one of his super detailed troubleshooting guides.

 

Thanks @BroncMom , appreciate the reply. I love the pushbutton too.

I'm hoping for a some input on whether my symptoms strongly suggest wheel bearings or something else.

 

Mine isn't push button 🙁 it's floor shifter, but is auto locking...in it's infancy...

I'm sure once miesk sees this he'll have some great info to help you out to pinpoint it.

 

I am changing my front axle universal joints so I have to take apart everything(very soon, maybe next week between two rains if I can gather all the parts). Mine is a 94. I would like to change every single bearing and seal in the knuckle, spindle and hub. So I'm very interested in the answers here.

 

Was talking to hubby about this as he had a similar issue with his escape (I just couldn't recall if it was actually the wheel bearing or the hub), a growl or hum especially when turning, he says is wheel bearing and if it's louder turning one way over the other then the side that's louder in the turn is the side that's junked up... So if louder turning right than left then it's the right bearing and vice versa...

 

Amazing restoration, your progress is where I'm hoping to get to someday.

Thanks for the input, it's such a strange noise, almost sounds hollow.

 

A growl is usually something grinding. If you're wheel bearings are grinding, you don't want to be driving it, until it's fixed. I had a wheel bearing go out once, truck was on 38s, couldn't hear it. The hub was grinding its way through the bottom side of the spindle. Only thing holding it on was the snap ring on the axle in the hub, and the brake caliper.....

 

yeah man, change out all the bearings on the front end. Sounds like you're already in there anyway. After that I'd rebuild the drive shaft. Or rather take it to a driveline specialist to get rebuilts for about $350. You can do it yourself, but it's not worth it.

 

Thanks everyone for the replies. I'll replace the bearings and seals this Saturday and post results.

Another question: Do I need to replace the spindle bearing and seals too? Or is that somethings that usually doesn't get worn out?

 

If you're that far in, replace the spindle bearing and seal. Often, that's how water gets in, and kills the main bearings.

 

Was hoping I wouldn't have to, guess I'll replace the spindle stuff too. Just heard it's a pain to take off.

 

In my instance, I had to replace a spindle. It wasn't that bad. Five or six bolts, the nuts are the pinched lock nuts, so they're tight all the way off. A little lube helps. The spindle is an interference fit in the knuckle, not as tight as press fit, so light tapping all the way around out at the end while pulling takes it right out. Be careful not to damage the threads.
In my instance, I replaced the spindle, bearings, outer races in the hub, bearing nuts and washer, all in a gas station parking lot, some 30 miles from home, using hand tools and the underhood retractable light, because it was after work.

 

In for a dime, in for a dollar with these rigs... But, do it right and do it once...

 

The pic I posted are all the parts needed if you want to do the whole front end bearings, seals and ball joints, There are a few threads on a compete pull apart/teardown. I have done it numerous times over the years. Mine are manual hubs, so yours may be a little different, but I thinks the rest should BE OK

1995 Outer Axle Seals

I am going through front end of a 95. Was mfg 5/95 but had one piece wheel seals and old style spindle. Switching to manual hubs. My axles seals were gone I guess. I can't find anything like the one I pictured (or is that one for the 3rd member). Questions: Based on the diagram below, does...

www.fullsizebronco.com

 

Thanks for the link! Please let me know if I got something wrong or missing anything? I got most of the parts off Amazon.

Wheel Bearings/Spindle Bearings/Seals:

• Timken set 37 bearing+race
• Timken set 45 bearing+race
• Timken b2110 needle bearing (spindle bearing)
• SKF Seal 13144 Axle Spindle Outer
• SKF Seal 24917 Inner wheel bearing seal
• SKF Axle 18844 Spindle Seal Front Inner

 

Finished replacing all the bearings, races and seals. Took it out for a drive, don't think it's resolved. Hard to tell until I'm on the highway tomorrow going over 55mph. I think at 40 the sound has quieted down, not really sure.
Will keep the post updated if anyone is curious.

Kind of a bummer

 

Well, I guess at least you know your bearings and seals are gtg........

 

Maybe my hearing sucks and the sound is coming from the left rear?

Would my symptoms apply to the rear end as well?

