I’ve heard bad things about the ryd stuff. I don’t remember specifics but there were some issues.

 

just finished my tracbar and had it looking nice. but i guess the heat from welding warped a thread. long story short i just ordered 75$ of stuff from Ruffstuff to make a new tracbar. ughhhh

i think next weekend im going to junkyard to try and find the 2wd Superduty brackets. i wanna see what i can do with them first.

 

I want to say a 4 link was talked about a lot but I haven't researched it in years.

'05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info

I'd like this thread to become the '05+ axle bible for tech and info. Since this is the next big project on my FSB... nOOB question: What do I need in order to swap a complete brake set up from an F-350 onto an F-550 axle? The 05+ F450/550 axles are wider but according to the below...

irate4x4.com

Pirate4x4 has a thread called the dana 60 bible and super dana 60 info

 

I want to say a 4 link was talked about a lot but I haven't researched it in years.

'05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info

I'd like this thread to become the '05+ axle bible for tech and info. Since this is the next big project on my FSB... nOOB question: What do I need in order to swap a complete brake set up from an F-350 onto an F-550 axle? The 05+ F450/550 axles are wider but according to the below...

irate4x4.com

Pirate4x4 has a thread called the dana 60 bible

That thread looks familiar....

 

What kind of surface will the rig be driving on?
If it's a paved road only/dirt driveway kind of surface; I like the 2WD '05+ bracket route.

I will be in the same boat in a few years as well; with me swapping in a '13+ F-550 front axle.

I'm building for back country/unmaintained fire roads, so I'll need some articulation beyond the pavement.

 

Subscribing because I'm in the same boat and curious what you find. The stock superduty arms w/bushings look like they wont flex much at all. I've been looking at the Ruff Stuff arms or maybe build a 4 link from scratch as an option.

 

this truck is going to be 75% daily driver and 25% offroad. but offroad is pretty harsh. i dont have any rock crawling around here. mostly trails, sand and mud. i do drive the trails pretty fast and rough but i dont jump it or anything like i use to do. itll be on 37" MTs with front n rear lockers. i want the truck to be good onroad but doesnt have to be perfect by any means. i normally drive my F250 nowdays. the bronco is more of my weekend fun truck that i want to be able to drive around and if i feel like hitting a offroad spot that it will reliable make it home. right now im doing this with my F250 and its starting to show the wear

the flexing has always been a big question to me. i dont have any experience offroading a Superduty or anything using these style arms. im sure theres people who have used the stock arms and id like to hear their input on it.

they do not look like they would flex alot or would heavily resist it. but then again the bushings are pretty large rubber bushings that should allow a good amount of movement for most trucks offroad. you figure that TTB axle pivot bushings also have to flex quite abit. heck compared to a OBS F250 that has to flex a leafspring with TTB, i would think these stock arms should be pretty good. also should ride smoother using rubber instead of heims. obviously heims would be the best route and why people use heims/uniball for serious TTB builds.

or i could be wrong and the arms wont flex worth a crap and it will suck offroad. or they will jsut fold with any substantial force.

on my 88 with this swap i am using the stock arms. i fabricated some brackets for them. they didnt turn out as good as id hoped mainly because i did not order enough metal. also they are pinched in. but because it is an offroad only truck i dont care how it rides. but i was thinking i might pick up the 2wd Superduty brackets for it aswell. at minimum im going to add some metal to them to add more surface area on the frame cause this just looks like iys gonna twist the frame easily

 

My super duty axles came from a running truck. I did some backyard mall crawling before pulling the axles out of it. I drove up on a boulder to see how the stock suspension would do. The rear flexed really well considering they're stock 3/4 ton springs with no load or even a pickup bed on the back of it, but the front did not. I did not measure but want to say it flexed less than my TTB with stock radius arms, which is pretty pitiful for a straight axle. I'm not sure if this is a result of the 3/4 front springs or the stock arms, but I'm thinking it was a combination of the 2. Maybe it would do better on a heavy FSB with softer coils.

