[BigBlue 94]

Flex and TTB *

I fixed it for you 😂

Better than my superduty... Not bad for an out of the box lift kit.

 

[BigBlue 94]

guess i have gotten use to the D50 TTB having no flex.

The flat leaf springs were a joke! I drove a 95 with D50 for quite a while. Rode good with a leveling kit. Was really squirrelly with an 8 ft bed heaping with rock at 60 mph... Cant say i ever flexed it out though

 

[RustProof]

@Kingfish999 , have you made a decision on yours or made additional progress?

It looks like farfromstock doesn't use DOM for their arms. I'm not sure what they're using but it is significantly thinner wall than RuffStuff's kit. I ended up folding and picked up Ruff's kit along with their tie rod kit for the high steer when they had a promotion discount. It was not cheap, but it looks like it's pretty heavy duty stuff and I don't imagine I will ever break it. Now if only I could find the time to get back to the SAS project (which has also been at a stand still because I'm rebuilding a coyote and making a wiring-harness for it to swap into the FSB at the same time as the SAS so I don't have to redo the driveshafts over and over again). Maybe I should start a build thread.

 

[Kingfish999]

no i havent made much progress. still havent driven it yet.

i haven't exactly decided what i want to do. i do want to do the ruffstuff kit at some point but just dont know if i can afford it anytime soon. thats why i wanted to use the existing arms and see how they go

but the brackets i made are very large and look out of place on the truck and hang pretty low. i havent measured caster but it looks about right. but what i will probably do is make another pair of brackets and not make them nearly as big or drop as much. the brackets i made for it ill probably swap on my 88 cause i really dont like the brackets i made for it

i dont have the shocks connected but it seems like its moving ok when i jump on it and push it around

 

[RustProof]

TBH, I dont think your brackets look bad at all. The SD arms are pretty bulky from the side and the brackets you made match. What size tires are those? They look awesome.

 

[RustProof]

Just got my RuffStuff arms in. The manufacturing quality is excellent and the brackets are all quite beefy. The arm DOM section is 38", but it looks like with the brackets on the eye-to-eye measurement will be about 44".

 

[TravisITGuy]

great effort guys, keep up the battle. I really want to go this route as well so I appreciate your efforts and of course part lists.

 

[Kingfish999]

finally got my new rear driveshaft built yesterday and got it in. it was really the last big part of the Superduty axle swap before i can test drive it. problem is i ignored the truck for the last few months so i dont really remeber what i needed to do still. but my excitement too great

so i did my first test drive yesturday a few blocks. so i knew that i did not have any shocks or swaybars installed and i think my coils are very soft. the tires probably had flat spots from sitting. the alignment is not been checked. the truck was VERY bouncy and super sketchy to the point i would not go over 30mph. brakes were sub-par. really had me worried im going to regret this swap

today i rigged some shocks on it. they are too short for long term useage but are enough for me to test it. it helped tremondously. no more bounce. still did not verify alignment. either the tires have a flat spot or there is something warped cause i can defiantly feel it at low speed. the brakes must be starting to wear in because they were better but still not great. the steering is super darty, hard to correct without overcorrecting, and feels like its on the verge of deathwobble. so im assuming the caster is my next problem to address. drove it home for the first time in almost a year and got up to about 45-50mph but with a near deathgrip on the steering.


so i need to find a way to measure the caster on the superduty knuckes. not sure the best way to do so. i will probably do my original idea of drilling or slotting the upper hole of the radius arm mount at the axle, possibly make a DIY eccentric bolt for it to make it adjustable, balljoints can be adjusted for some. i might go ahead and add a steering stabilizer since the Superduty were designed for it.

i might also look into a shorter pitman arm because im wondering if it might help with a few things. i have a saginaw PS pump with the simple pressure/flow mod. but at idle it somewhat struggles to turn the 37x13.5 tires. also i noticed when drivnig that so little steering wheel input is needed to steer, a smaller pitman arm might give more leverage. i dont know how long the pitman arms compare between OBS and Superduty, but i know i had to use a TRE reamer to make the stock pitman arm fit the Superduty draglink. i have a Bluetop box and a Borgeson shaft so there is basically zero slop

im not really sure what to do with the brakes. im using a 2000's F150 disc/disc master cylinder than a 1-1/4" bore. im using a F350 brake booster. the Superduty uses a 1-5/16" bore MC with vacuum, 1-1/2" bore for hydro. the brake pedal feels pretty stiff and doesnt give enough pressure to stop the brakes quickly. but there is also a decent amount of travel in the pedal and i dont want any more. i figuered the 1-1/4" MC would be a good compromise but now i feel like a 1-1/8" MC would give better stopping power. but the trade off would be more brake travel. i really dont want to go to hydroboost if i can help it.

 

[RustProof]

Great updates. Is it possible some grease rubbish got on your pads? The brakes on the 05+ axle are massive. I am shocked you're having bad perf with it.

Could you add an eccentric to the arms mount points on the axle?

