[Hillbilly Heaven]

Cool I'll follow along. I see you have a lot of experience with Broncos. Please chime in on my build thread with any advice. I also installed a 9 inch and was researching using the 6R80 speedo output for my speedo. I read somewhere that there is a conversion device to make it work. Just have to fine it again. I can't seem to remember sh#$ any more.

I know the device you are talking about. I will look it up and post here and in you build thread. Right now I have nothing but time on my hands and need to fill it with something.
LOL sounds like you are getting old like me. I am having memory problems and doctors found the left carotid artery in my neck is 90% block. Good old fashioned country cooking. I am facing surgery at the end of the month to correct it. Till then and 6 weeks after I am not allowed to do anything requiring physical exertion.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

Ok since the subject of speedometer came up I thought I would share a little bit of info. If using the Quick 6 controller you have the ability to send a calibrated signal to the factory speedometer. Calibration can be done in the software or in the device. It is easier in the software. It is a simple calibration factor (ratio) to adjust so that the output signal of the transmission output shaft gives you a correct reading on factory speedo. The speedo signal is pin 12 of the car harness side of the controller.

One more nice option if you have signals from the transfer case to show what position it is in. With a signal to show the transfer case in 4LOW you can select a different table controlling the transmission. This will also allow a correct speedo reading in 4 LOW. Normally 4 High and 2WD ratios are the same.

 

[CDA 455]

If we are lucky the 7.3L has the same bellhousing pattern as the 5.0. But why put the 6 speed behind the 7.3L when you can get a 10 speed with it. (totally agree)

ETA: I just checked and the 7.3L shares the same bellhousing pattern as the 5.0L so no adapter will be required for the transmission. Now I can't confirm the transfer case adapter is the same. My bet is they are the same.

Did some research.


Yup; 10R80 fits 5.0 Coyote, so it'll fit the 7.3.

Advance Adapters makes an adapter to mate an Atlas T-case to the 6R80 and 10R80.


My goal for the Bronco is 100:1 final drive ratio.

The 10R80 and Atlas T-case accomplishes that goal.


The 7.3 and 10R80 keeps the power train Ford.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

10R80 comes standard behind the new 7.3L.

Problem is no one is offering a standalone control for either. YET
It is in the works. Just have to give it time.

 

[CDA 455]

10R80 comes standard behind the new 7.3L.

Problem is no one is offering a standalone control for either. YET
It is in the works. Just have to give it time.

My swap won't happen for another 4 years, 10 months.


I'm hoping the 7.3 will turn out to be a good/reliable motor to swap.

As well as hoping the after market to ramp up and produce goodies for said swap.

 

[redbeast9]

So there is a after market manual shifter I see here. So can this be used alone without the stand alone trans computer and just shift through the gears manualy (put in drive and then push the button up or down to shift)??? If so one could go ahead with build and when a stand alone is reliable then install later.... maybe..

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

No it still requires a sometype of controller. The up down buttons are wired into the controller. The controller controls an array of solenoid valves inside the transmission. It is not one solenoid for each gear. Imagine a logic table. Certain valves are on for each gear and certain ones are off. It is a very complex table. Plus you have Torque converter lock up control and line pressure control to handle too.

Without some type of controller the transmission is a dead horse regardless of what shifter is used. The shifter more less just tells the transmission which direction you want to move and also tells the controller if you want automatic shift or manual shift.

 

[Rodan]

Did some research. 10R80 fits 5.0 Coyote, so it'll fit the 7.3.

Advance Adapters makes an adapter to mate an Atlas T-case to the 6R80 and 10R80.

The 7.3 and 10R80 keeps the power train Ford.

...

I'm hoping the 7.3 will turn out to be a good/reliable motor to swap.

As well as hoping the after market to ramp up and produce goodies for said swap.

You and I are on the same page... 7.3/10R80/Atlas should make one hell of a good package in a FSB.

I'm also not in big hurry as it probably won't happen until after I retire in 3 years.

 

[SHOme]

I found this video. It's a little painful to watch but that's what FF is for.

Also when I called and asked if the converter spacers were in the engine adapter kit I was told they were. They are not. So my plans of having the engine and trans in the chassis just went out the window. I will be posting pics of the install at my build thread.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

75% of that video was about the rear main seal which should have already been done before starting the swap.

 

[SHOme]

Agreed but it gives someone an idea of what they are getting into. I didn't check to see if he did a follow up.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

When you bolt it all together, before tightening the torque convertor, make sure with the convertor bottomed out that there is 0.100 to 0.125 gap between the spacers and the convertor. Too much gap and you destroy the pump and converter, too little gap and you can ruin the thrust surfaces.

 

[SHOme]

Not sure I follow. Can you expand on that a bit?

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

When transmission is bolted to the engine and convertor is bottomed out in the transmission, there should be a gap of 0.100 to 0.125 between the torque convert and the spacers before you bolt torque convertor to flex plate. This is referred to pullback dimension. You don't want to run with converter completely bottomed out in transmission nor do you want it pulled back too far.

Torque convertor is the hottest running item in the transmission and expands the most this is why the what seems like a wide gap between torque convertor and spacers. If you ran it bottomed out in the transmission it would try to push the guts out the the end of the transmission when it got hot. If the torque convertor was pulled back too far then you end up with not enough engagement and this usually ends up trashing the pump and torque convertor. You might as well say the whole transmission with all the metal shaving that will be floating around.

Look at step 2.

 

[SHOme]

Thanks. I got it now and will definitely check this. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[SHOme]

I stopped by Performance Automatic today to get the TC adapter kit. $100 poorer I departed. Here are a few pics of their 6R80 display. That's the big block adapter with the Small block behind it.

 

[SHOme]

Engine and trans installed. Here is the difference in mounting for SBF and 6R80.

There is more pics on my build thread.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

Nice to see this coming along. Did you get a chance to check the clearance dimension on the torque convertor?

 

[SHOme]

Not yet. I will today. I'm going to try to get the trans mount figured out. I'm hoping I can just move it forward but that might effect front drive shaft clearance. Stay tuned.

 

[SHOme]

I have split the engine and transmission again because it was too tight. I reseated the TC and still the same. Ready for your suggestions. I can't even turn over the engine it so tight. The TC was seated at least and inch behind the face of the bell housing. I'm going to split it again and he an actual measurement.