Toss the sway bar and links. They don't do all that much for on-road performance and do a lot against off road performance

Get a generic seat cover for cheap on eBay....the point of a seat cover is that it protects your seat from stuff, don't buy a $50 one that you'll care about.

Floor-mats can be found at the JY. You want the RUBBER ones (I'd think twice about getting carpet at the JY) because they don't trap moisture and turn your floor into a sheet of rust like carpet does. If you're looking for loose floor mats then I'd advise JY (check pickups as well) for those too, they're even easier to clean when you get home.


If you don't have an OE cooler, yes, upgrade your transmission cooler, do it now! Lots of F-series and bronco have transmission coolers installed stock on the left side behind the grill. You should be able to go to the JY and find a relatively pristine one. Your radiator core support will already have the holes to mount it. If you don't have A/C get an A/C condenser (I used a $50 Chinese one from Amazon, it's holding up great so far) and use that as a transmission cooler. I highly recommended the A/C condenser route, especially if the JY want's $30 or more for the OE cooler, temperatures dropped like a rock when I installed mine.

IIRC if you go with the condenser you'll need:
-1/2 and 3/8 compression to 3/8 NPT adapters
-two 3/8 x 1/4 female NPT adapters/unions (HF has them cheap)
-two of the 1/4NPT x 5/16 IF (IF = inverted flare) adapters which are probably easiest to find in the JY on basically any Ford with an auto transmission.
-5/16 steel line (Autozone, Napa, Advance etc)

To install the OE cooler you'll need all the same stuff except the compression fittings and adapters. Copy the OE line routing, or better yet, get the OE lines from the junkyard with the cooler (cut them off behind the union fittings so you get those too.

If you don't know how to bend and flare tubing then you're about to learn. HF or probably Walmart will have a tube bender and flaring kit (don't spend more than $15 each) and Youtube has plenty of tutorials. Since you're not in the rust belt working with steel lines isn't as essential of a skill but it's good to know regardless and as you become more mechanically inclined you'll have to learn eventually


And finally...

General tips:
Search and post here before you mod anything....if you actually take this advice and listen to the answers people give, you'll know enough that you don't have to ask in no time at all:thumbup

 

Sway bars help with body role. If it's an on the road mostly rig I'd run them. The holes should already be there and finding one at the jy should be easy.

Seat covers if you want cheap Walmart or eBay. If you want quality and comfort rockauto for a seat design cover. Hit me up for the discount code if you'd like 5% of is cash in your pocket.

I'd leave the OE cooler alone. It's higher quality and mounted properly in most cases. The off the shelf stuff are cheap and the mounting hardware is a joke.

Read up on http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131287

 

yo 1990;
Congrats & Welcome!

If you want to keep your Bronco stock;
Front Stabilizer Bar Link Assembly
Removal
1.Remove nuts, bolts and washers connecting the front stabilizer bar (5482) to connecting links.
2.Remove nuts and bolts of the front stabilizer bar retainer.
3.Remove front stabilizer bar retainer.
4.Remove the front stabilizer bar and insulator. The stud does not have to be removed. The bracket-to-frame assembly may be removed but not the front crossmember.

Installation
1.Install insulators on front stabilizer bar.
2.Position front stabilizer bar with insulators to stabilizer bar brackets and install attaching nuts and bolts. Tighten retainer nuts to 34-46 Nm (25-33 lb-ft).
3.Install link to front stabilizer bar attaching bolt and nut. Tighten to 70-100 Nm (52-73 lb-ft).

see attached diagram F7714-C;

