You need to make sure with the throttle closed you are just under 1 volt when you install the new one to.

 

Wow what a great thread! I have an 86 and I just figured out where the TPS is. I want to replace mine because I don't know how old it is but it sounds like you need to align the TB and TPS to function correctly not just replace the TPS, is that about it? I don't see a gasket on your TB is there supposed to be one?

Also, what type of metal is the TB made of, my cooling tubes are rusted. I want to know if these tubes are pressed in and can they be replaced or can I drill/tap in some threads and make them removable? Thanks!

 

Wow what a great thread! I have an 86 and I just figured out where the TPS is. I want to replace mine because I don't know how old it is but it sounds like you need to align the TB and TPS to function correctly not just replace the TPS, is that about it? I don't see a gasket on your TB is there supposed to be one?
Also, what type of metal is the TB made of, my cooling tubes are rusted. I want to know if these tubes are pressed in and can they be replaced or can I drill/tape in some threads and make them removable? Thanks!

1. 10th picture (after the spray cleaner) showsd the TB gasket. take it off before you clean the TB.
2. I beleive some models you have to align correctly...nt sure if the 86 is for sure but I followed the directions just in case (marking the position)
3. I think the TB is made of cast aluminum
4. The cooling tubes are not aluminum...from the looks of my pics maybe they will screw out or gently pull out??? Maybe someone else has an answer to that. Are the tubes rusted on the outside? Holes in them? You could sand, prime, paint and if you wanted use a little POR15...but that is extreme and assuming that they are not rusted through. Good luck

 

Hey Xris 86 buddy thanks for the info, the bottom tube is working but it's condition is marginal and we all know that it's only a matter of time before something goes. I like to do preventative maintenance so the system is happier. I did a drill & tap with my cooling temp sensor so life is much easier if I have to repair being it is a bitch next the distributor so I don't have that problem any more. TB is aluminium OK, I don't want to spend $2-300 for a new TB so I'll look thru other threads to see if there are other tube solutions. Do you think they are Ford products? I'll check and if I found a company that makes them I'll post it. For the TPS replacement, I guess it wouldn't hurt to read the Haynes book right? THANKS BRO!

 

Excellent write up (and pics) Xris

I'm sure a lot of us 86ers are facing similar troubles.

Question for you; When you say

" Rotate the throttle to the full-open position and the sensor should increase voltage to 4.0-5.0 volts. The maximum voltage I got was 1.85 volts. So I was for sure this must be the problem"

Surely you don't mean with the engine on ?

Thanks again

Sixlitre

I'm having a starting and running issue lately. It's kinda crept up on me because I'm driving the old gal so little.

I have to use quick start to get her going. She just rolls over like she's getting no gas, until I shoot a little alcohol down her throats.

After she's warmed up she's sluggish at all stages of part throttle, like there's not enough gas getting to it, but goes gangbusters at wide open throttle.

To complicate things I busted that rod on top of the throttle body while fiddling around under that stupid plastic cover hat. Wouldn't you know it, the Ford replacement is plastic !!!!!!!!!

I'll be looking to score a real metal/plastic one, like in your pics asap at a junkyard.

 

I hate when stuff like that happens when you're trying to be careful so as not to spend extra money when fixing a problem. Today I sprayed STP TB cleaner while she was running just to make sure it's a little cleaner and it seems to run a bit better. I think the cooling tubes on the TB may screw out, but I'm researching to make sure. I think I understand the TPS better, the throttle plates need to be closed before you install a new TPS so it will open to the right angle.

I have learned so much about my Bronco thru this site and I found it by accident. A plethera of information and all the money you can save by doing most of it yourself. I'm still laboring with my 02 sensor, what a bitch to get out. My buddy recommended Aero Croil deep penetrating to soak into the threads, who knows how long this one has been in there.

What about Sea Foam deep penetrtating? I figure anything to make it run better, gas prices are coming down, only $2.33 per gal today OUCH.

 

Excellent write up (and pics) Xris

I'm sure a lot of us 86ers are facing similar troubles.

Question for you; When you say

" Rotate the throttle to the full-open position and the sensor should increase voltage to 4.0-5.0 volts. The maximum voltage I got was 1.85 volts. So I was for sure this must be the problem"

Surely you don't mean with the engine on ?

Thanks again

Sixlitre

Correct...In thought I had mentioned that but I'll have to look over the thread and do a possible edit.

