This should cover most 87-96 V8s (302\351); for the I6s (300)s the solenoids are in the same general
area, as well as the valves. You can use this article as a basis to replace yours, just keep in mind it
will be slightly different.

Parts you'll need:
All available from a local autoparts store (except one)
Approximately 20' of vacuum hose (5\32")
2 Vacuum T's
Patience

To get started, I'll explain what the point of it all is. The EEC (Electronic Engine Control or computer)
uses electronic solenoids to send vacuum to valves (in this case, three valves: the EGR, the TAB
(next to the SMOG pump), and the TAD (behind the upper intake plenum). The EEC sends a
signal to the solenoid and it "opens" the valve to allow the engine vacuum through.
The easiest way to understand this is with the EGR.

At idle, the EGR is normally closed; but when you get to highway speeds, the EEC wants the EGR
to open. The EEC sends the signal to "open" the valve to let the vacuum through and the
vacuum opens the EGR. For a more in depth description of the TAB\TAD systems,
see this post (Thanks WuTang).

The TAB valve works the same way, it either directs the air pumped from the smog pump onward to
the TAD valve (we'll get there) or out to nowhere (not used). When the TAB valve directs the air
onto the TAD valve, the TAD valve either directs the air from the smog pump down into the catalytic
converter, or into the back of the engine. Here's a pic:

You can see the coil, the TAD, TAB, and EVR solenoids (EVR controls the EGR). You can see
the yellow line coming from the TAD solenoid, the pink line coming from the TAB solenoid, and the line
coming from the EVR is green; can't see it, but it's there. What you can't see (but when you look
at your truck you can) are the vacuum hoses that plug into the bottom of the solenoids. This is
where the vacuum is supplied to the solenoids. On the EVR(EGR) solenoid, it goes straight to the
vacuum tree (vacuum hook-up on the intake manifold). On the EVR(EGR), the top (green)
hose goes straight to the EGR valve, and the Bottom (red) hose goes straight to the intake manifold.

The TAB\TAD valves are a little different, but not much. The only difference is that the red line
(yes, the exact same one that goes to the bottom of the EVR\EGR solenoid) goes all the way over
to the vacuum canister on the fender, the vacuum canister stores vacuum for these valves
(TAB, TAD). Then there is a black vacuum line coming out of the vacuum canister next to the
red line that goes all the way back over to the bottom ports of the TAD\TAB solenoids.
From the top of the TAB solenoid a pink hose is run to the valve right next to the smog pump
(I'll show a pic after this rambling paragraph). From the TAD, there's a yellow hose run to
the TAD valve behind the intake manifold.

Here's a pic of a motor that's pulled, just so you can see where the valves are and such;
but you don't have to pull the motor, lord knows I didn't.

You can see the yellow line going to the "diverter" valve (TAD). You can also see
the “bypass” valve (TAB) (you can't see the vacuum line going there, but when you
look at it on your truck you'll see it), plus the EGR and all that other stuff.

Ok, so now that we have an idea of what goes on, let's get started. To avoid confusion,
only run one hose at a time. We need to replace\rerun the red vacuum line, so take a
piece of vacuum hose and run it from the vacuum tree on the intake manifold to
the vacuum canister.

Run it around the back of the engine (I ran it on top of the passenger side valve cover,
under the upper intake plenum). Plug the hose into the vacuum canister where the red
hose plugged into. Here's an overhead pic of how I have my vacuum lines run, you can
also use this to see how to run new (rubber) lines to the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)
and the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor. In all my pics I tried to use the most
sophisticated graphic design program known to man (Paint) to help. I tried to keep the
coloring the same as the original colors, with the exception of the MAP sensor and FPR:

Go back to the driver side of the intake, where the solenoids are, and cut the vacuum line
you just ran so you can put a "T" on it and run a very short vacuum line to the bottom of
the EVR\EGR solenoid:

From the T you connect a short vacuum hose to the bottom of the EVR solenoid, Pic:

Then run a vacuum hose from the top of the EVR solenoid where the green line used to be
(see pic above) to your EGR valve. I ran the hose through the hole in the middle of the
intake plenum, and then ran it up to the EGR:

Now go back to the vacuum canister, and run a vacuum hose from the OTHER plug on the
canister(formerly black line) to the bottom port on the 2 solenoids for TAB\TAD. You will
need another "T" so that you can split the hose into 2 hoses, one for each solenoid.
Kind of hard to see in this pic, you can see the white tip of the T, but it'll make sense
when your doing it:

