[SHOme]

Part five of slow talker video. Shows he had same issue about 6 min mark. He said he removed the pilot bearing from the TC kit. That does seem to be my issue as well. I'm going to check with Performance Automatic tomorrow and see what they recommend.

 

[SHOme]

I just found this review on Summit's site. I'm in to far to back up now. I will make this work.

Performance Automatic Torque Converter Adapters PA68509 Reviews | Summit Racing

Get fast, Free Standard Shipping on orders over Summit Racing Equipment from $99 -- no shipping, handling, or rural fees! Exclusions apply.

www.summitracing.com

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

I say either the stud spacers are too long or pilot spacer is wrong diameters. Take the pilot spacer and make sure it fits properly over the pilot hub of torque converter. It should be just a slip fit.

 

[SHOme]

It was pretty tight. I will go into deeper investigation and measurements tomorrow. Thanks for your support on this.

 

[Burntoutaccountant]

It was pretty tight. I will go into deeper investigation and measurements tomorrow. Thanks for your support on this.

So if I were to do it, would you say I need a factory torque converter? If you were to do it over again what would you do?

 

[Burntoutaccountant]

Did you try and make custom linkage or did you do a floor mount?

 

[SHOme]

Dude I'm not close to done still trying to get it worked out. performance automatic is working with me currently. I'll post results.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

I would definitely put the dust shield / block shield back on. This will be a big help in gaining the clearance you need.

I am curious did you try bolting everything together without the torque converter centering ring?

Reason for this, is you may have compound clearance problems. I want to eliminate one item at a time. If you bolted it together without the centering ring and without the dust shield and you were able to push the converter back away from the flexplate. Measure that gap between the flexplate and those goofy ass thread on spacers. You should have at least 1/8 gap between flexplate and the shoulder on the torque converter studs. If this is correct and with the torque converter now bolted to the flexplate try and rotate the engine. If it does rotate then the goofy ass threaded spacers are the correct length.

If you don't have the proper spacing now is the time to go back and add the dust shield / block plate between the block and transmission adapter. This will move the transmission back the thickness of the plate from the flexplate. After this is done measure again the gap between the flexplate and the goofy ass torque converter stud adapters shoulders with the converter pushed back as far as it will go into the transmission. If you still do not have the proper distance between the flexplate and th shoulder on the torque converter studs, then the goofy ass stud adapters are wrong.

Sorry for all these steps but nothing from Performance Automatic can be trusted.

Now that you have proper flexplate to torque converter clearance and you know you aren't forcing the converter into the transmission or converter pulled out too far, let's work on that damn centering ring.

You will need to separate the transmission from the block and remove the torque converter. Set it on the workbench pilot hub side up. Yeah I know you have already filled it with ATF. Life sucks and you need a catch pan.

Now take that centering ring and place it on the pilot hub. It should be a slip fit. If it does not slide on then the I.D. of the centering ring is too small. Measure the O.D. of the pilot hub and the I.D. of the centering ring. The I.D. should be 0.001 larger than the O.D. If the I.D. is 0.001 to 0.003 smaller you might have to heat the centering ring to install it on the converter. DO NOT INSTALL yet. We have to measure the pocket depth first.

There is a shoulder on the pilot hub. The normally centering ring should slide on and bottom out on that shoulder. Measure the depth of the pocket in the centering ring and also measure the length from the shoulder on the torque converter pilot hub to the end of the pilot hub. The pocket in the centering ring should be the same or deeper.

I am going to pause here for now and allow you to catch up. The next set of measurements can be complicated and take some careful steps to measure the overall length of the spacer and the position of the end of the torque converter pilot hub.

I am going to copy and post this in the 6R80 Swap thread so that others that might face this later can use.

 

[SHOme]

Awesome explanation. I will move results here if the machining works. No need to send someone down the wrong path.

 

[SHOme]

I am fabbing the trans mount and realize it is not lining up with the factory cross member holes. I am speaking about left and right between the frame rails. I did not take a good picture of this before I removed the stock drivetrain. Does anyone know if the stock trans mounting location is slightly off set on the E4OD? I sold mine and cannot reference. The engine is centered and level left to right. See pic.

 

[SHOme]

I just found this picture. I think I have my answer. It does appear to be offset. The advanced adapter is not. I will just fab it to fit.

 

[SHOme]

Here is the mount fabbed if that's what you want to call it.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

That should work. Do you know if the output shaft centerline is same height as original?

 

[SHOme]

I measured the engine angle. I am at 4.5 degrees and this is what was listed for the Bronco. I did not take any measurements before I removed the old drive-train. The adapter looks like it was derived from the stock adapter. I'm thinking I'm good, but a response from you would be reassuring.

 

[SHOme]

Next item on the agenda. Driveshafts. Since the trans is 2.25 inches shorter and I added a 9 inch rear which I understand to add another inch, I plan on having a new rear HD shaft made. The front on the other hand, I am hoping to reuse it at least until I break it. My question is can I re-use it? I've added 4 inch lift but lost 2.25 inches due to the shorter trans. I have not mocked it up and cycled the suspension but will in the near future.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

You are doing better than me. I didn't know what the factory centerline angle was. Down is good it helps with driveshaft angles. I just didn't want it to be higher and you put the body back on and you have an oh crap moment.

Driveshafts I say mock it up with the old ones. Cycle the suspension and see it it bottoms out on the slip joint.

 

[SHOme]

Drive shafts will need to be added to everyone's cost of swap. The front needs to be shorter and the rear longer. I'm weighing my options. I definitely want stronger u joints if I buy replacements.

 

[Big_ford_1978]

My F150 has a 6R80 and its the true definition of a slushbox

Id much rather have the ZF5

I’ve seen zf’s blow out from stock 300i6’s them 6r80’s get beat on in high horse power mustangs, you do the math

 

[SHOme]

Agreed

 

[SHOme]

Here is the front drive shaft fully compressed.



Here is the rear fully extended. Remember this is a nine inch rear.