Mine will also be primarily on the street, 37s, but I'm running a TT up front instead of a full locker. When I take it on a trail I want to not worry about anything breaking easily. Popping a couple of 8.8s with ease, one of which almost left me locked up and disabled in a bad area to be disabled in, has left a lasting impression.

That does look like a lot of leverage on your frame. Running a crossmember there might help but it looks like the shaft might collide.

 

the 05+ D60 axles are so strong that they bend the frames on the trucks wrecked from the front. They bend right after the radius arm mounts towards the cab. The leaf spring trucks dont do this. I like both of them but it's rare to see something over built like that.

 

I have just completed an SAS On my 92. I put a O8 Dana 60 up front along with the Sterling 10.5 in the rear. I use radius arms to connect the axle to the frame. I made them out of 2” 1/4”wall DOM. The whole job was about $6000. That did not include coil overs or anything exotic.

 

went to junkyard yesturday. mostly struck out but i did manage to grab a pair of the 2wd Superduty brackets. the brackets look very sturdy but they defiantly dont go up the side of the frame very far. but im going to mock them up and make sure they will work, and if they do i will take some 3/16" steel and weld an extension on it to cover more of the frame. its intresting the way it was stamped

went to a much further yard than i usually go to because they showed 4 Superduty in the yard. three 2wd and one 4x4 leaf. of the 3 trucks, only 1 of them used these bolted on brackets and the other 2 has a much sturdier but rivited on bracket. the 4x4 truck still had its axle but the front driveshaft was missing which i am looking for. also they only had 3 80-97 trucks and nothing useable on any of them. was a pretty nice Ram Charger there that i felt bad for cause it looked really nice and rust free

 

the 2wd brackets are too small to hold the 4wd radius arms. so that is a bust.

now im heavily considering the heim joint option. but dam thats expensive....

 

i figured id go ahead and try making some brackets since im dead in the water. its only with 1/8" steel but i will double up, box in and gusset them the best i can since i have alot of 1/8 plate on hand. so far its turning out good. i ran out of mig wire and its getting too late to use the grinder so i had to stop for the night. they are going to have alot more surface area on the frame than the 2wd brackets would. i also did build them so they are offset about 1-1/4" each to help with the pinching in issue. they will also drop the radius arms more than the 2wd brackets will.

 

finished building the brackets last weekend and got them mounted today. i almost screwed up making them too long as it almost interfered with the trans crossmember, especially on the passenger side. they should be plenty strong and drop the arms enough that the caster should be pretty good i think. each bracket has 7 bolts holding it to the frame so it should be very secure. offsetting the arms 1-1/4" really helped alot and there is practicly no pinching-in but still plenty of room to place bolts in the lip of the frame

now that the arms are mounted, i was able to put wheels on. i shook the truck quite abit and it feels like it should flex pretty decently. i dont plan on rock climbing so articulation is not super important. if anything wheel travel is more important since i like to drive fast and rough on offroad trails

 

05+ superduty radius arms are the worst flexing things i have seen. Zero pivot is allowed at the rear mount. My 08 doesnt flex well at all. And it rides like a brick. And anyone who has removed one of the coil springs will tell you they are not meant to flex much: there is no physical connection holding the coil spring in. The only thing that keeps the coils in is weight and a 5 or 6" protrusion in the top center of the spring. Ford really fucked the 05+ front suspension up IMHO.

 

well not many people try to flex Superduty trucks. i would imagine they probably flex abit better than stock leaf sprung axles would tho. heck it has to flex alot better than a D50 TTB axle does

not that i ever would bother but i was curious about replacing the rear bushings with a uniball. not that it would gain a whole lot without widening the brackets

either way im sure it will be fine for my uses. like i said i dont need alot of articulation, just decent wheel travel.

since im using Duff 78-79 lower coil buckets, my coils are retained very well. which proved itself yesterday when the front axle tried to roll out forward of the truck. the coil was on the verge of shooting out but held out. surprized it didnt bend it with the angle it was forced at.