Item Part Number Description
btw, Insulator is usually described as bushing; avail @ most parts stopre; some use poly bushings in lieu of rubber.
1 5K483 Front Stabilizer Bar Link
2 N620482-S36 Nut, M12 x 1.75 Hex Flange
3 5482 Front Stabilizer Bar
4 3B353 Retainer, Stabilizer Bar, Front
5 5484 Insulator, Stabilizer Bar, Front
6 N806789-S2 Bolt and Retainer, M10-1.5 x 33.5 Hex
7 N605704-S2 Bolt, M12-1.75 x 65 Hex
8 N620469-S2 Nut, M12 x 1.75
9 N801527-S2 Washer, 13 x 34 x 2.5
A — Tighten to 72-108 Nm
(53-79 Lb-Ft)
B — Tighten to 34-46 Nm
(25-34 Lb-Ft)
==

Rear Stabilizer Bar
Removal
1.Remove nut from lower end of stabilizer bar link (5K484).
2.Remove outer washer and insulator. Disconnect rear stabilizer bar (5A772) from stabilizer bar link.
3.Remove inner insulators and washers. Disconnect stabilizer bar link from frame (5005) by removing nuts and bolts.
4.Remove nuts or bolts which fasten U-bolts and rear spring caps and plates (5796) to rear axle (4001).

Installation
1.Follow removal procedures in reverse order.
2.Tighten fasteners to specifications
see diagram F9354-A
1 5A772 Rear Stabilizer Bar
2 N620468-S2 Nut
3 5L499 Bracket
4 N647097-S Rivet
5 N605920-S2 Bolt
6 N605704-S2 Bolt
7 5K484 Stabilizer Bar Link
8 18041 Washer
9 384485-S56 Nut
10 5493 Lower Suspension Arm Stabilizer Bar Insulator
11 18171 Washer
12 N620469-S2 Bolt
13 N801527-S2 Washer
14 N803771-S56 U-Bolt
15 5486 Stabilizer Bar Bracket
16 N620482-S56 Nut
17 5486 Stabilizer Bar Bracket
A — Tighten to 24-31 Nm
(18-23 Lb-Ft)
B — Tighten to 55-85 Nm
(41-62 Lb-Ft)
C — Tighten to 41-54 Nm
(30-40 Lb-Ft)
===

Trans Cooler;
what type auto trans is in your Bronco?
some E4OD, AOD & C6 Pan Identification & Driver Side pics;
Source: by Kenneth at
http://www.technicalvideos.com/identify_my_transmission.phtml

AOD have 14 pan bolts
E4OD have 20 pan bolts
C6 have 17 pan bolts

E4OD Cooler & Filter Installation pics in a 90
Source: by 90Beater (Topher, Chris) at http://bronco.tophersworld.com/writeup_tranny.htm

AOD Cooler Installation in an http://web.archive.org/web/20090119020858/http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/trans-cooler.html89
Source: by Ryan M
but Pics are gone

AOD Cooler Installation in an 89
Source: by body9599 (Erik D) (he replaced original stock cooler)

"...Replaced the stock cooler with a larger F-250 HD cooler...

...Here you can see the size difference between the two coolers. The new one is twice the size of the stock cooler. You can also see that the brackets are exactly the same as well as the fittings.

Here is the new cooler installed...you can see where the top bolt went (note: was a pain to get that bolt in there as there were no holes on the other side so I could hold it while mounting. Required a couple of magnetic pens, needle nose pliers, and an extra pair of hands.)

AOD Cooler Fitting Locations/Flow Direction; Upper " Pipe Cooler feed/out Lower " Pipe Return/in
Source: by TCI Automotive

==

- look for some maint records or contact a dealer to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership in the past (need VIN); also ask for a Maintenance Schedule.
or on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.
If no maint records are avail; check and replace if needed all filters and fluids. Esp if it is an Auto tranny; fluid level; when at norm op temp; after running thru all gears & reverse; no burnt toast or whitish (water) deposits on dip stick.
Maintenance Schedule (NORMAL) by Chilton Validate @ Ford dealer; see if you should use he Severe Schedule.

do a SELF TEST for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal BroncoJoe at
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-co...mode__threaded
Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first & KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion

 

I like this kids attitude.