2 hoses coming from the vacuum canister (A.C. stands for After Canister):

After that, run a hose from the top port on the TAD (front of the 2 solenoids) to the diverter
valve behind the intake plenum (originally it was a yellow hose). Here's a pic, I literally
set my camera on the intake plenum, and took a picture behind it; so it's kind of close up:

Almost done!
All that's left is to run a vacuum hose from the top port of the rear-most solenoid (TAB)
to the valve that’s right by the smog pump. This was the hardest part for me, but I have
fat fingers, and truthfully it wasn't that bad; just annoying. Here's a pic, it might be easier
to plug the hose in from under the truck, but I was able to do it from the top.

Here's the solenoids with the TAD, TAB, and the A.C. (After Canister) line:

That’s it for the SMOG stuff, but if you want to completely do away with all the plastic crap,
you can run a new hose from the vacuum tree straight to the FPR (fuel pressure regulator),
as well as a vacuum hose straight from the vacuum tree to the MAP sensor.
Here's some pics of the whole set up, you can see the hoses going to the solenoids:

If you change out the FPR and the MAP hoses, then you can literally take out the plastic
crap so it doesn't clutter up your engine bay, like I did:



That's pretty much it, now you have a rubber vacuum system!

Thanks goes to WuTang for proofreading\ideas, and thanks to Miesk5 for clarification on what
years this applies to and his never-ending knowledge!

Hi, my EGR has been eliminated. Is that OK

 

This should cover most 87-96 V8s (302\351); for the I6s (300)s the solenoids are in the same general
area, as well as the valves. You can use this article as a basis to replace yours, just keep in mind it
will be slightly different.

Parts you'll need:
All available from a local autoparts store (except one)
Approximately 20' of vacuum hose (5\32")
2 Vacuum T's
Patience

To get started, I'll explain what the point of it all is. The EEC (Electronic Engine Control or computer)
uses electronic solenoids to send vacuum to valves (in this case, three valves: the EGR, the TAB
(next to the SMOG pump), and the TAD (behind the upper intake plenum). The EEC sends a
signal to the solenoid and it "opens" the valve to allow the engine vacuum through.
The easiest way to understand this is with the EGR.

At idle, the EGR is normally closed; but when you get to highway speeds, the EEC wants the EGR
to open. The EEC sends the signal to "open" the valve to let the vacuum through and the
vacuum opens the EGR. For a more in depth description of the TAB\TAD systems,
see this post (Thanks WuTang).

The TAB valve works the same way, it either directs the air pumped from the smog pump onward to
the TAD valve (we'll get there) or out to nowhere (not used). When the TAB valve directs the air
onto the TAD valve, the TAD valve either directs the air from the smog pump down into the catalytic
converter, or into the back of the engine. Here's a pic:

You can see the coil, the TAD, TAB, and EVR solenoids (EVR controls the EGR). You can see
the yellow line coming from the TAD solenoid, the pink line coming from the TAB solenoid, and the line
coming from the EVR is green; can't see it, but it's there. What you can't see (but when you look
at your truck you can) are the vacuum hoses that plug into the bottom of the solenoids. This is
where the vacuum is supplied to the solenoids. On the EVR(EGR) solenoid, it goes straight to the
vacuum tree (vacuum hook-up on the intake manifold). On the EVR(EGR), the top (green)
hose goes straight to the EGR valve, and the Bottom (red) hose goes straight to the intake manifold.

The TAB\TAD valves are a little different, but not much. The only difference is that the red line
(yes, the exact same one that goes to the bottom of the EVR\EGR solenoid) goes all the way over
to the vacuum canister on the fender, the vacuum canister stores vacuum for these valves
(TAB, TAD). Then there is a black vacuum line coming out of the vacuum canister next to the
red line that goes all the way back over to the bottom ports of the TAD\TAB solenoids.
From the top of the TAB solenoid a pink hose is run to the valve right next to the smog pump
(I'll show a pic after this rambling paragraph). From the TAD, there's a yellow hose run to
the TAD valve behind the intake manifold.

Here's a pic of a motor that's pulled, just so you can see where the valves are and such;
but you don't have to pull the motor, lord knows I didn't.

You can see the yellow line going to the "diverter" valve (TAD). You can also see
the “bypass” valve (TAB) (you can't see the vacuum line going there, but when you
look at it on your truck you'll see it), plus the EGR and all that other stuff.

