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94 No Start condition. Ive run out of ideas. (Solved)

4.6K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  Mikey350  
#1 ·
Ok, 94 bronco. 302/E4OD. Everything was running fine. Then I bought a new steering column and wheel to replace mine. New wheel was a 93 model. I stripped out the clock spring out of the old column, changed all the electrical in the wheel part as well. I also put in a new Ignition switch at the same time.

Got it all together and didnt have the wheel on yet, and it fired up fine. I had the cluster out at the time too. So I figured that i was all good. Installed the cluster, put the wheel on, buttoned it all up.

You turn the key on and theres a huge load on the system. All the lights dim till they go out. You can hear the starter relay click, the first time or 2 then nothing.

So I went back and double and triple checked all the wiring from the clock spring and it all looked ok.

My Airbag module blew out before all this started, its not connected right now, but it ran without it.

I switched out the RKE box, no change.

I switched out the alarm box, no change.

I can hear clicking coming from the RKE box when the key is on. Also when the key is off.

My factory alarm light on the dash is flashing. It never worked before.

I have gone ever every inch of the wiring on the dash and I havnt found anything that looks suspicious.

Im thinking it has to be something simple. It worked fine before I tried to switch the steering column.

Is it possible that the new ignition switch is the issue?
 
#2 ·
Yo J,
I like the ignition switch too as a likely perpetrator.
Ignition Switch Continuity Test

NOTE: For an engine-won't-crank condition with an automatic transmission (7003), determine if the condition exists with the shift control selector level in both PARK and NEUTRAL positions before performing the ignition switch continuity tests. If the no-crank condition occurs in one shift lever position but not the other, a more probable cause is the neutral start switch located in the transmission.


Disconnect ignition key warning switch terminal and wire from the ignition switch (11572). Test the continuity of the ignition switch as described in the following illustrations. Connect a self-powered test lamp or ohmmeter between the blade terminals indicated on the chart. No continuity between any blade and chassis ground should exist in any ignition switch position except the proof Circuit 41 (BK/LB) (Pin P1) and Circuit 512 (T/LG) (Pin P2) in the START position only.

Ignition Switch, F-Series and Bronco


Image
 
#4 ·
The original ignition key switch has a sensor that triggers the anti-theft preventing the starter circuits from working. It's not well documented, and I really don't know what it physically looks like. Maybe your '93 column doesn't have the right key switch. Look at these two pages from the Body/Chassis manual.
On 13-11-1, notice the papagraph in the Description and Operation section that mentions that the key switch lock cylinder has a sensor that "knows" when it is forcibly removed and will prevent the anti-theft module from allowing the truck to start.
On the 13-11-11 page, the schematic for the sensor is toward the right side of the image, that circuitry IS NOT in the '94 EVTM for some reason.
150122


https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/898330
150123


https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1155442
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. Im starting to think this may weirdly be an ignition switch problem. Im going t try swapping in the old key switch back in and the old ignition switch after that if that doesnt work. At least that may put me on the right track. I have a feeling it has something to do with antitheft.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Here's some more info that may help on troubleshooting the ignition switch sensor (Supermotors is not working well, I'll put these on my Supermotors pages when Supermotors get back up)
The part on page 13-22-22, (lower left) that references the value of the resistor in the switch, should tell you whether the correct lock cylinder is installed and working.
On page 13-11-25 is a depiction of the anti-lock switch -
These are now on my Supermotors starting here:
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1145709

150307

150305
150306
 
#6 ·
The sequence of events seems to rule out the ignition switch as the culprit. Everything worked until reinstalling the gauge cluster and steering wheel, so I would pull those (one at a time, to isolate potentials) and see if it'll start again like that. If so, there would seem to be some incompatibility with one or both of them and existing/new components in the system. If not, something else presumably got disturbed while installing the cluster and steering wheel.
 
#9 ·
Before you start digging............Since you replaced the column - did you make sure the transmission went back into Park? I'm talking where it hooks up to the linkage rod on the steering column.
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
#12 ·
There have been times with me (emotionally upset!!!) where I was thinking of something drastic like calling the junk yard to take it all away. Slapped myself for that.

Times when I thought: "I am in a world of poop, how am I ever going to get out of this?"

Eventually, with help form FSB and other information, I most always find the problem. I didn't give up!

What a relief it is to NOT have poop all over.
 
#13 ·
Well today is a fantastic day. After 5 months of the bronco being dead, it finally lives again!.

I've been chasing this no start electrical problem for 5 months now. Given up numerous times. Just the other day, I ran into a mechanic friend and talked to him about it and I told him what all I had done. He suggested that the ignition actuator under the column might be the problem.

I could have sworn I put my old one in it, but no. Another problem was the knurled nut insert on the old switch pulled out of the plastic switch housing and prevented the new one from going on.


152270



152271


Once I got that out and put the new switch in, it fired right up.
So now I can put it all back together and go drive it.

I bolted it back up to the column and it drives fine now.
 
#14 ·
I realize I am very late, but wanted to add my 1995 Cobra doesn't have a chipped key and I didn't think your 1994 Bronco would either. There were some posts that I thought pointed to that as a potential problem. So just for clarification, does your Bronco have a "chipped" ignition key?

thanks
tim
 
#15 ·
No chip. It was just a bad ignition switch.
The threaded insert was threaded on to the screw that holds the connector in place, preventing the new one from seating. Once that was gone it was gravy.
 
#16 ·
Thanks, I think all chipped keys came along in 1996 when everything went OBDII. Glad to hear you are back rolling in your Bronco. I realize I haven't been on much this summer/fall, but know you really like your Bronco and am more than sure you are ecstatic to have him back.

tim
 
#19 ·
My '96 has a regular key, no chip, it is OBDII