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Best Repairs for Roof and Rain gutter Cracks

35K views 37 replies 23 participants last post by  TravisITGuy  
#1 ·
I've been reading the threads on here and have been trying to decide on how best to repair my cracks/leaks. I have considered using seam sealer or lead, etc. What I need is to see results of people who have done permanent repairs and see how they have held up. Any problems, etc. Since it is such a common problem, maybe we could post a sticky, conjoining all the threads concerning roof/gutter cracks?
 
#2 ·
On both my prior 87 and 94, I bought JB Weld, mixed it properly, cleaned all of the debris & rust from the cracks and completely filled in all of the drip rail cracks. The product held up exactly as if the cracks were welded shut - they never reopened and it was a very inexpensive fix. If you want to get really professional w/ it, you can also sand it down (if applied heavy) and prep/paint too - it holds up as if it were metal.
 
#3 ·
I'm gonna have to give that a shot. Mine are cracked along almost the entire length of the gutter.

I've also considered "shaving" the gutters, less for aesthetics but more for being absolutely sure that they don't come back open. Of course, that would also require repainting the whole truck...
 
#4 ·
Just to note - the JB Weld will dry a gray color (for those wondering).

It does work and I applied mine pretty heavy when repairing both prior Broncos. I pushed it down into all of the cracks using a Q-tip and then using a small paint brush, I used that to smooth and to spread out the excess evenly through the entire surface of the drip rails. It even works if you have cracks forming at the end of the drip rail onto the B-pillar (towards front of cap). It dries really quick too. JB Weld can be sanded, prepped (primed) and painted....

It can be found in NAPA, Pep Boys, WalMart, Kmart, Auto Zone, Advance Auto, Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, etc etc etc.
 
#11 ·
I know the kit is no longer available, but I'm wondering if it actually worked. I could make the metal pieces to reinforce the cab. Also would like to see long-term results on the it. What about long term on the JB weld? How long have you had it on there?
 
#12 ·
rian gutter cracks


============
Sorry no quicky fixes. I have tried them all.
Solution:
Cage
Cut out the metal beyond the cracks and replace, grind, bondo, paint
The truck is so flexy none of the glue methods will work. That includes the Ford glue method.
If you don't want to cut out the old metal just put on a big patch, grind, bondo, paint. Without the cage who knows if anything will work??

BTW, my most sucssesful quick fix was a thick layer of clear silicone. It kept the water out for a couple of years. The cracks kept increasing, but more silicone helped. Ugly!
PW
 
#14 ·
I'm not necessarily looking for a "quick fix". I want to make it more permanent. I also have leakage around the top corner of the windshield, which looks like it could be from the body joints, along with the windshield glue, itself. The top of the A/C box leaks leaks where it meets the firewall, but that is an easy fix with a fat bead of RTV and there are body seam leaks under the cowl panel. When I lived in NM, it was never a problem; very little rain. Even when I was in AL it wasn't bad, because it was driven daily. While it was sitting in TN was where I found a crapload of leaks, due to wet and moldy carpet.
 
#17 ·
Had my windshield replaced when we first got it. A month or two later I noticed a leak.
I took it back to the glass company that installed it. He told me it was a common problem with them. His fix was clear fingernail polish.

Yeah you heard right. Never been off-road much till last year with it. So not as much body-flexing as a lot of ya. But had forgot about it until now.

Knock on wood. No problems in 5 years.
 
#19 · (Edited)
yo,
A multitude of problems incl, water danage, then rusting of roof, drip rails, "Sail Panel", B Pillar (as you now have), then electrical prob at base of B pillar driver's side; connectors for dome light, seat belt retractor damage....

-----
Roof & Pillar Cracks Damage pics in an 81
Source: by Larry S (The Bronc, Larston, Lars915, Lars) at geocities via web.archive.org Body Damage
See the site for more pics and in proper order bec. my isp is so slow, I can't recall where each pic shoud be placed due to the lag time
Larry describes it as; "...Ford even had a TSB out about this problem for a few years. I've heard that their repair left a lot to be desired, I've never seen it done myself. It appears that the B-pillar, or rear of the door opening frame, becomes a focal point for stresses in the body. The stresses are introduced when the rear of the frame moves with the suspension and transfers stress forward along the bed sides and into the B-pillar. This stress also attempts to spread the bed sides as shown in the pictures below. When these stresses dissipate through the B-pillar, the pillar tries to move separate from the cab section and causes the body seams at the roof, along the pillar, and at the floor pan to warp and separate. As the seams continue to degenerate, stress becomes distributed to the windshield frame (A-pillar) and back along the cargo floor seams. The end result, after years of severe abuse, is that the roof isn't held on by much any more, the windshield is leaking, the body walls move separately from the floor pan, and things are getting pretty unsafe.