As mentioned, sway bars control body roll and are mainly for on-road use. Removing them is fairly simple and some who take their rigs off-road will remove them at the trail and then reinstall them afterwards.

Go with some cheap seat covers for now. You can always upgrade them later when you figure out where you want to go with your restorations/modifications. There are several options for some good seat covers though. I myself went with coverking.com's tactical seat covers. Made of tough ballistic cordura, they repel all dirt and fluids. Very tough and non-staining. Plus mounting stuff on the back of the seats is handy at times. Check out my build thread link in my signature.

If you don't already have one, definitely get a transmission cooler. Maybe even consider an aftermarket filter as well if you plan on towing a lot.

Other tips. Get a remote oil filter setup installed. It will come in handy for oil changes and make the job go much faster and cleaner than it would right now. What it is, is a filter mount and adapter plate that runs oil lines from the stock oil filter location to a place of your choosing, such as the frame rail. Keeps oil from getting everywhere when removing the filter. Upgrade the exhaust to a single cat (catalytic converter) system, unless your local laws require the stock setup. Oh, I see you live in CA. Never mind the exhaust thing.
Do a 6litre tuneup. Replace all spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap/rotor, and spark coil. Replace the air filter and don't let ANYONE tell you that you need to add a cold air intake. The stock intake on the FSB IS a cold air intake. Ford got it right back then. Everybody else was just trying to catch up.

Other than that, buy a Haynes repair manual. Very good material for begginers. If possible, try to get your hands on a factory service manual. Your can find digital copies them on ebay for a decent price. Really comes in handy.

 

As far as maintenance goes you really can ignore everything until it starts making bad noises and then ignore it some more until the noise gets worse. It's not the most efficient way to do things and when you do finally get something fixed you might have to fix other things that got worn out by the broken thing being broken so I don't advise you do this but it works if you're on a tight budget. These trucks can take some serious abuse.

As mentioned, sway bars control body roll and are mainly for on-road use. Removing them is fairly simple and some who take their rigs off-road will remove them at the trail and then reinstall them afterwards.

Does this look like a Jeep forum to you.:twak

Get a remote oil filter setup installed. It will come in handy for oil changes and make the job go much faster and cleaner than it would right now

Don't bother, the money is best put toward other things. Oil changes are quick and easy anyway and give you a chance to notice things under the truck you wouldn't otherwise notice and spot problems before they become problems. You also don't want to lose all your oil because a hose was rubbing on something. By the time you do a remote oil filter right it's not really worth the hassle on a stock truck. I could see it being useful if you needed three extra joints in your arm to change the oil filter but our trucks are really easy and any oil you spill on the truck is a spot that won't rust.

If anything get the right angle adapter and oil cooler cooler off of a 90s 5.0 explorer (which puts your oil filter near the steering gear, making it more easily accessible, not that it wasn't before).

 

yo,
as AFBronco advised;
Buy a HAYNES red cover Ford PICK-UPS & BRONCO 1980-1996

 

Welcome - Ya got the Bronco bug.

Some PICs of your new ride and some thoughts on its overall condition would help the forum help you.

Maintenance is the key to keeping the Bronco on the road and reliable. I start with brakes/rotors/bearings and shocks and replace the shocks with every brake job. Grease U joints and all under body fittings. Then battery, alt and cables are checked. Then compression check as part of tune up - plugs, plug wires, dist cap, rotor and coil - then oil and filters. Vaccum lines need to be checked and or replaced.

Not arguing with you about the need for seat covers and trans cooler, just suggesting a logical order to keep the Bronco keeping you happy. Ask Santa for a tool box....

 

FULLSIZEBRONCO.COM = READ, READ, READ and then, READ SOME MORE!!! :beer

Congrats on the new (2U) ride! Obviously, we love 'em! :rockon

 

I have an E4OD transmission in it right now, but with a busted engine temp gauge I have no way to know if it's overheating. I will post some pictures tomorrow so you guys can have a look and hopefully offer more great advice!