(While driving I get a humming noise from the front end (im pretty sure driver side) when I turn the steering wheel to the right. This sound is more pronounced when going over 30mph or highway speeds. When I straighten the wheel or move it left the humming noise is either gone or barely noticable.)

 

Just a thought, have you had your tires checked?

 

Yup, no tire issues. I had my tires checked and rotated recently when I did my alignment.

 

I'm going to go ahead and replace the left rear wheel bearing.
Praying to the four winds, hoping this resolves it.

 

If the noise is louder when you turn right then it's more likely to be the right side that's jacked up

 

Aww dammit. But I thought if I only get the sound when steering right, the bad bearings are on the left? Because the weight shifts to the left of the vehicle.
Maybe I'm wrong?

 

My thoughts are if you replace a wheel bearing on the front end you should replace both sides (driver and passenger side) and the same for the rear.

 

Going to do all four now. Not loving the messy procedure. And holy shit, the races are a pain to remove.

 

You're just doing the other front side now? My guess is that will solve your issue. Replacement of the rear bearings is a bit more difficult because you need to pull the axles to get the seals out if I recall. And while you're in there the thought creeps in, "Maybe I should replace those spider gears..."

 

Well my thought was, I'd just replace the side that was making noise, and replace the other if the sound didn't go away. I was just being a little bitch about doing the work. Will be doing the right side tomorrow.

I saw this video, but will wait on replacing the rear bearings until the right front is done.

 

You mentioned that your tires were rotated recently.
Is that when the sound started?

 

No, I've been experiencing the sound before the rotation.

 

Well, just firing the parts Cannon at it didn't fix it the first time, so, some diagnostics might be in order. Yes, you did the bearings on one side, so it wouldn't hurt to do the other. But, once the brakes are off, grab a wheel stud, and give the hub a spin, see if you hear anything. Check it for play, in/out, or side to side. Rotate the hub with a hand on the rotor to see if you can feel anything.
How were the brakes on the first side, how does the other side look?
If you go to the rear axle, check its rotation. You'll need it chocked in neutral. Check it like the front, rotate it, and listen/feel for grinding. You can do this before buying parts.
I prob should've said this earlier, sorry.

 

Well finished the front right side today. Still hearing the noise, so its not any of the bearings in the front I don't think. I thought maybe its the pinion/gear, but then I only get the sound when turning right or tilting right. Also I can get the sound from a stop turning right or just coasting right. Tilting left the sound goes away or softens to where I can barely hear it.

 

Have you tried listening with radio off, and the window down? Then, maybe put that one back up, and run the passenger side down. It'll be some quieter anyway, from across the cab.

 

just throwing this out , but this is a true story from myself.

I had a ticking whirling noise at various speeds and I would have BET THE FARM that it was coming from my front end . I checked my front wheel bearings , etc and couldn't find any issues

It turned out to be the double cardan in the rear driveshaft.

Noise can be a PITA and tricky to locate , like I said above I thought for sure it was the front end based on the noise , and I wasn't even close.

Its been mentioned already - so check that joint out too, the noise/feel could be traveling around and fooling you

 

Stuck my ear out the window while turning. I could swear its from the front left. I'm gonna take the wheel off again and try to figure this out.

@Riggs, My driveshaft front and back looks old but the spin looks ok. There is slight left/right play, could be nothing?
Also considering the car has over 170k it might need a replacement? joints are prob bad?

 

I would just pull off the driveshaft . It's only 8 bolts. Then you can inspect the ujoints and double cardan for slop .

I'm sure it could be checked while it's installed, but pulling it gives you a chance to grease everything up even if it checks out perfectly .

And yeah, there should be no slop in any of it. It's a bitch to rebuild so let's hope its not that. But it's worth checking before throwing new parts around .

 

I would just pull off the driveshaft . It's only 8 bolts. Then you can inspect the ujoints and double cardan for slop .

I'm sure it could be checked while it's installed, but pulling it gives you a chance to grease everything up even if it checks out perfectly .

And yeah, there should be no slop in any of it. It's a bitch to rebuild so let's hope its not that. But it's worth checking before throwing new parts around .

If I find a problem with the front driveshaft, would it be cheaper/easier to just buy an aftermarket one? Seems like it comes balanced with ujoints already installed.