Here are some pictures of the damage on the Bronc. I am sorting through options to heavily modify the body (remove the back and put on a flatbed) or to replace the body with a pickup cab and flatbed. The first option will require rewelding the body seams, which isn't too difficult to do, and I wouldn't have to give up my Bronco title by changing out the body.
The first picture is the top of the driver's windshield post. Stress cracks here are bad. It's only a matter of time before the windshield breaks. The second picture is the inner seam on the B-pillar just above the seatbelt mount. The seam is completely broken and the upper panel moves separately from the lower panel.
Image

The first picture shows where the drip rail is pulling away from the roof. This crack extends to the back of the cab as shown in the next set of pictures. The second and third pictures show the cracked body seam on the outside of the driver's B-pillar and how it extends to the back of the cab section.
The first picture shows how the infamous Bronco Crack progresses into an actual tear in the B-pillar panel extending toward the door fram. The second picture is the roof arch on the driver's side. The flange is tearing away from the roof structure and tearing towards the roof. The third picture shows how the damage is migrating to the inner roof panel.

Wayback Machine
The first picture shows the crack growing along the driver's rear cargo floor starting at the floor pan kickup right behind the driver's seat. The rusty bulge also appears on the passenger side. I cannot tell what is causing these.The second picture shows the driver' side rear seat reinforcement pulling away from the floor pan. The third picture shows the lower part of the B-pillar itself pulling away from the floor pan.

http://web.archive.org/web/20041029004054/http://www.geocities.com/lars915/Images/LeftB5_small.jpg
Passenger side inner B-pillar cracks. These are much worse than the driver's side at this time. If you look closesly at the second picture, you can see that the upper panel has actually slipped down and over the lower panel.
http://web.archive.org/web/20041029004054/http://www.geocities.com/lars915/Images/LeftB5_small.jpg


Image

Notice the misalignment on the passenger door.
Image

The passenger side B-pillar pulling away from the floor pan.
The first and last pictures show the sidewalls of the bed bulging out from folding of the C-pillar. The center two pictures show how the bedsides have spread at the top.The right side has been pulled back in several times now to get the tailgate to latch.

These pictures have given me a new motto: If you aint tearing it apart, you ain't wheelin' it hard enough!

=
I have a bunch of various repair Links in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1140
 
#20 ·
miesk5 said:
--
Here is that TSB again....
Thanks, but I was really looking to see if those cracks cause a clicking sound as well. I've got a clicking sound coming from the top of the driver's door b-pillar whenever I turn or go over bumps, and I'm thinking it maybe cracked metal hitting against the other side?
 
#21 ·
yo, yw & maybe... there could be all kinds of rusted/contorted metal pieces up there.

I had to remove the long screw from the cab to camper top (center) "joint" because it was rubbing against the cab metal inner roof section; expansions strips and bumps caused it to screetch,, a death screech that was too much to bear. See Screw #9 for Roof Trim Rear Moulding Joint Cover 518B34 in diagram below by Ford via Steve83
and for you, mabye screw #8 in - 1 Roof Trim Rear Moulding 517C04 ?
or screw #3 in Quarter Window Garnish Lower Front Moulding 29004

Also, it could be seat belt anchor point? or interior trim panel screws along B pillar edge
 
#24 ·
I've also considered "shaving" the gutters, less for aesthetics but more for being absolutely sure that they don't come back open.
Yeah a friend of mine who has several Broncos told me shaving the gutters off would fix the problem but he was not able to explain why. It didn't sound right to me, tho.
 
#25 ·
That does make some sense, because the gutter is making one side of the seam stiffer than the other. If one side can flex and the other can't it will seperate, its just a matter of time. If both sides flex evenly then its less likely to seperate.

Personally I need to do some work on mine. I don't have time so I will just fill it with silicone for now. I should have time in a few months to grind and weld until better than factory. I plan to keep the gutters and add metal bracing inside and weld, then fill the gutter on the outside.
 
#26 ·
spread the load over a larger area, spread the stress over a larger area....I am doing this by:
1.cleaning cracked areas
2.adding thicker sheetwetal to the interior portion of sheetmetal...and welding the material to the existing metal.

There are welds on the exterior that will be smoothed. But the idea was to strengthen the cracked areas via keeping the area from flexing too much.
 
#27 ·
I read all the threads too

then I did a little research around my area and found a guy who still worked in lead. I paid the guy and he sandblasted the top of the four pillars and welded in patches then floated in hot lead.

That was six salty Ontario Winters ago and not a hint of rust damage since.

Not only does lead not rust, but wherever it is (and air isn't) there ain't-a-gonna-be any rust forming.

If you can afford it lead is THE answer IMHO. BTW you can buy kits from Eastwood and they're fairly reasonable too.

Lead is easy to work with, just not all that great for your health. IIRC Eastwood has "lead free" lead now too.

Sixlitre

p.s./
Here's the thread for my A-pillars

http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/2bigbroncosdixie/users/users/registry/4970/20690
 
#35 ·
I've never had my hard top off in the 10 years I've owned my BKO and I have a crack there on the drivers side at the end of the drip rail and some of the drip rail is gone from rust though it's too noticeable but more annoying you know.

I also have some rust along the end of the roof line on top opposite the hard top so I need to get after that some how, there's not much room to work right there.....IDK.

I tried using JB weld there but it didn't last too long but maybe I will try it again, I have the quick setting JB Weld so we'll see how that works..

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
#36 ·
JB weld wont work , it's to stiff and has no ductility whatsoever, as soon as you flex it a bit it will crack. you need a flexible sealant that won't crack, cold weld won't work.
 
#38 ·
just use that spray sealer i see advertised on TV, and it comes in Black, grey and Clear lol.