Also, another question. When shifting from any gear to reverse, there is a large clunking sound in the rear end and the whole truck jerks a little. Could this be the transmission mount, or simply the pinion nut in the rear end that is causing this? Any help would be appreciated!

 

For the clunk, try checking your u-joints, specifically the crosses. I've seen the spindle bearings fail in the cups and fall out, letting the cross clunk around in the joint. Replacing a cross isn't a big deal, so check that first. Unless someone has done an awful job rebuilding the rear end, that shouldn't cause the clunking you hear.

 

yo,
Clunk, Driveshaft; "...could be a few things.. U-joints going out on the driveshaft, slip shaft needs greasing or 3rd member is warn and loose. get under and see if there is any side to side movement with the ujoints on the shaft, there shouldnt be any side movement at all; than grease your slip-joint (search) and go from there...

& by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong); Instead of sliding into the t-case like a car driveshaft would into a trans, a Bronco driveshaft normally is two pieces that slide together. The slipshaft is normally covered by a rubber boot in the middle ---; When you check the u-joints as Spiked described, park it on a flat spot, block the wheels & put it in neutral. That way the driveshaft will be free to move if the u-joints are bad..."
Source: by spikedzombies (O' Black Betty) & by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=155807

Slipshaft (aka Slip Yoke, Slip Joint) Greasing by nezzer @ http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95068
Read comments, esp. by Felix "Did everybody take notice to the blue Sharpie at the bottom of the picture? Neezer used it to make reference marks on the driveshaft so the whole thing can be oriented and re-assembled the same way it came out."

The driveshaft slip yoke and transmission output shaft permit fore and aft movement of the driveshaft as the rear axle moves up and down. This provides smooth performance during vehicle operation

U-Joint Inspection:
Prior to checking driveline angularity, inspect the universal joints for proper operation.
Place the vehicle on a frame hoist and rotate the driveshaft (4602) by hand. Check for rough operation or seized universal joints. If the universal joint shows signs of seizure, excessive wear or improper seating, scribe alignment marks on the driveshaft and rear axle companion flange. Remove the driveshaft and remove and replace the universal joint. Install the driveshaft in the marked original position

======
by Ford for the E4OD;
"Harsh Reverse Only;
203 — ELECTRICAL ROUTINE
Powertrain Control System
•Electrical inputs/outputs, vehicle wiring harnesses, powertrain control module, throttle position sensor, vehicle speed sensor, electronic pressure control
Run On-Board Diagnostics. (miesk5 Note, this is self-test for Codes)
Service as required. Clear codes, road test, rerun On-Board Diagnostics.

303 — HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL ROUTINE
Improper Pressures
•High line pressure
Check pressure at line pressure tap. Perform Line Pressure and Stall Speed Tests. Refer to Pressure Chart No. 401 for specification. If high, check the following possible components: main controls, filter assembly and seal.
Refer to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual for diagnosis. Perform Engagement Test
Main Controls
•Bolts not tightened to specification
Retighten bolts to specification.
•Gasket damaged
Inspect for damage and replace.
•Electronic pressure control solenoid stuck or damaged
Perform Electronic Pressure Control Tests outlined in routine
No. 203. Service as required.

•Direct clutch accumulator valve and plunger, engagement control valve, direct clutch accumulator regulator valve, springs — stuck, misassembled, contaminated, damaged
Inspect for damage, contamination. Service as required.

Pump Assembly
•Bolts not tightened to specification
Retighten bolts to specification.
•Gaskets damaged
Inspect for damage and replace.
•Main regulator/booster valve stuck, damaged, misassembled
Inspect for damage. Service as required.