 

well not many people try to flex Superduty trucks. i would imagine they probably flex abit better than stock leaf sprung axles would tho. heck it has to flex alot better than a D50 TTB axle does

Mine really doesnt flex lol. The nose rolls to one side and the rear axle does all the flexing! Id rather have the 99-04 leaf springs on the 05+ axle. When i hit the washbords on my dirt road, i cant go over 20mph or my teeth will rattle out and my drink flys out of the cupholder.

Flex and D50 TTB dont belong in the same sentence.

 

well being that i have been driving and offroading my F250 for the last few years, i guess i have gotten use to the D50 TTB having no flex. so it doesnt bother me much. the lack of up travel was a big issue tho which is why i did some lift on it. an axle should have more than 1.5" of up travel from the factory. so i will probably be fine with the Superduty arms. if not then ill do the hiem arms

if i had realized that Ruffstuff was gonna do a 17.76% off 4th of July special i might have ordered those arms. instead i spent all my money ordering lockers for both my D60

 

guess i have gotten use to the D50 TTB having no flex.

The flat leaf springs were a joke! I drove a 95 with D50 for quite a while. Rode good with a leveling kit. Was really squirrelly with an 8 ft bed heaping with rock at 60 mph... Cant say i ever flexed it out though

 

@Kingfish999 , have you made a decision on yours or made additional progress?

It looks like farfromstock doesn't use DOM for their arms. I'm not sure what they're using but it is significantly thinner wall than RuffStuff's kit. I ended up folding and picked up Ruff's kit along with their tie rod kit for the high steer when they had a promotion discount. It was not cheap, but it looks like it's pretty heavy duty stuff and I don't imagine I will ever break it. Now if only I could find the time to get back to the SAS project (which has also been at a stand still because I'm rebuilding a coyote and making a wiring-harness for it to swap into the FSB at the same time as the SAS so I don't have to redo the driveshafts over and over again). Maybe I should start a build thread.

 

no i havent made much progress. still havent driven it yet.

i haven't exactly decided what i want to do. i do want to do the ruffstuff kit at some point but just dont know if i can afford it anytime soon. thats why i wanted to use the existing arms and see how they go

but the brackets i made are very large and look out of place on the truck and hang pretty low. i havent measured caster but it looks about right. but what i will probably do is make another pair of brackets and not make them nearly as big or drop as much. the brackets i made for it ill probably swap on my 88 cause i really dont like the brackets i made for it

i dont have the shocks connected but it seems like its moving ok when i jump on it and push it around

 

TBH, I dont think your brackets look bad at all. The SD arms are pretty bulky from the side and the brackets you made match. What size tires are those? They look awesome.

 

Just got my RuffStuff arms in. The manufacturing quality is excellent and the brackets are all quite beefy. The arm DOM section is 38", but it looks like with the brackets on the eye-to-eye measurement will be about 44".

 

@RustProof did you end up getting your Ruffstuff arms done? did you use the frame outriggers? thoughts on the kit?

i think its finally time for me to go to new arms. and im pretty sure the Ruffstuff kit is what im going with. also debating the RYD short arm kit but it is quite abit more expensive and complicated, and says for 0-4" lift

i imagine the RYD kit is stronger using 2 arms per side, possibly less alignment change thoughout the suspensions travel, looks cooler. but i imagine it flexes less, its also kinda bulky

the FarFromStock kit looks exactly like the Ruffstuff kit. they even have Ruffstuff hashtags. but they do list using 0.211" tubing instead of 0.25".

 

great effort guys, keep up the battle. I really want to go this route as well so I appreciate your efforts and of course part lists.

