After ~15 years & 300Kmi, mine aren't deformed at all, and the washers didn't spin (before I pulled them apart last week).



Is the nylon spacer split? Does it look like the RA bracket lip is cutting into the rear bushing?

 

Mine have always been loose also. (nuts bottomed out) It has always bugged me. (doesnt seem right) But I dont have a vibration. I really cant see how it would cause a vibration. I could see it causing some pulling when appling brakes.

 

Steve its all new except the nut. New washers bushings and nylons. Only got about 100miles on the new setup maybe its a rancho extended ra flaw that there isnt enough threads idont know.
And helrich its not so much a vibration as it feels like the front end is going to fall off. Just put in a new drag link today because i found it bad and thought it would cure it but it didnt. Ive bin all over the front of this rig and the only other thing it could be is a bent rim. But i doubt that it hasnt seen any sort of hard action.

So far ive got new ra bushings, new ra's, coils, shocks, drag link. Fixed a crack near the stearing box, the x member rivet is tight, the ball joints and tie rods are all in good shape, even the ttb bushings are ok. Toe in/out is spot on and using an angle finder camber is within spec. I cant see the caster being bad. Im at a lose right now.

 

If you suspect a bent rim, just jack it up and spin the wheel. You can usally see a bent rim like that. If your still in doubt, put something close to the wheel. Like a piece of wood on a 5 gal bucket. If you have it about 1/4" away from the rim, it's easy to see a wobble.

 

vibration

Vibration could be anything. Loose radius bushing make a clunk when going over bumps.

 

I'd be looking at axle pivot bushings, steering linkage, wheel bearings, & tire roundness.

 

yo; This from the 96 Bronco Workshop Manual; same for your year;
Installation

Clean all the mating surfaces between the radius arm, axle and bracket prior to reassembly.

Position the forward washer and insulator on the rear of the radius arm and insert the radius arm into the frame bracket.

Position the rear spacer, insulator and washer on the radius arm and loosely install the attaching nut.

Position the radius arm, forward shock mount bracket (quad shock equipped vehicles) and front axle-to-radius arm bracket on the axle.

NOTE: New stud and bolt are required because of the adhesive coating on the original bolts. If new fasteners are not available, thoroughly clean the old fasteners and apply Loctite® No. 242 or equivalent to the threads of the fasteners.



Loosely install a new stud and bolt attaching the radius arm to the axle.

Tighten the radius arm rear attaching nut to 113-153 Nm (84-112 lb-ft).

Install and tighten the bracket-to-axle attachment screws to 34-46 Nm (26-33 lb-ft).

Tighten the radius arm to axle lower bolt to 434-461 Nm (320-340 lb-ft) and the upper stud type bolt to 326-351 Nm (240-260 lb-ft).

Position the spring lower seat with the locating tab positioned in the radius arm notch spring insulator.

Using Rotunda Hi-Lift Jack 164-R3508 or equivalent, raise axle until front coil spring (5310) is resting on lower spring seat.

Install lower spring retainer and nut. Tighten to 94-134 Nm (70-100 lb-ft).

NOTE: It is important that the attaching bolt be installed with the head toward the tire to maximize clearance to brake system components.



Position the front shock absorber to the lower bracket. Install the attaching bolt and nut and tighten to 71-100 Nm (52-74 lb-ft).

Connect the front stabilizer bar to the front stabilizer bar link (5K483), if equipped. Tighten nut to 71-100 Nm (52-74 lb-ft).

Install front disc brake calipers if removed. Inspect brake hydraulic lines for damage. Refer to Section 06-03.

Install the front wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04.

Lower vehicle and, with the weight on the suspension, tighten axle pivot bushing bolt and nut to 163-203 Nm (120-150 lb-ft).

= -------------------- =============

and for posterity;
Removal

Refer to illustrations under Spring, Coil, F-150 and Bronco, in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.

Raise the vehicle and position safety stands under the frame side rails and a jack such as Rotunda Hi-Lift Jack 164-R3508 or equivalent under the axle.

Remove the front wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04.

Disconnect the front stabilizer bar (5482) at the stabilizer link, if equipped.

Remove the shock absorber-to-lower bracket attaching bolt and nut and pull the front shock absorber (18124) free of the radius arm.

On vehicles equipped with quad front shock absorbers, remove the attaching nut and forward shock lower mount from the stud on the bracket.

Remove spring lower retainer attaching bolt from inside of the spring coil.

Loosen the axle pivot bolt.

