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Overhead temp/compass

9K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  highbrowed  
#1 ·
Yes I have attempted the search function, I haven't found an answer.

Ok, I just purchased my 2nd bronco Friday. It's a 1996 Eddie Bauer with the 351. This bronco is the closest to stock I've seen. Still has the factory exhaust and radio! Anyway, my issue is when I bought it the only issue was the original auto dimming rear view mirror was missing. The plug was also broken off so I had open ended wires hanging and the temp/compass was off. I assumed it was due to the missing mirror. After some research today I think I have found out that those wires were just power for the auto dimming rear view mirror. So, why is my temp/compass dead?

I pulled it down and checked power using a reference I found somewhere, supermotors something? Anyway, I do have 12v between the black and white wire at the connector when the key is on. So is the temp/compass just bad? Can you buy a new or aftermarket one? Can they be repaired? Thanks in advance
 
#4 ·
check fuses and make sure its getting power. if it is then the circuit board is probably fried which is extremely common. luckily its easy to fix or you can get a used replacement on ebay. the Ford Explorers use a different style console but the same circuit board so you can use one of them for like 50$ on ebay. otherwise theres several vidoes and threads about fixing them such as this one


Overhead console display fix | Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations



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#9 · (Edited)
Yo lugnut1009,

"... my overhead console display started flickering and then went out completely. I disassembled the console module that houses the board and display, I noticed the faint smell of something that had burnt. I also noticed that the 5 pin heatsinked voltage regulator (ST brand L4947H Home - STMicroelectronics) was dissapating quite a bit of heat when powered. Using a meter and the spec sheets on the two regulators (the other was LM2940CT-12 or NTE1954) I noticed that the output from the L4947H was around 2 volts where it should have been 5 volts. Noting the amount of heat being dissapated and the low voltage reading, I determined that another component must have failed. I started looking at the nearest component which was a 100uF 6.3 volt electrolytic capacitor. Closer inspection revealed some brown crud under the bottom of it which meant that the capacitor had failed. I dug around in some spare parts and found a 100uF 16 volt capacitor which I installed in the circuit. Put the console back together and display is working fine.."
Source: by kc5mhb @ FSB

For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;
http://www.hollanderparts.com/
A yard that uses Hollander Interchange can search other yards and have it shipped
Can select certain parts
Has Vehicle Pics! They show about 3 - 5 pics for some vehicles
...
or
http://www.copartfinder.com/finder/searchMake.do
Has Vehicle Pics! They show about 4 - 5 pics per vehicle incl. interior/dash, back seat, front & rear and engine bay.
Can NOT Select certain parts
...

http://www.car-parts.com/
Can select certain parts
Has Some Vehicle Pics! They show about 4 - 8 pics per vehicle incl. interior/dash, back seat, front & rear and engine bay
...

http://www.picknpull.com
This is a Company name w/yard locations in various states
Can NOT Select certain parts

http://row52.com/Search
Can NOT Select certain parts
Has Vehicle Pics AND Want a Part? It's Easy...
1. You create a Parts Wanted Listing.
2. Parts Pullers respond with offers.
3. You pick the best one.
A Parts Puller gets the parts you need.
 
#10 ·
Yo lugnut1009,

"... my overhead console display started flickering and then went out completely. I disassembled the console module that houses the board and display, I noticed the faint smell of something that had burnt. I also noticed that the 5 pin heatsinked voltage regulator (ST brand L4947H Home - STMicroelectronics) was dissapating quite a bit of heat when powered. Using a meter and the spec sheets on the two regulators (the other was LM2940CT-12 or NTE1954) I noticed that the output from the L4947H was around 2 volts where it should have been 5 volts. Noting the amount of heat being dissapated and the low voltage reading, I determined that another component must have failed. I started looking at the nearest component which was a 100uF 6.3 volt electrolytic capacitor. Closer inspection revealed some brown crud under the bottom of it which meant that the capacitor had failed. I dug around in some spare parts and found a 100uF 16 volt capacitor which I installed in the circuit. Put the console back together and display is working fine.."
Source: by kc5mhb @ FSB

For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;
http://www.hollanderparts.com/
A yard that uses Hollander Interchange can search other yards and have it shipped
Can select certain parts
Has Vehicle Pics! They show about 3 - 5 pics for some vehicles
...
or
CoPartfinder - Your guide to Auto Parts on the Internet
Has Vehicle Pics! They show about 4 - 5 pics per vehicle incl. interior/dash, back seat, front & rear and engine bay.
Can NOT Select certain parts
...

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
Can select certain parts
Has Some Vehicle Pics! They show about 4 - 8 pics per vehicle incl. interior/dash, back seat, front & rear and engine bay
...

Pick-n-Pull » Home
This is a Company name w/yard locations in various states
Can NOT Select certain parts

Row52 | Search Results
Can NOT Select certain parts
Has Vehicle Pics AND Want a Part? It's Easy...
1. You create a Parts Wanted Listing.
2. Parts Pullers respond with offers.
3. You pick the best one.
A Parts Puller gets the parts you need.

Thanks again miesk5
 
#11 ·
I just replaced the capacitor in the board in the overhead console tonight and it fixed it right up!
It was not coming on at times and I could rap on it to change the display. It would go to all lit up as if it was rebooting. Then at times it would flash as if the dash lights were being turned on and off really fast. And it would take forever to display a temp and direction when it did work. 50 cent part with $4 shipping but cheaper than a new one or an Explorer conversion.
 
#12 ·
The cap that usually goes is the one in the upper middle of this picture. Maybe someone will reference this thread and see your fix (and my picture)

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#13 ·
I work on guitar amps in my spare time and capacitors give them hell. As a rule, they are changed out once every 20 years or so regardless of if they are played. They just swell and pop and thus give no capacitance any longer.

Consequently, LCD and plasma TVs as well as computer monitors have the same problems. Capacitors die and give the impression that the whole monitor is dead. Usually, a quick cap change and you are back in business.

All that to say; I am not surprised by this being the issue at all. Failed capacitors wreak havoc on circuits.
 
#16 ·
its a simple matter to swap the guts out of the OHC in an explorer, just make sure you get the lights as well, as the connector is different. Everything else is the same. You can also plug it in and test it right in the junk yard parking lot to make sure it works, if not, take it back and go find another while your there.
 
#18 ·
Well I bought the capacitors for a couple bucks and replaced it today. I tested it and no change. I guess mine was too far gone to repair that way. The original cap was definitely bad though, but maybe it burnt the card or something else when it burnt up. Oh well, pull-a-part here I come...
 
#25 ·
I have one for sale I just picked up last week from an Explorer to retrofit into my Bronco, but I have decided it's too much work. It's Tan and black. PM me if interested, I'll let it go for pretty cheap.

-Griffin
 
#23 ·
I took it back apart and found the resistor right beside the capacitor I replaced with a bad solder joint. It has a 161 on top of it, which is a 160 ohm resistor. I tried resoldering it but I couldn't get the solder to stick to anything but the soldering iron.
 
#24 ·
Well I gave it one more last shot, I tried soldering the resistor again and it does work better. But I ended up getting one out of a '99 explorer anyway since I was in the Pull-a-part place anyway getting parts for one of my boys trucks. I don't regret trying to fix it first, but if I had it to do over again, I would just get an explorer one like everybody suggested. There were at least 40 explorers in the junk yard, and only 3 F-series trucks my body style, no broncos at all.

Oh, and I only paid $7.50 for the electronics and the overhead console lights ...