 

finally got my new rear driveshaft built yesterday and got it in. it was really the last big part of the Superduty axle swap before i can test drive it. problem is i ignored the truck for the last few months so i dont really remeber what i needed to do still. but my excitement too great

so i did my first test drive yesturday a few blocks. so i knew that i did not have any shocks or swaybars installed and i think my coils are very soft. the tires probably had flat spots from sitting. the alignment is not been checked. the truck was VERY bouncy and super sketchy to the point i would not go over 30mph. brakes were sub-par. really had me worried im going to regret this swap

today i rigged some shocks on it. they are too short for long term useage but are enough for me to test it. it helped tremondously. no more bounce. still did not verify alignment. either the tires have a flat spot or there is something warped cause i can defiantly feel it at low speed. the brakes must be starting to wear in because they were better but still not great. the steering is super darty, hard to correct without overcorrecting, and feels like its on the verge of deathwobble. so im assuming the caster is my next problem to address. drove it home for the first time in almost a year and got up to about 45-50mph but with a near deathgrip on the steering.


so i need to find a way to measure the caster on the superduty knuckes. not sure the best way to do so. i will probably do my original idea of drilling or slotting the upper hole of the radius arm mount at the axle, possibly make a DIY eccentric bolt for it to make it adjustable, balljoints can be adjusted for some. i might go ahead and add a steering stabilizer since the Superduty were designed for it.

i might also look into a shorter pitman arm because im wondering if it might help with a few things. i have a saginaw PS pump with the simple pressure/flow mod. but at idle it somewhat struggles to turn the 37x13.5 tires. also i noticed when drivnig that so little steering wheel input is needed to steer, a smaller pitman arm might give more leverage. i dont know how long the pitman arms compare between OBS and Superduty, but i know i had to use a TRE reamer to make the stock pitman arm fit the Superduty draglink. i have a Bluetop box and a Borgeson shaft so there is basically zero slop

im not really sure what to do with the brakes. im using a 2000's F150 disc/disc master cylinder than a 1-1/4" bore. im using a F350 brake booster. the Superduty uses a 1-5/16" bore MC with vacuum, 1-1/2" bore for hydro. the brake pedal feels pretty stiff and doesnt give enough pressure to stop the brakes quickly. but there is also a decent amount of travel in the pedal and i dont want any more. i figuered the 1-1/4" MC would be a good compromise but now i feel like a 1-1/8" MC would give better stopping power. but the trade off would be more brake travel. i really dont want to go to hydroboost if i can help it.

 

Great updates. Is it possible some grease rubbish got on your pads? The brakes on the 05+ axle are massive. I am shocked you're having bad perf with it.

Could you add an eccentric to the arms mount points on the axle?

 

I’m running the stock brake master cylinder with the vacuum boost in my truck and it stops. Great. I can lock them up on the pavement. As it was said 05 super duty brakes are massive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Stock bronco or stock super duty booster and MC?

 

then i might go ahready and put in a smaller 1-1/8" bore MC. i was worried the bore would be too small and the brake pedal will have too much travel. i recently swapped my 90 F250 from a 1-1/16" bore to a 1-1/8" bore MC to help solve that issue

my idea of doing new mounting holes on the arms at the axle are not a new idea. ive seen kits that will do an eccentric on either top or bottom mount. they just seem way overcomplicated for a pretty simple idea. slot the bolt hole, weld a couple bars for the eccentric to center between, add an eccentric bolt/washer. should not really be that hard. but there might not be enough room on the front of the tab to weld a bar for the eccentric to go against. i feel like im going to need ALOT of caster so i need to move the hole alot

but even so, if i can do it right the first time, i would have no issue skipping the ecentric and jsut drilling a new hole. might need to weld a washer or nut if the hole is too close to the original hole.

this kit is about 300$ but only alows for about 3* of caster. it does it a the top mount at the axle

BD Cam Caster Adjusting Kit 11-22 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke

Ensure proper suspension alignment after lifting your 2011-2022 Ford Superduty with this adjusting kit from BD Performance.

www.dieselpowerproducts.com

then there is this other kit that extends the lower hole. this looks more fragile of a kit but can do 6* of caster

Control Arm Caster Adjusting Cam Ford 2005-2010 Super Duty F-250/F-350/F-450 Pick-up/Cab-Chassis

Installing BD's Control Arm Cam Caster Adjuster kit on the radius control arms of the Ford 2005-2010 Super Duty pick-ups, correcting the caster is made easie...

us.bddiesel.com