Sluggish at mid-throttle...do you ever get bucking/hesitation at crusing speeds? Could be the TPS. I would do the electrical test or run the codes to find out. Six...its nice to see your still around!

 

Little contribution to this great thread... if your testing it before pulling it:

Hope that helps with any other testing questions. :shrug

 

Great close ups Pepe! Question though...how do you get a proper voltage check if the TPS is not connected to an electrical source? The plug is unplugged from the rest of the path...haynes suggests backprobing so there is that electronic stimulus. Let me know...Thanks Pepe!

 

OK I called Power Ford and they told me the cooling tubes in the TB are pressed in. So if anyone has actual experience in changing this tubes out please post. The only solution I can think of is to tap, thread and add new plumbing which would maker future repairs a snap as you wouldn't have to take off the TB the next time around and it's a whole lot cheaper then dropping $3-400 bucks for a new TB vs $1.00 for plumbing parts and engineering.

I keep forgetting to ask this question, what mm size is the stock TB for the 1986?

 

The test is not an accurate one by any means.
I was only testing current to verify the unit could still move the juice. :toothless

 

OK I called Power Ford and they told me the cooling tubes in the TB are pressed in. So if anyone has actual experience in changing this tubes out please post. The only solution I can think of is to tap, thread and add new plumbing which would maker future repairs a snap as you wouldn't have to take off the TB the next time around and it's a whole lot cheaper then dropping $3-400 bucks for a new TB vs $1.00 for plumbing parts and engineering.

I keep forgetting to ask this question, what mm size is the stock TB for the 1986?

Get to a junkyard

find a seized throttle body(they all seize when they sit) and offer the yard guy $25

Go home, clean and unseize it and away you go !

Sixlitre

 

Thanks Sixlitre, certainly that's an option I will consider but then the only problem is, can I find one where the cooling tubes are in better shape otherwise I'm right back where I started with the rust etc. I will check around the salvage yards out here and see what's available, this stuff doesn't last long out here, you know everything gets picked clean. Tapping threads in isn't the most difficult thing to do either so it's just a matter of time well spent for me. Thanks!

 

While we're talking about cleaning and testing TB's etc. I came across this product today at Kragen. Berryman-B12 Chemtool for gas, injection, carb, oil $4.29 a can. Has anyone heard of or used this stuff, kinda looks and sounds like Sea Foam, $5.99 a can? PLease post. Thanks!

 

B12 Chemtool!

+1 for the Chemtool :thumbup

 

While we're talking about cleaning and testing TB's etc. I came across this product today at Kragen. Berryman-B12 Chemtool for gas, injection, carb, oil $4.29 a can. Has anyone heard of or used this stuff, kinda looks and sounds like Sea Foam, $5.99 a can? PLease post. Thanks!

Blow the 4.29 and let us know what y'all thank

Sixlitre

 

www.berrymanproducts.com, this website has many automotive products just like Sea Foam or any other auto products that have been discussed on many of the threads. Anyone can check it out and see if there are products worth trying. Good luck!

 

I've used it...I think it is similar to Sea Foam...I used the product to do some scrubbing.

 

Tank - Check out Fordfuelinjection.com for the appropriate readings. I think they are on there. If I remember correct it should be around .90-1.00. Check the site.

Did a little checking .50-1.0 volts. You may have to adjust your tps position slightly. Check your haynes.

 

I'm trying to dail everything in before Smogorama at the end of this week.
I have a spare TB on the bench with the TPS still on and I'm trying to learn how to probe for voltage on the blade angle.

I have a Craftsman digital multimeter #82082 but I'm not sure which setting to use to see .95v closed to 4.5-5.0v WOT.
So which setting do I use, V-DC, V-AC, A-DC or OHM? I'm thinking V-DC with the Haynes by my side ~

This is my least favorite part, it's all greek or I'm dyslexic ~ :banghead

Thanks ~ :thumbup

 

Set the DVOM to read VDC. Attach the leads to it properly (I'm not even going to explain this one). Ground the black lead to a very good, steady, SOLID connection; alligator clips would be excellent for this. Push a metal clothespin through the green lead (I think :scratchhe I should know this, I just did it! lol ), then measure the voltage off of that. The trick is to make sure that the pin is conductive and making excellent contact with both the conductor and the probe. You should be able to dial in your TPS voltage. I usually suggest folks to set it to ~0.94V with the key on and engine off. This is a safe distance from 1.0V, and will allow for meter error, connection imperfections, voltage fluctuations, etc.