Direct Clutch Assembly
•Assembly
Air check clutch assembly as outlined in this section.
•Seals damaged, missing
Inspect direct clutch assembly for damage. Service as required.
•Stator support seals damaged
•Holes blocked/missing
•Check ball damaged
•Friction elements damaged or missing"

 

Welcome! Get after that clunk right away. As mentioned above u-joints are the likely culprit. If let go too long they can cause some serious damage. Park on flat ground, set the brake, & block the wheels. Engine off. Put the truck in neutral to take any load off of the drivetrain. Crawl under & wiggle/turn the driveshaft. See what moves. It could also be trans/engine mounts.

La Crescenta? You're almost next door. Drop me a pm if you need an extra set of eyes on it.

 

After a good deal of looking around it with my father (a well versed car guy) we are pretty sure it's the spider gears in the rear end. Would it be cheaper to just rip a rear end off a junker and use that, compared to getting it set up and re shimmed, etc.?

 

The spider gears? I don't see how those can be causing any sort of clunking. Not unless they're broken, in which case, you'd be having even more trouble.

It is possible that the pinion nut or the ring gear mounting bolts are loose. Either way, all it would take to fix those problems is some tools and time. Taking apart the rear diff to fix either wouldn't be too bad, but if you do that, you should go ahead and rebuild the diff anyways. Its not as bad as everyone likes to make out. A little math and some careful planning will get you through it with minimal problems, if anyt. Just my 2 cents.

 

AF, are there any links or literature I could use to help me take apart the diff, and instructions on how to tighten them?

 

I would buy a Ford Shop manual for your bronco. It tells you everything you need to know to disassemble and reassemble the diff. You can also find videos on youtube for differential rebuilds and repairs.

Here is the shop manual for your bronco I'd recommend. Its a digital copy, but its far cheaper than the used and abused hard copies which can go for well over $100, and its specific to the model year as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-Ford-T...s_Accessories&fits=Year:1990|Make:Ford|Model:Bronco&hash=item232191de23&vxp=mtr
You should also pick up a Haynes manual from your local parts store, if you haven't done so already. Its a good quick reference on torque values.

As far as tools, a good socket set with deep and shallow well metric and standard sockets and a torque wrench should be all you need.

I've also thought about it some more and the one other thing that could be wrong is your crush sleeve on the pinion gear could be damaged and loose, which means you'll need a new crush sleeve. Go ahead and try torqueing down the pinion nut properly first, but if that doesn't help the clunking, or some new problems come up, you may have to do the rebuild. Just plan on it taking all weekend.

 

Ford shop manuals are awesome. I have one for my 66 Mustang and it's made things a lot easier in many instances. They're especially helpful in more modern cars which aren't as simplified as older cars.

 

They are awesome, thought they can be confusing at times. When I was replacing the spindle bearings on my front axle, the manual was giving me a different bearing from what was on there. See, my bronco had the factory manual hubs on it when I bought it, but as it turns out, it was originally equipped with auto hubs and had be converted using the factory manuals. The spindles are different between auto and manual hubs, which is why a conversion kit is needed. So it really helps to know the history of the truck too, but I was able to figure this out with the shop manual, because it gave part numbers for both and so I was able to solve this little mystery.

BTW, the biggest advantage of getting the Haynes manual is that it has a note section on back so as you make modifications with non-standard parts, you can keep track of that in there and know exactly what's been done and what you need to maintain those non-standard parts, such as part numbers.

 

But learning it in your back yard is by no means impossible, it'll just take a lot more time and effort to do it right.

I don't think the problem is gears though. Rrar ends are that have been good for 200k don't go bad overnight. I'd check the drive shaft and ball joints first. Driving around with no rear drive shaft will tell you if the problem isn't slop in the rear axle.

 

yo firefighterw

Here is the Ford 96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)

8.8 info is same for your year; other exceptions are 3 screw Automatic Locking Hubs,
any OBD II info, and some other stuff

See Section 05-02G: Axle, Integral Carrier, 8.8-Inch Ring Gear

Use it to determine if you will DIY at home or farm some of the repairs out.
GL!