Remove radius arm-to-frame bracket nut.

Remove the radius arm rear plastic spacer and insulator.

CAUTION: When lowering the axle, the axle must be supported on the jack throughout radius arm removal and installation, and must not be permitted to hang by the front brake hose (2078). If the length of the front brake hose is not sufficient to provide adequate clearance for removal and installation of the spring seat, the disc brake caliper (2B120) must be removed from the spindle. Refer to Section 06-03. After removal, the disc brake caliper must be placed on the frame or otherwise supported to prevent suspending the disc brake caliper from the caliper hose. These precautions are absolutely necessary to prevent serious damage to the tube portion of the caliper hose assembly.

Lower the axle, remove the lower spring retainer, insulator and spring seat and allow the axle to move forward.

Remove the two bolts attaching the front axle to radius arm bracket to axle tube.

Remove spring retainer, insulator, lower spring seat and stud.

Remove radius arm bracket-to-axle tube bolt.

Remove the front axle radius arm bracket.

Move the axle forward and remove the radius arm from the axle. Remove the radius arm from the frame bracket

 

yo,
Noise, Vibration, Harshness, Ride, Squeak & Rattles TSB 99-11-1 for 95-97 F 250, F 350, SD; 95-99 Econoline, Explorer, F 150, F 250, Ranger, Villager, Windstar and Many Others, Except that Ford Left Out Our Bronco

 

My Rancho R/A's have a spacer that goes over the threaded shaft, which in turn shortens the amount of threads exposed after all the bushings are installed.

In what way can R/A issues cause a brake pull? I have a sharp pull to the right when I quickly tap the brakes at freeway speeds. If I apply the brakes gradually they seem to work fine. I have checked just about everything that can cause a brake pull and everything checked out ok.

 

In what way can R/A issues cause a brake pull?

If the arms can move and they both are moved forward (because you backed up and applied the brakes) Then you are driving fast and hit the brakes. One side may hang up and the other could slam back causing that tire to move back. I know it would only move a little, but at high speed, it could make a differnce.

 

If the RAs are the same length & the front bushings are in the same condition, they won't cause brake pull. If the bushings are loose, they can cause a pull in 4WD, but you're not likely to notice it because of where 4WD gets used.

IDK why anyone would build a RA that needs a spacer, but I have to assume that's what's wrong with JBfab's.

 

Well jacked up the front and the wheels have about 1/16th runout which i would assume is normal for aftermarket alum wheels. Tested out the ball joints again there all good.

Meisk5 all surfaces where de rusted and painted before reassembly, new studs were used and torqued properly. I paint everything before it goes on the truck no mater how small.

Jscatt Did those come with your arms? Or were they installed when you got the truck? Can you give me a length of yours, looks to be an inch but is hard to tell. I can make a set out of some DOM if rancho doesnt have them.

I hope this will help, dont mind moving my wheel forward alittle more.

 

Mine are 1/2" long. They were on the arms when I pulled them off the truck at the J/Y. I have the newer type arms with the bend in them, if that makes a difference.
This spacer may be what you need to get your arms tightened up correctly.
I referred to Ranchos' install directions to make sure I had the correct measurements before I installed, which called for the OEM brackets to be mounted 15" from the originals

 

You should - ANY change in position will have a BIG effect on alignment, ride, handling, tire wear...

 

Well if this spacer is needed and isnt there then my wheels are in the wrong place right now, then when i get said spacer installed will be in the proper position, and hopefully cure my issues.

Just sent rancho an email. Ill let ya'll know what they say when they reply.

 

My Rancho's have the same Gold/Brass spacer and my Poly bushings bottom out also at 100 lbs with all new spacers, washers, bushings, etc. I have been toying with putting the stock rubber one's back in for more droop and to see if they reach torque specs before they bottom out ....oh, and I have the newer bended arms and they are 15" back from stock too. The washers are tight and my only concern has been that the nuts bottom out but I think that is because they are Poly bushings. I believe Poly bushings are always torqued less than stock rubber bushings and my rule of thumb is to pick the middle setting if given a range like 80-120 lbs I'd go with 100. That way I always know where I torqued pretty much anything because I always follow the same (split the difference) rule of thumb.

 

By the way, did you just install these?

 

when i get said spacer installed will be in the proper position, and hopefully cure my issues.

If the truck was aligned without the spacers, adding them will require a fresh alignment. And I wouldn't take it to the same place that aligned it without them - they obviously didn't do step 1 of an alignment: INSPECTION. No telling what ELSE they skipped.

see if they reach torque specs before they bottom out

The nut should ALWAYS hit the end of the threads before reaching torque.

