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Discussion starter · #221 ·
Geesh of all things that could go wrong this has to be the biggest pain in the arse. TSB-11-7-18 has been superseded by TSB 11-8-4 with updated parts list and procedure.
 
Best I can tell on build date in 18th of November 2010
Yeah I deciphered it after I posted. It may be just a bad TC seal. If you remember i had it in and out a few times trying to get it set correctly and I probably did some damage when I mated it to the engine the first time because I trusted the kit(like an idiot). I'm not taking any chances. I ordered the entire pump assembly and associated seals. I've already had it down to install the thermal bypass so I am now familiar with the process. This time I will have it on its back so the seals and bypass wont be subject to gravity. Is there a special tool needed to get the pump out or will it slide our fairly easily once unbolted? I think the TSB mentioned something about that. Thanks for the info.
For the record after driving it I am not disappointed at all with the performance improvement. It is not a inexpensive endeavor but worth it IMO especially if you need a trans anyway.

I was also looking at the other adapter kit that came out. The TC spacer is something like 13 lbs. I wonder how much power that robs? it also makes me wonder how strong the standoffs are on the PA kit I have. I have not heard anyone having issues with anything other than the crank spacer.
 
I think it should pull straight out. Be careful going back in don't force it and lube the orings and seals beforehand. I think there are YouTube videos on teardown that shows full pump removal.
Thanks. Tsb stated using petroleum jelly on it going back in. (That's what she said:))
 
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those rpms seem high for your setup. I mean my 94 with the e4od, 35bfg and 4.88's was 2400 rpms at 70 in OD. I would think you should be around 1800 rpms when in 6th gear at 70
 
those rpms seem high for your setup. I mean my 94 with the e4od, 35bfg and 4.88's was 2400 rpms at 70 in OD. I would think you should be around 1800 rpms when in 6th gear at 70
I hope ur right. Trans was still early in learning. We will see when I get it back together.
 

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Here is how I dealt with the pilot extension on #2.

Here is the TC extension Sleeve to align extension for welding.

Donut for pilot extension

Everything getting ready to be welded.



Welded












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Discussion starter · #231 ·
That is a great way to make a pilot bushing manually without having to draw it up and put it in a CNC lathe. I am curious why he didn't try to manually make it one piece. Surface grinding is the best way to insure you achieve the perfect height (depth). It would be good to put it back in the lathe and add some chamfers to the OD and ID.

Note this is only necessary if using the Performance Automatic adapter kit. The Speed Gems kit comes with it's own pilot.
 
He did as I asked. Welded in the middle of the hollow spacer to keep from machining the diameter to clean it up. There is a champher on the spacer just not as dramatic as the pilot had.
I got the idea from some utube video. Although he was adapting LS stuff. Apparently whatever he was adapting had the same stupid spacer this kit has.
One other thing I would reccomend it to make sure you get a thick flexplate that matches the bolt pattern of the converter. I saw some carnage on the classic bronco forum where they wobbled out the holes in a thin stock plate and the flex plate failed, ripping the TC bolts through. The writeup is also in bronco driver magazine. He compares the 2 kits.
 
Here is another update on my PA adapter issues. I stripped the flex plate. After I removed the trans I checked the mesh. Way off. I ordered another starter side of the adapter because I though I may have bent/teaked mine. Same issue.
Here is the mesh without modification. The gap is about .070 off of spec.

Here it is with a .040 drill bit inserted. The gap should be .020-.035 but .040 is the smallest bit I have. I never even checked it originally. I trusted the adaper was correct.

Here is my fix....I left the top starter hole alone and snuck up on the sloting of the bottom hole of my starter flange. I used my dremmel. I set the starter in at the .040 gap and marked the area I needed to grind. I did a little at a time cause you cant put it back. Probably 10 fittings to get it perfect. Although the torque of the starter will pull it to the side I modified, I wasnt happy with the empty part of the slot. I dont want this to move. I drilled and tapped a 10-24 hole for a set screw that I need to go purchase. Here is the result.


Now if I had read through this whole thread including this post, I probably wouldnt have atemped the swap. After driving it with the 6R80 I would do it again. Its that much better. You can also use a different manufaturer now. The PA adaper was all that was available when I started.
I hope my experience helps someone.





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@SHOme how is this holding up?

im acquiring a first gen lightning and debating the swap. The cost of a built e4od behind the motor I’m going to put in far exceeds a 6r80 or 4l80 go transmission. But only hesitation with the 2wd 5.0 6r80 is they’re harder to find in my area. Any idea if they’ve updated the adapters? If I remember right you fought yours.
 
@SHOme how is this holding up?

im acquiring a first gen lightning and debating the swap. The cost of a built e4od behind the motor I’m going to put in far exceeds a 6r80 or 4l80 go transmission. But only hesitation with the 2wd 5.0 6r80 is they’re harder to find in my area. Any idea if they’ve updated the adapters? If I remember right you fought yours.
Trans is awsome now. I havent researched adapters lately. I hear there are a few. I probably will start looking again. I definitely wont use the PA adapter again. After driving mine my dad wants one in his 74 BKO.
 
Oh I have a new transmission in mind other than the 6R80. It's going to get me banned from here.
Oh let’s hear it. I’m considering mating a Chevy 4l80 lol. While retaining the Windsor platform.
 
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