Ok, so now that we have an idea of what goes on, let's get started. To avoid confusion,
only run one hose at a time. We need to replace\rerun the red vacuum line, so take a
piece of vacuum hose and run it from the vacuum tree on the intake manifold to
the vacuum canister.

Run it around the back of the engine (I ran it on top of the passenger side valve cover,
under the upper intake plenum). Plug the hose into the vacuum canister where the red
hose plugged into. Here's an overhead pic of how I have my vacuum lines run, you can
also use this to see how to run new (rubber) lines to the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)
and the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor. In all my pics I tried to use the most
sophisticated graphic design program known to man (Paint) to help. I tried to keep the
coloring the same as the original colors, with the exception of the MAP sensor and FPR:

Go back to the driver side of the intake, where the solenoids are, and cut the vacuum line
you just ran so you can put a "T" on it and run a very short vacuum line to the bottom of
the EVR\EGR solenoid:

From the T you connect a short vacuum hose to the bottom of the EVR solenoid, Pic:

Then run a vacuum hose from the top of the EVR solenoid where the green line used to be
(see pic above) to your EGR valve. I ran the hose through the hole in the middle of the
intake plenum, and then ran it up to the EGR:

Now go back to the vacuum canister, and run a vacuum hose from the OTHER plug on the
canister(formerly black line) to the bottom port on the 2 solenoids for TAB\TAD. You will
need another "T" so that you can split the hose into 2 hoses, one for each solenoid.
Kind of hard to see in this pic, you can see the white tip of the T, but it'll make sense
when your doing it:

2 hoses coming from the vacuum canister (A.C. stands for After Canister):

After that, run a hose from the top port on the TAD (front of the 2 solenoids) to the diverter
valve behind the intake plenum (originally it was a yellow hose). Here's a pic, I literally
set my camera on the intake plenum, and took a picture behind it; so it's kind of close up:

Almost done!
All that's left is to run a vacuum hose from the top port of the rear-most solenoid (TAB)
to the valve that’s right by the smog pump. This was the hardest part for me, but I have
fat fingers, and truthfully it wasn't that bad; just annoying. Here's a pic, it might be easier
to plug the hose in from under the truck, but I was able to do it from the top.

Here's the solenoids with the TAD, TAB, and the A.C. (After Canister) line:

That’s it for the SMOG stuff, but if you want to completely do away with all the plastic crap,
you can run a new hose from the vacuum tree straight to the FPR (fuel pressure regulator),
as well as a vacuum hose straight from the vacuum tree to the MAP sensor.
Here's some pics of the whole set up, you can see the hoses going to the solenoids:

If you change out the FPR and the MAP hoses, then you can literally take out the plastic
crap so it doesn't clutter up your engine bay, like I did:



That's pretty much it, now you have a rubber vacuum system!

Thanks goes to WuTang for proofreading\ideas, and thanks to Miesk5 for clarification on what
years this applies to and his never-ending knowledge!

Hi, if the EGR valve, smog pump, diverter valve have been removed from my truck, can I also delete the TAB, TAD, EVR VALVES

 

Didn't get the answer I wanted, but with I beleive I can delete the TAB, TAD, EVR VALVES

 

Yo joeluis736,
Yes, delete all, but read;
"Remove the EGR for a cleaner look and cooler intake air. The EGR system adds heat and carbon deposits to the intake manifold. EGR Valve Position Sensor Eliminators send a 0.50volt CLOSED EGR signal to the computer. The computer then knows the EGR is permanently closed. Keeps the annoying CHECK ENGINE light OFF, and more importantly keeps the engine running smoothly. Guaranteed to work on any 1986-93 5.0L Mustang! Also works on most 1986-95 Ford that uses the Light Gray EGR valve position sensor; which has a closed reading of 0.24 – 0.67 volts. Without this the computer will assume the EGR is stuck open when removed, causing a rough running engine. We can't guarantee these will work on every 1986-95 Ford, but the only other option is a custom chip for the computer, which typically costs $350 or more. While the only option for 1996 and newer Fords is a custom tuned chip for the computer."

