Hello, havent been on it quite awhile. Got my Bronco running back in June and all has been good til a few days ago.First off i dont use my Bronco to mud or rough it up at all. It gets taken care of, no abuse! On the 21st,i was oming home from work and got about half way home when the issue come up. I let off the gas due because the car in fornt was turning, the gears started making bad winding/grinding noise. I wasnt for sure what it was, so i said to myself, that sounds like the TC jumped out of 2wd. I tried to push forward on the TC handle, no movement, truck went back to 2wd though. As long as i am accelerating, the truck will or did not make any noise, only when i let off to come to a stop or coast with no load on driveline. I have to keep pressure on the shifter handle to keep in 2wd or otherwise it spins what sounds like the low range gears and grinds bad. Any help?? Thanks
Bullet20XD
If you almost never use the t-case linkage it often gets rusty and then binds up when you do use it. Grocery getters in places where it snow never sticks and they salt the roads are very susceptible to this.
With a BW1356 (and the accompanying style of shift linkage)The case goes into 4H or N with a lot of effort and then the shifter breaks when you try to go to 2H from 4H or 4H/4L from N (usually by putting your foot on the knob and pushing, a corroded shifter doesn't go easy). I blame a lot of this on the guide plate being poorly thought out and adding a lot of resistance if the system is rusty/corroded. As well as breaking shifters, this situation makes it easy to bend forks, which sounds like it might be your problem (bent range fork might be grinding the low-range gears unless you push on it).
The common linkage for the BW1345 doesn't have these problems.
If you have lots of miles on your t-case there's a possibility that the oil pump failed and that's what's causing your problems but I wouldn't bet on that since everything you described can be caused be failure of some part of the shift linkage external or internal to the case.
I'm basically talking out my ass. Anyone with more info/experience is encouraged to contribute.
With a BW1356 (and the accompanying style of shift linkage)The case goes into 4H or N with a lot of effort and then the shifter breaks when you try to go to 2H from 4H or 4H/4L from N (usually by putting your foot on the knob and pushing, a corroded shifter doesn't go easy). I blame a lot of this on the guide plate being poorly thought out and adding a lot of resistance if the system is rusty/corroded. As well as breaking shifters, this situation makes it easy to bend forks, which sounds like it might be your problem (bent range fork might be grinding the low-range gears unless you push on it).
The common linkage for the BW1345 doesn't have these problems.
If you have lots of miles on your t-case there's a possibility that the oil pump failed and that's what's causing your problems but I wouldn't bet on that since everything you described can be caused be failure of some part of the shift linkage external or internal to the case.
I'm basically talking out my ass. Anyone with more info/experience is encouraged to contribute.
yo B,
As arse advised!!
The usual Bronco Maintenance Schedule suggests (Normal Sched) @ every 15,000 MILES;
Lubricate transfer case shift lever pivot bolt and control rod connecting pins (4x4).
Inspect and lubricate automatic transmission shift linkage.
30,000 MILES
Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
Inspect engine cooling system, hoses, and clamps; and check coolant strength every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months.
Replace air cleaner filter every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 30 months. If operating in dusty conditions, consult your dealer and/or follow severe duty maintenance schedule.
Replace crankcase emission air filter. If operating in dusty conditions consult your dealer and/or follow severe duty maintenance schedule. (4.9L, 5.0L man. trans., and 7.5L only.)
Change automatic transmission fluid. NOTE: Except C6 and E4OD transmissions.
Lubricate transfer case shift lever pivot bolt and control rod connecting pins (4x4).
Inspect disc brake system, lubricate caliper slide rails.
Inspect drum brake systems, hoses and lines.
Inspect and lubricate front wheel bearings.
Inspect parking brake system for damage and operation.
Lubricate throttle kickdown or TV lever ball
studs.
Lubricate front axle R.H. axle shaft slip yoke
(4x4).
Inspect and lubricate spindle needle bearings (4x4).
Inspect and lubricate hub locks (4x4).
Change fuel filter (Recommended but not required for California Certified Vehicles
60,000 MILES
Change transfer case otl
"...Manual Hub OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS: ONLY use fingers to turn dials. DO NOT USE PLIERS. Set the hublock dials to “FREE” and transfer case to 2-high for all driving that does not require four wheel drive. To engage four wheel drive set the hublock dials to “LOCK” and set the transfer case to 4-high or 4-low. Return the transfer case to 2-high before disengaging hublocks. Do not drive on hard surface roads in 4-wheel rive because it can cause drive train damage. Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between “FREE” and “LOCK” or it will damage the hublocks. Driving with only one hublock engaged can cause drive train damage. Driving with the hublocks in ”FREE’’ and transfer case in 4-low can cause drive train damage. To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..."
Source: by Warn® http://warn.iwebcat.com/imgVD/WAR/61420C0-pn20990.pdf
As arse advised!!
The usual Bronco Maintenance Schedule suggests (Normal Sched) @ every 15,000 MILES;
Lubricate transfer case shift lever pivot bolt and control rod connecting pins (4x4).
Inspect and lubricate automatic transmission shift linkage.
30,000 MILES
Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
Inspect engine cooling system, hoses, and clamps; and check coolant strength every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months.
Replace air cleaner filter every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 30 months. If operating in dusty conditions, consult your dealer and/or follow severe duty maintenance schedule.
Replace crankcase emission air filter. If operating in dusty conditions consult your dealer and/or follow severe duty maintenance schedule. (4.9L, 5.0L man. trans., and 7.5L only.)
Change automatic transmission fluid. NOTE: Except C6 and E4OD transmissions.
Lubricate transfer case shift lever pivot bolt and control rod connecting pins (4x4).
Inspect disc brake system, lubricate caliper slide rails.
Inspect drum brake systems, hoses and lines.
Inspect and lubricate front wheel bearings.
Inspect parking brake system for damage and operation.
Lubricate throttle kickdown or TV lever ball
studs.
Lubricate front axle R.H. axle shaft slip yoke
(4x4).
Inspect and lubricate spindle needle bearings (4x4).
Inspect and lubricate hub locks (4x4).
Change fuel filter (Recommended but not required for California Certified Vehicles
60,000 MILES
Change transfer case otl
"...Manual Hub OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS: ONLY use fingers to turn dials. DO NOT USE PLIERS. Set the hublock dials to “FREE” and transfer case to 2-high for all driving that does not require four wheel drive. To engage four wheel drive set the hublock dials to “LOCK” and set the transfer case to 4-high or 4-low. Return the transfer case to 2-high before disengaging hublocks. Do not drive on hard surface roads in 4-wheel rive because it can cause drive train damage. Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between “FREE” and “LOCK” or it will damage the hublocks. Driving with only one hublock engaged can cause drive train damage. Driving with the hublocks in ”FREE’’ and transfer case in 4-low can cause drive train damage. To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..."
Source: by Warn® http://warn.iwebcat.com/imgVD/WAR/61420C0-pn20990.pdf
I had same symptoms. It was the shift fork worn through the plastic ware pads and in to the aluminum fork. Not hard to remove the case and split. Not expensive for the parts. Do check the pump bracket ware while your in there. (lots of fixes on here)
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