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F-350 Brake Booster & Master Cylinder in an '85

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11K views 13 replies 9 participants last post by  TravisITGuy  
#1 ·
Well, seeing as how nobody has done a write-up on this, I will. :toothless

As everybody else has said, it is a direct swap. I got a booster and master cylinder for a '85 F-350. I ran some numbers and it appears that '83-'86 F-250's (any engine and 8600+ GVW) and '83-'86 F-350 (all engines) are the same. I looked for some used stuff, but ended up getting a good deal on new stuff.

Oh, and the reason for doing this is because my master cylinder was leaking internally under hard braking, causing a soft pedal and the brake light to come on. My full write-up is here.

Booster and master cylinder:

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Cardone remanufactured booster #54-73355:

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Raybestos new master cylinder #MC39445:

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Remove the master cylinder:

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Remove the booster:

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Install the new booster:

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The new booster is about 1" thicker:

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Install the new master cylinder:

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I bought an adapter fitting that everybody said was needed for the front brake line (the Bronco was supposed to be 3/16 and the F-350 1/4), but I didn't need it. The new master cylinder had a 3/16 front fitting, so that was fine. My rear line had a 5/16 fitting on it, so I cut that off and re-flared a 3/16 one on.



All done:

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Because of the extra thickness of the new booster, I had to make a new bracket for my OBA oil separator; it was touching the end of the master cylinder.

After bleeding the brakes, I took her for a test drive. I still can't lock up the tires, but it does take less pedal pushing effort to stop the truck, and after wheeling today, I did notice the extra braking ability coming down rocks and hills.

This was a worth-while modification. :thumbup
 
#2 ·
Good work. The only suggestion I have is to at least mention bench bleeding the master cylinder before you install it.

Also, just for reference. On my 86 I ordered stuff for an 86 F350 and ended up needing a different size fitting for the rear MC port (the one furthest from the booster). Can't remember the sizes though... It isn't a big deal or expensive to get a cutter, flaring kit and the fitting though. I just bought a short length of premade brake line and cut one end to take the fitting off since I couldn't find anybody that just sold the fittings.

When I did this I also used F350 wheel cylinders and completely flushed the brake lines to put all new fluid in. It's a good time to replace the wheel cylinders and completely flush the system since it doesn't cost much more. If you are afraid of drum brakes (seriously, get a drum brake tool kit) I'd still suggest flushing the system even if you don't change the wheel cylinders. I can't comment on whether the F350 wheel cylinders show an improvement over stock since my rear brakes barely worked before but now I can lock up the rear tires.
 
#12 ·
The only suggestion I have is to at least mention bench bleeding the master cylinder before you install it.
Good point. You should also bleed all 4 corners too. I just figured that was a given.



Bronco Boy - can you give us cost estimates on the new stuff (Master and Booster).
The booster was $105 and the master was $37.59 with a $40.00 core charge. These are Canadian prices, and through my connections I buy below jobber pricing, so these prices should be close to what you guys can buy in the US for.



make sure everything is bled out well... get the f350 wheel cylinders if you can... t bird calipers???

i had tbird calipers and f350 wheel cylinders with my 350 booster/mc... i could lock up the 35's at 40 mph on dry pavement
This is where I hate the inconsistency's; I have a 14 bolt, so big brakes, along with the 8 lug D44, so dual piston calipers and bigger rotors, and I still can barely lock them up.

Hmm, maybe I should get some T-Bird calipers next.
 
#3 ·
Bronco Boy - can you give us cost estimates on the new stuff (Master and Booster). Pantsman...did you go used or new? If used what was your cost! This might be a worthwhile swap after I get the rest of my truck restoed. Thanks in advance! Thanks for the part#s also! :thumbup
 
#4 ·
I bought all "new" (read: reconditioned) stuff. If I remember correctly it all came out to about $150 including the booster, master cylinder, both wheel cylinders, rear shoes and fluid I believe... I don't think that included the tools (drum brake kit, dual flare kit and tube cutter)... I probably have the receipts shoved in my filing folder with everything else for the Bronco but it was around $150 and worth every penny.

A lot of people just change the booster and call it good. it's debated whether changing the master cylinder and wheel cylinders makes any difference, I just did it because my master cylinder was leaking and I wanted to flush the system so I just went ahead and replaced everything except the lines. Like I said, I don't fool around when it comes to brakes.

Edit: Here is a price list of what I got (if I remember correctly) from partsamerica.com (ie schmucks)

Cardone Booster ~ $75
Cardone Master Cylinder ~ $40
Raybestos Wheel Cylinders ~ $10 each x 2 = $20
Brake Shoes ~ $15+ depending on how fancy you want them, I'm pretty sure I just got Napa "tru-stops" which are $15 or so

Throw in fluid and the fitting if you need it plus tax and you are probably right around $150 to do what I did.
 
#6 ·
make sure everything is bled out well... get the f350 wheel cylinders if you can... t bird calipers???

i had tbird calipers and f350 wheel cylinders with my 350 booster/mc... i could lock up the 35's at 40 mph on dry pavement

dc
 
#7 ·
DC

What's different about T-bird calipers ? and what year do you order ?

I put a new booster on my 86' days after I bought it in 98', but that was 10 years ago. I may do this just as PM

Great write up and tips. Love all the 86' pics !:thumbup

Sixlitre
 
#13 ·
I bought an adapter fitting that everybody said was needed for the front brake line (the Bronco was supposed to be 3/16 and the F-350 1/4), but I didn't need it. The new master cylinder had a 3/16 front fitting, so that was fine.
Did the exact same thing with my swap and ran into the same situation on my '95. I don't know if that's just misinformation about the measurements or what. That's why I keep a reciept for everything until it's actually used or installed. I got the mc and booster for a '95 3-fitty, by the way. Probably the same.
After bleeding the brakes, I took her for a test drive. I still can't lock up the tires, but it does take less pedal pushing effort to stop the truck, and after wheeling today, I did notice the extra braking ability coming down rocks and hills.

This was a worth-while modification. :thumbup
Same here. My pedal got a lot more responsive, and it took way less effort on the trail. This mod is too easy and too effective not to do, especially if you've got dual-piston calipers and bigger tires. Good writeup.
 
#14 ·
sorry to bring back such an old thread. My brake booster has a hiss when I depress the brakes and a clunk as well. My master cylinder is fine though, can I just upgrade the booster to the F350 model and run 1ton wheel cylinders? This is on my 94 bronco, running 35" tires.