 

sigEpBlue:
I've read this thread and studied this thing so many times I have the concept down but poking around wasn't producing anything.
On my DVOM, V-DC there are 5 settings from top to bottom they range from 1000, 200, 20, 2000m,200m and the instructions say start with the highest setting and work down until you get results. I have the plug in probes so I'll work on this today until I get it right. It's begining to make more sense but I've never liked the electrical diagnosis part, sorry for being retarded ~ lol lol

Thanks Brother ~ :thumbup

 

Hey Koss - I tried looking back to find out what setting I used...I think I have close to the same meter as you also! If my old man memory serves me correct it was the V-DC setting 20. Good luck brother!

 

Practicing today on my benched TB with the multimeter, probing the TPS connector but still not getting any readings and I've switched to every setting in V-DC, DVOM is brand new. The TPS was on there when it came from "scrappy86" so no matter what it should show some kind of a reading good or bad, no?

I've cleaned the TB carefully and thoroughly using TB cleaner only and lubing springs and linkage so everything operates fine. I even managed to scribe it and get the TPS sensor screws loosened without moving it with a tiny bit of PB Buster and a large phillips.

Using the probes (red/black) either inside the connector or grounding the black one I'm not getting a reaction ~

What am I missing here?

Thanks ~ :thumbup

 

Practicing today on my benched TB with the multimeter, probing the TPS connector but still not getting any readings and I've switched to every setting in V-DC, DVOM is brand new. The TPS was on there when it came from "scrappy86" so no matter what it should show some kind of a reading good or bad, no?
I've cleaned the TB carefully and thoroughly using TB cleaner only and lubing springs and linkage so everything operates fine. I even managed to scribe it and get the TPS sensor screws loosened without moving it with a tiny bit of PB Buster and a large phillips.

Using the probes (red/black) either insdie the connector or grounding the black one I'm not getting a reaction ~

What am I missing here?

Thanks ~ :thumbup

Are you saying that this thing (TB) is not hooked up to any power source? No completed elctrical path from the perspective of the TB and electrical system? I think that maybe your problem. If this thing is just sitting on the bench...no input, then there would be no path to measure closed to WOT.

Somone please correct me if I'm wrong and Koss let me know if this is/or is not the case. You may want to test it on the TB that is in your truck.

 

If I disconnect the TPS on the truck the sensor wouldn't have any power to it only the harness side would if the key was turned on. The multimeter is battery operated for power source if the probes are inserted into the connector, I understand you can test for continuity when everything is connected but the only way you can adjust the TPS for the voltage setting is to take it off the truck, losen the 2 screws and turn that little dial in the center of the sensor that's attached to the blade. If the TB is on the bench with the TPS sensor attached I still should be able to probe the TPS sensor connector with the multimeter to see where it's at, no?

Otherwise, once you take the TB off the truck how would you know how to adjust the angle of the blade for proper V. setting?


I also have a question about one of your threads in the very begining but I'll have to copy the dialog and post it next, sorry!

Thanks ~ :thumbup

 

Xris:

This dialog is in the begining between the 14 & 15th picture regarding the actual replacement with a new sensor, after scribing.

"Engage the tanges of the sensor with the throttle shaft blade, then rotate it clockwise to align the reference marks before installing the screws."

I don't quite understand this part completely ~


Thanks, sorry for being so dense on this ~ :thumbup

 

A quote from my Chilton's manual:

"The TP Sensor has two versions, an adjustable and a non-adjustable; the difference being elongated mounting holes that allow the rotory sensor to be turned slightly to adjust the output voltage. The rotary TP sensor with round mounting holes are not adjustable".


JKossarides, it goes on to say:

"On 5.0L and 5.8L engines, position the TP sensor so that the pigtail points toward the IAC valve".

"Slide the rotary tangs into position over the shaft blade, then rotate the TP sensor CLOCKWISE only to the installed position. Failure to follow this step may result in high idle speeds for 5.0L and 5.8L engines".

I hope this helps.

 

Yep! My haynes was not specific in regard to the variability in TPS. I found out by installing the new one and reading other posts that mine was not adjustable afterward. The instruciton given in my thread is for the adjustable TPS.

Thanks Seattle FSB for clarifying.