Disconnect EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP), and inspect the harness connector. Make sure it’s free of corrosion and still has dielectric grease on the terminals.
Plug the Eliminator into the EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP) harness connector.
Zip tie the eliminator to the engine to protect it from vibration.
This product only eliminates the EGR electrically. Please take the time to remove and cap off vacuum lines. If you are leaving the EGR valve on the intake confirm that it is fully closed. Aleaky EGR will cause more engine problems. It’s best to remove the EGR spacer, or put a block off plate over the opening.
When performing computer Self-Test after installing this kit it is normal to get code:
33 / 332 EGR valve opening not detected.
The computer is acknowledging that the EGR is permanently closed. This is your desired result. However if you get the following codes:
31 / 327 - EVP circuit failed below the closed EGR limit of 0.24 volts
32 / 328 - EVP circuit failed below the closed EGR limit of 0.24 volts
34 / 334 - EVP circuit failed above the closed EGR limit of 0.67 volts
35 / 337 - EVP circuit failed above the open EGR limit of 4.81 volts
Check your connection again; make sure there is no resistance in the harness.
NOTE: This device is not intended for pollution controlled vehicles. Local, State, and Federal laws may prohibit the removal or disabling any emission control device on any emission applicable vehicle. in Eliminator Installation Manual Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) Wayback Machine

Removal; "...What you need to do is electrically plug in the TAB and TAD solenoids but remove the vacuum lines, then all the air injection plumbing and valves can be removed and the heads plugged. The EGR is a seperate system from the Thermactor and the computer treats it very differently, it also helps increase milage and power so it's a good idea to keep it anyway. If you have the DPFE system there is no way to bypass it without the computer knowing and throwing a code so you may as well keep it intact. you'll get codes if you remove the solenoids, the easiest way to avoid this is to just leave them plugged in. The TAB and TAD you could fake out pretty easy, but even the old EGR system can't be faked because the computer both commands valve movement and watches for feedback to confirm it happened, so a dummy resistor won't cut it.
Source: by Conanski

Ryan also sold;
Actuator Eliminator Resistor $2.00 each
75 ohm 3watt Resistors can also be used to eliminate the EVR, CANP, TAB & TAD solenoids.

--
http://web.archive.org/web/20070221131457im_/http://rjminjectiontech.com/images/egr-plate.jpg
EGR Eliminator Plate $40.00

--------
EGR Eliminator 2 $20.00
Comes with terminals ready to be inserted into the harness near the computer. Can be hidden near the computer, for a cleaner look!

NOTE: This device is not intended for pollution controlled vehicles. Local, State, and Federal laws may prohibit the removal or disabling any emission control device such as the EGR system.
========[
EGR Do it yourself MIL Eliminator
You will need to go to radio shack and purchase 3 resistors, two 3.9k ohm 1/2 watt resistor& one 390 ohm k1/2 watt resistor. See attached diagram

 

I’m a little late to this but Im experiencing a constant red flame out the exhaust at idle once it gets about up to running temp and every few seconds a back fire with a blue flame… I just converted all my vacuum to rubber hose and this is all I’ve touched and messed with since it’s started acting up on me and started shooting flames and input or knowledge would be appreciated… thanks
My vehicle in question… 89 Bronco 5.0

 

Yo Pablo,
Welcome!

Timing could be retarded. There could be a lean mixture.
Inspect for broken vacuum lines, and be sure your fuel pressure regulator isn't ruptured; pull the vacuum line off of it, and make sure fuel isn't present or any aroma thereof in that line.
You may also have a clogged catalytic converter.

See my Vacuum leak test in post #11@ See my Vacuum leak test in post #11

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader.....

PCM stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.

Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc.

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual and; release clutch. Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test First. Post Code(s) here according to KOEO and KOER.

A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.

BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS⚠

Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.

Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.
●
Here are the 1989 Ford Bronco EVTM, Emissions (yellowish/red book cover) & Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @
1989 Service manual - Google Drive
Slow scrolling, so download for faster viewing and to see the table of contents, the search feature, etc.

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf found by BroncMom

1989 Ford Bronco Dealer Brochure

1989 Bronco Lubricant Specifications by Ford via Gary

For any Bronco questions, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (50 posts required to participate due to scammers who preyed on our members).

See How to add your Signature @ Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum by BigBlue 94

Forum FAQs includes for example, Hot to Use Search. How To Save (Bookmark) Threads Or Posts, How To Upload Images To Posts and more tips!

➡ Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) includes such as, How do I fix my back window?

Please find time to participate and Vote in our next Full-Size Bronco of the Month Contest and later in the year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing.
Prizes are awarded to Winner!; a full spread in Bronco Driver Magazine is the top prize, in addition to a years subscription, once the article is submitted; also, a years worth of premium FSB membership.
Al

 

Just wanted to reply to say thank you. I did this to my 1991 F150 XLT Lariat 5.0 and it’s running perfectly.