 

Yeah these were installed about two months ago with a new set of lift coils. The truck sees very little street time as it is uninspected at the moment. Before i did all the work i put the truck on level hard surface and took alot of measurements. Used an angle finder to check camber (crud but effective) and higth. After install did the same thing, gained 3/4" hight and almost 1/2 degree of positive camber over my baseline. Too little imho to warrent an alignment, not to mention i have a set of cut and turned beams almost ready to go on with new ball joints and cams. No sence in getting two alignments in a short time till everything is installed. But besides that i cant see the alignment being my problem. Gunna try these spacers and go from there if it still does it im going after the stearing box, cuz at that point everthing else has bin gone over or replaced.

 

There are a lot of guys on here that purposely mount the R/A bracket an inch or so forward of where its suppose to be for wheel centering reasons. I think Gacknar is one of them

 

Yeah an angle finder wont work to give yourself a perfect alignment. But i will help me figure out which cams to get before i get my alignment instead of taking a shot in the dark. Or playing the back and forth game. Hell i bet i could get it in the ballpark before taking it to the alignment shop using just an angle finder and my trusty tape measure.

 

But i will help me figure out which cams to get...

Get these:



I'm looking forward to seeing Rich's 3D CAD rendering of the TTB that's accurate to a thousandth of an inch. opc1: Hopefully, he'll do it in 4D (with motion).

 

Start by getting those bushings so you can get your R/A bushings torqued to spec

 

I was going to get the ones from jbg that look similar to those but now that i have a moog part number i can get them local at napa. Thanks steve. Happen to recall what they charged you for those?

 

Did you read the caption? They didn't charge me - they charged makeos. He asked me to install a set in his 2WD F150 along with some other stuff a couple of years ago, and those were part of my payment. I was gonna install mine today, but the sunburn I got yesterday hurts through my shirt just walking in the sun, so I haven't touched the truck.

 

Must have got past me the first time. $30 each rockauto. It was a hot one here today too, heat index of 105+ and humidity you could cut with a knife. 9 hours later the mind starts to melt aswell.

 

The way i look at it is that i move the ra up 1/2" using the spacer it will put my wheel in the proper position In the wheel well since my bushings are loose. Right now without taking a measurement the are most likely 1/2" to far back. Guess ill pull the tape out tommorow and see. IIRC i should be at 140". Yes 140" im in a centurion for those not following at home.

Btw two days gone by and nothing from rancho, ill call them if i dont get anything by tommorow. Also had to yell at summit today. Got "red" 3/8 pipe caps that are burgandy or dark purple anodized not red. Lets see what they have to say about that.

 

Were your R/A brackets moved back the correct distance? Should have been moved back exactly 15" from the original bracket position.
It pretty much seems that the 1/2" spacer being missing is your "looseness" problem.

Summit has real good customer service so you shouldn't have a problem there!!

 

It might... :shrug But without a full-on alignment to check, we can only guess.

You can only guess because you dont understand simple geometry.

Just STOP. You're going so far into the realm of pointlessness that it's POINTLESS! What happens when you take the suspension apart has NO BEARING on how it works when he's driving.

Your the one that said that these things dont locate the wheel. Just trying to help you understand. Your also the one that was talking about changing bushings for ball joints and removing springs and shocks, folding the suspension 45 degrees! Talk about pointless.

No, if you check the first post in this thread, you'll find that it's about how the suspension MOVES.

NO, The first post is about how tight the RA bushings are.

If it was stationary, it wouldn't be called a "suspension"; and certainly not an "independent" one. It would be a "buckboard"....and THAT's what this branch of the thread is about.

Thats what you dont seem to get. We are not changing the way it will move.

You said moving the suspension (with a spacer) WOULDN'T affect the steering.Now, you're saying it WILL.

You didnt copy my whole quote. You started this by saying

"ANY change in position will have a BIG effect on alignment, ride, handling, tire wear."

So let me state it clearly for you. A 1/2" spacer will not have a big effect on alignment, ride,handling and tire wear. In fact, I'm sure he wont notice it at all. Except maybe solve his problem, if loose bushing is causing it.

PS: Do you realize how immature you look when you insert all those little happy faces in your posts?

 

PS: Do you realize how immature you look when you insert all those little happy faces in your posts?

Yep. :toothless opc1: :goodfinge :thumbup

But I haven't contradicted myself.