 

[Blue1551]

I’m running the stock brake master cylinder with the vacuum boost in my truck and it stops. Great. I can lock them up on the pavement. As it was said 05 super duty brakes are massive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Kingfish999]

then i might go ahready and put in a smaller 1-1/8" bore MC. i was worried the bore would be too small and the brake pedal will have too much travel. i recently swapped my 90 F250 from a 1-1/16" bore to a 1-1/8" bore MC to help solve that issue

my idea of doing new mounting holes on the arms at the axle are not a new idea. ive seen kits that will do an eccentric on either top or bottom mount. they just seem way overcomplicated for a pretty simple idea. slot the bolt hole, weld a couple bars for the eccentric to center between, add an eccentric bolt/washer. should not really be that hard. but there might not be enough room on the front of the tab to weld a bar for the eccentric to go against. i feel like im going to need ALOT of caster so i need to move the hole alot

but even so, if i can do it right the first time, i would have no issue skipping the ecentric and jsut drilling a new hole. might need to weld a washer or nut if the hole is too close to the original hole.

this kit is about 300$ but only alows for about 3* of caster. it does it a the top mount at the axle

BD Cam Caster Adjusting Kit 11-22 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke

Ensure proper suspension alignment after lifting your 2011-2022 Ford Superduty with this adjusting kit from BD Performance.

www.dieselpowerproducts.com

then there is this other kit that extends the lower hole. this looks more fragile of a kit but can do 6* of caster

Control Arm Caster Adjusting Cam Ford 2005-2010 Super Duty F-250/F-350/F-450 Pick-up/Cab-Chassis

Installing BD's Control Arm Cam Caster Adjuster kit on the radius control arms of the Ford 2005-2010 Super Duty pick-ups, correcting the caster is made easie...

us.bddiesel.com

 

[RustProof]

I’m running the stock brake master cylinder with the vacuum boost in my truck and it stops. Great. I can lock them up on the pavement. As it was said 05 super duty brakes are massive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Stock bronco or stock super duty booster and MC?

 

[Kingfish999]

took me like 3 months but i finally got around to modifying my radius arms to fix the caster. i dont remember what my existing caster was at but it was at like -4*. when +4-8 would be ideal. guys with Superduty say that more is better to help controll deathwobble but does cause more tire wear.

i really need a better cammera

so i notched the top of the radius arms some. this lets it go up closer to the axle

i measuered how much angle the radius arm could be angled before hitting something solid. was around 10.5* max but i want to account for clearence of the rubber bushings flexing so i decided to go for 9*. i also did trim the end of the tabs some

i bought some washers that were tight fit on the bolt (think 18mm 10.9 washers). welded a washer to each side of the arm. then drilled the hole using a 3/4" stepped bit which is still pretty tight on the bolts. the bolt holes were about 6-7/8" apart

got them installed and i now have about +5* of caster

i did not drive it yet because the battery is dead. but i think this should be pefectly fine. if i need more or less i can use the alignment bushings on the top balljoint

 

[1979shortbed]

Gonna borrow my buddies degree gauge tomorrow. Hoping my 37s fit alright not as much lift up front as i was hoping i think.

 

[Kingfish999]

you can use an angle finder app on a smartphone. ive done that for years. but these digital angle finders are nice to have and dont cost much

 

[Kingfish999]

@RustProof did you end up getting your Ruffstuff arms done? did you use the frame outriggers? thoughts on the kit?

i think its finally time for me to go to new arms. and im pretty sure the Ruffstuff kit is what im going with. also debating the RYD short arm kit but it is quite abit more expensive and complicated, and says for 0-4" lift

i imagine the RYD kit is stronger using 2 arms per side, possibly less alignment change thoughout the suspensions travel, looks cooler. but i imagine it flexes less, its also kinda bulky

the FarFromStock kit looks exactly like the Ruffstuff kit. they even have Ruffstuff hashtags. but they do list using 0.211" tubing instead of 0.25".

 

[RustProof]

Sadly I have not touched anything on the bronco projects lately.

The ruffstuff arms, although not assembled, appear to be extremely well made and over built in my opinion though. All of the cuts are super clean, the bends in the brackets look perfect, lots of small pieces in their kits used to gusset and triangulate the brackets once assembled, they put cuts and tabs in areas so you can easily weld it, the hardware kits are nicely organized, etc.. I am really impressed with what they sent me and so then I purchased their anti-wrap kit for the 10.5, draglink kit , and panhard bar. Everything is super heavy duty and looks like things around their parts would break first. Check out my coyote swap thread if you want to see a few pictures of the un assembled arms.

The FFS kit I believe is not made from DOM, and the thickness as you mention is significantly lower. It looks like a practical clone from the cad drawings. Seems like it would still be a pretty nice kit.

I was also thinking of doing a 4 link, but looking at the D60s stock form and the arm mount points didnt seem optimal for a 4 link. I'm sure it would work fine as many people use them, just for whatever reason I didn't like that route and figured I would go for a simple radius setup.

 

[6gun]

On my Ranger, I used the factory radius arms extended by about 1' with 2X2X1/4" wall tubing and a 1.25" Heim. Not exactly a flex monster but very stable and bone simple to do! I will probably go the same route when time to do the Bronco!

 

[Kingfish999]

i ordered the Ruffstuff arms along with the frame outriggers just to help reduce any binding. i think one of the pieces are backordered so it might be abit before i get them

 

[Kingfish999]

got the arms today. they are very beefy arms and will do very nicely. 2" x 0.25" wall DOM is going to be very strong

unfortunately they send a wrong sections of DOM tubing. they sent me a sections of 1.5" OD instead of 2" OD. so they are going to have to send me that. thats the second time Ruffstuff sent me wrong DOM, think they would learn because shipping that cant be cheap