I’d also like to offer that, if, like me, you bought a 5.0 Ford on which the previous owner has deleted the smog pump and catalytic converter, blanking off the top ports of the TAB and TAD solenoids and the diverter valve port on the back of the manifold will make this tutorial work for you. Keep thinking, keep wrenching.

 

Tracing my vacuum lines and I see that it branches to the power brake and then down under my filter and near the radiator on the driver side, but it is capped off. I believe it is where I have placed an arrow on the picture below. Mine is capped off. What is that supposed to be connected to? 1988 Bronco XLT 5.0

 

It goes to a vacuum reservoir (coffee can) for your cruise control vacuum. If it's capped off I would imagine the coffee can is missing. You can grab any vacuum, reservoir from the junkyard, parts store or eBay and connect it back up.

 

That's part of the cruise control system. You don't need it. I've never owned a Bronco that had working cruise. Mine are capped off as well.

 

Sorry to bring up kind of an older thread, but I was directed to this website by a FB post.

I have a 1992 Ford F150 5.8L V8 that has some broken lines that I am being told are vacuum lines. One is red, and the other is yellow. I went to O'Reilly near me and they told me that they do not carry that kind of hard line, that I would have to get it from the Ford dealer. I refuse to do that. What are my options for fixing these broken lines? I am not that savvy when it comes to figuring out what lines go where, I am still trying to figure out the first diagram on the first page of this thread.

I am putting a couple pics for people to see what I am talking about.

 

What are my options for fixing these broken lines?

Start by reading the first post in the thread. No one replaces them with hard plastic lines, unless they can find a full original set not yet degraded, which is why stores don't carry direct replacements.

 

I kinda was thinking that the hard plastic isn't used anymore...
I am having a hard time deciphering what goes where...maybe I just am not seeing it right on my truck. All the different pictures is confusing me I guess.

 

Well, by golly, "Ask and you shall receive" has certainly worked for me!!

I have thought about changing out the vacuum line system on my '96 Eddie Bauer for a long time and wanted to get an idea of what I would need to do. Wow, did I find gold here on the forum! I'll be starting this as soon as possible. Like when the temperature gets down from the 100's to the 80's!

I appreciate the suggestions method's given on this thread.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I thought I would add a little something I learned when rerouting my vacuum hoses with new silicone hose.

There was an earlier post about using multi-colored electrical tape to identify which hose is which, but I think I found something better.

Art Project Tape | Hobby Lobby | 1937838

<p style="margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in;">Polish off your latest project with a bright addition like Art Project Tape. This standard size tape has a bold, solid color. Use it to embellish paper crafts, frames, and more!

www.hobbylobby.com

Hobby Lobby has some stuff called project tape that comes in every color under the sun. It's a couple of bucks per roll, so a bit more expensive than the electrical tape packets. This is like mini-duct tape, but a bit thinner. Easy to wok with. The electrical tape will work fine for most of it, but if you have a pink or orange hose and want neon pink or neon orange tape to positively ID it, this is the way to go.

Pro-Tip: Send your wife to get it. You'll just get frustrated in that store.

 

Or.....
You could get really creative and use colored silicon vacuum hoses. I would be afraid of the tape coming off the hoses over a period of time.

https://www.amazon.com/Autobahn88-P...nZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0Zl9uZXh0JmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

That link I posted has the choice of several different colors. I got several different colors to redo mine. I plan to try and match the decal under the hood with the same color hose as the tubing.

There have been several write ups on this forum that mention colored silicone hoses.

 

It appears as though I have been one-upped. Bravo, sir! I didn't know this existed.

 

Here is what I did when I replaced all of my vacuum lines. I got all silicone matching colors and appropriate sizes for the different barb fittings. I couldn't get pink so I used Blue instead. I used some of the original end fittings depending on what they connected to. I also used various Dorman vacuum "T's". I wrapped it all in large mesh split loom in order to keep it all contained. I wanted to keep it bundled together as close to how the original lines were contained.

 

I just recently bought an 87 Bronco with the 302 with the t18 4 speed in it. Truck runs pretty good and had a lot of new parts put on it. it started to rev high the other day about 1500 and seemed to stay high. Once in gear it would idle down a bit but once I pushed the clutch in it would rev back up high and unless i came out the clutch easy it would hit hard. and continue as i went through the gears. I'm assuming I've got a vacuum leak somewhere. Has anyone had this same issue?